S60 Air Con: Air Conditioning not working

[Paul240480]

Gas it. The machines now suck out any old remaining gas, then vacuum test for leaks before filling up to the correct level / pressure . If they detect a problem during it shuts down and prints out an error code or something. Kwak-fit used to do this and if a problem was detected you didn't pay! Not sure if this is still the case?
If once gassed it still refuses to engage you may well be told the compressor has had it. It you get to that stage, then it's time to check the gap on the clutch with feeler gauges . If I recall it should be 0.3-05 of a mm. If larger (with wear) the magnet won't be able to pull it in. Mine was on 0.8mm. I followed a cheap fix from Matthews Volvo Site to wind some wire in between the clutch and the 'spoke things'. The wire pushes the clutch inwards. In my case back to 0.3mm it's been running fine ever since. This was on my 96' 850, but the compressor looks tha same as the one on my 2004 v70.
Good luck.
I have some pics somewhere .

[bogart]

I fitted a replacement on my 2001 V70 last week. Before fitting found clutch air gap to be 0.8mm. Take off the clutch plate and remove one or more spacers to drop the gap down. I installed with a gap of 0.3mm and is now working fine.

[blueacid]

Originally Posted by Paul240480

Gas it. The machines now suck out any old remaining gas, then vacuum test for leaks before filling up to the correct level / pressure . If they detect a problem during it shuts down and prints out an error code or something. Kwak-fit used to do this and if a problem was detected you didn't pay! Not sure if this is still the case?
If once gassed it still refuses to engage you may well be told the compressor has had it. It you get to that stage, then it's time to check the gap on the clutch with feeler gauges . If I recall it should be 0.3-05 of a mm. If larger (with wear) the magnet won't be able to pull it in. Mine was on 0.8mm. I followed a cheap fix from Matthews Volvo Site to wind some wire in between the clutch and the 'spoke things'. The wire pushes the clutch inwards. In my case back to 0.3mm it's been running fine ever since. This was on my 96' 850, but the compressor looks tha same as the one on my 2004 v70.
Good luck.
I have some pics somewhere .

Went to Kwik Fit as it's close to where I work. Without prompting they confirmed the same as you: their machine first pumps out then performs a pressure test. At that point if the pressure test passes it will regas (for £50). If it fails the pressure test then no charge (and of course the invitation for help with the problem).

Waiting and seeing, they'll call in a bit to let me know how it gets on.

[Paul240480]

Cool, fingers crossed👍

[blueacid]

Originally Posted by Paul240480

Cool, fingers crossed👍

It worked! I've cold air conditioning now. All it took was the fated regas.

Wonder how long it will work for.. I can't help but suspect that there is a slow leak somewhere; too slow for the machine to detectdetect!

Regards,
A very cynical blueacid

[Paul240480]

The gas has a dye in it.... So you can SEE a leak. The stuff in my 850 is electric green, don't ask me how I know lol.

[60041]

It is worth remembering that the circulation of the refrigerant keeps all the seals lubricated and supple, this goes a long way to preventing leaks: it is for that reason that the manufacturers recommend that the system is switched on for at least 1/2 an hour each week.
The cost of a re-gas, or worse a new compressor, is much higher than the small amount of fuel used in leaving the system switched on permanently.

[blueacid]

Originally Posted by 60041

It is worth remembering that the circulation of the refrigerant keeps all the seals lubricated and supple, this goes a long way to preventing leaks: it is for that reason that the manufacturers recommend that the system is switched on for at least 1/2 an hour each week.
The cost of a re-gas, or worse a new compressor, is much higher than the small amount of fuel used in leaving the system switched on permanently.

Oh, entirely agree! I'll leave it on all the time to be honest (just in 'auto' mode, then set the temperature). If I'm honest, the orange light on the AC button would irritate me compared to the paler green one. The fact it helps is just an added bonus.

..my problem was that I test drove in mid October and then bought in November. So I wasn't really in a position to test the air con and know for sure it was broken. Now it works I know how it felt when broken, but.. it's tough to know! You can definitely hear the engine revs dip slightly when the compressor cuts in at idle, so if anyone else is test driving then listen out for this at idle. If you can, set the temp dials to their coldest and hit the 'auto' button. Open the bonnet and look at the compressor (bottom most of the serpentine belt, just below the alternator). You should see the centre of the pulley spinning. If it's stationary and stays that way for more than 20-30 seconds then the system isn't cutting in for whatever reason.

I read it wouldn't cut in below about freezing point, but above that it should run - if only to dehumidify the incoming air.

[OvlovS70]

Hello,
I echo the sentiments above, use the system minimum once a week all year round and it will run great.
A very small amout of gas is lost every year as it escapes naturally.
My '70 at 16 years had what I believe to be its first ever refill last summer. So I went to the dealer for my regas, I am hoping it will last a few years again.
Cheers

[Flotown Tank]

One way to visualize the clutch working is to paint a line across the surface with a paint marker, something like fluorescent yellow or orange.