slightly rough idle. Revs drop when using washer etc

[griston64]

Originally Posted by LPTJoe

Or buy a multimeter for £5 and have the comfort of owning one for future testing.... Seems like a no-brainer to me. The alternator should be running 14V or more with the engine running, test it by touching both battery terminals as the car runs with electronic accessories (Stereo/lights etc) on, plenty of vids on youtube to show you how.

RE fuel filters, on your car it should be in the cradle underneath the car just next to where the second fuel pump would be on earlier cars with the second fuel pump (Although IIRC your car's a later model so no second pump, just the filter there)

On a side note, small amounts of drift in idle speed is normal on these cars and if you're looking for a glass smooth idle like the ones you get with modern coilpack/hi tech ECU driven motors you're going to be looking for a long time




I'd recommend a good 'stage zero' tune up if the car's new to you...

Replace all filters including fuel and change the oil. Take off your separator box, fill it with brake cleaner, slosh it about, blast it out with even more brake cleaner, clean all of the associated pipework/nipples too, replace o ring





at bottom of separator and re-assemble. Make sure dizzy/rotor/leads/plugs are good, replace if not. Clean and re-install ICV. Check CPS and replace if wiring looks iffy, replace the CTS and possibly lambda too with genuine Bosch parts if any doubts about them and possibly even if you have no doubts as a matter of preventative maintenance. Check timing/replace belt if due and flush/refil coolant with blue EG so as the CTS gets a reliable reading and stays clean. Final step is pull fuse number 1 for a minute to allow the ECU to reset to factory settings and get used to the changes you've made.

^That little lot should all be achievable for under £150-£200 (The cost of a decent service at a garage) and provided you don't have any esoteric wiring/relay/fuse faults should see your motor as good as new.

HTH.

Cheers for all advice. I'm working my way through all said stuff. I will report back if I ever achieve a silky smooth idle Off shortly to buy multimeter Joe

[griston64]

Multimeter purchased for the princely sum of £8.00. Tested and got 12.6 from battery and 14.2 with car running. Switched everything on and it stayed the same so that would indicate alternator is ok ?

Throttle body and idle valve are going to be cleaned next and then PCV etc

I've already changed oil and filter and coolant. Also air filter. Still got in tank pump to do along with both aux belts, timing belt,tensioner and front crank seal.

Need to find some other things to test with my multimeter now

[LPTJoe]

Originally Posted by griston64

Multimeter purchased for the princely sum of £8.00. Tested and got 12.6 from battery and 14.2 with car running. Switched everything on and it stayed the same so that would indicate alternator is ok ?
:

Yup, that sounds as though the alternator is working as it should.

[360beast]

I cleaned out my PCV a month or so ago, there was solid carbon build up and lots of it! I used degreaser, I filled it about half up, blocked the holes with my fingers and gave it a shake. I repeated this until it stopped coming out with chunks of carbon. Then I washed it all out with brake cleaner and to finish it off I used an air line and blew it all out and even more carbon shot out!!! The hardest part was getting the bolt back in that holds it down which is used to hold the wiring loom down.

[griston64]

I was out for most of the day in her yesterday with a fair bit of motorway driving. Gave her a good bit of welly through the gears and a few spells at high speed at just over 70

I'm not sure if it's my imagination but she seems to be running so much better today Smoother acceleration and it also feels like better gear changes. She has been sitting for the best part of five years so I'm thinking the 600 or so miles I've done in the last month is doing her good.

Here;s hoping it continues

[STUART 9470]

Originally Posted by LPTJoe

Or buy a multimeter for £5 and have the comfort of owning one for future testing.... Seems like a no-brainer to me. The alternator should be running 14V or more with the engine running, test it by touching both battery terminals as the car runs with electronic accessories (Stereo/lights etc) on, plenty of vids on youtube to show you how.

RE fuel filters, on your car it should be in the cradle underneath the car just next to where the second fuel pump would be on earlier cars with the second fuel pump (Although IIRC your car's a later model so no second pump, just the filter there)

On a side note, small amounts of drift in idle speed is normal on these cars and if you're looking for a glass smooth idle like the ones you get with modern coilpack/hi tech ECU driven motors you're going to be looking for a long time

I'd recommend a good 'stage zero' tune up if the car's new to you...

Replace all filters including fuel and change the oil. Take off your separator box, fill it with brake cleaner, slosh it about, blast it out with even more brake cleaner, clean all of the associated pipework/nipples too, replace o ring at bottom of separator and re-assemble. Make sure dizzy/rotor/leads/plugs are good, replace if not. Clean and re-install ICV. Check CPS and replace if wiring looks iffy, replace the CTS and possibly lambda too with genuine Bosch parts if any doubts about them and possibly even if you have no doubts as a matter of preventative maintenance. Check timing/replace belt if due and flush/refil coolant with blue EG so as the CTS gets a reliable reading and stays clean. Final step is pull fuse number 1 for a minute to allow the ECU to reset to factory settings and get used to the changes you've made.

^That little lot should all be achievable for under £150-£200 (The cost of a decent service at a garage) and provided you don't have any esoteric wiring/relay/fuse faults should see your motor as good as new.

HTH.

I would also think about changing the Fuel Pump and Suppression Relays if the car is new to you and has done around 150 k

[griston64]

Car has done 125,000. I have a new fuel pump ready to be fitted when it warms up a bit.

What suppression relay should I be changing /

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by griston64

Car has done 125,000. I have a new fuel pump ready to be fitted when it warms up a bit.

What suppression relay should I be changing /

Cheers

None yet Mark! Have a look near your coolant expansion tank, should be at least one 40A relay clipped to a bracket near it (2 if it has A/C and an electric cooling fan in front of the rad) and if there's only one, verify that's the correct one by disconnecting it - the car should not start.
Some cars had this relay mounted on the L/H inner wig near the suspension turret instead.

Reconnecting it should enable it to start. Now you know where it is, that's the one if it gives trouble.

They come up on ebay from time to time, mainly secondhand as they don't appear to be available new anymore

However, generic 40A 4-pin relays are available, if you're handy with a set of crimping pliers for "W" crimps, by a standard, generic 40A 4-pin relay and socket/connectors and renew the relay with that.
It's a job on my list to be done so if you want to do it sooner rather than later, give me a shout and i'll find the right bits and post the links.

[griston64]

Cleaned throttle body this morning. It wasn't really dirty at all though.

Also cleaned PCV hoses which were also very clean. Didn't do catch can but assuming that will be ok given how clean hoses were

This afternoons job is going to be idle control valve

[griston64]

From a song from the 80's ? Whilst cleaning my idle control valve and chaining my plugs today ( what a PITA that plug is nearest the distributor !! ) I found an electrical connector hanging below the water temp sensor which doesn't seem to have a home ?? Anyone know what it is ?

Car does seem to be running better after plug change and idle valve clean

plugs.jpg

Idle control valve 1.JPG

valve 2.JPG

whats this 3.JPG

whats this 4.JPG