Engine: 2.1 Carb B21A: Water pump pains!

[CarloB]

Originally Posted by 360beast

Ahhhhh good old PPS, AKA Chinese junk, perfectly good raw materials churned out as utter cr@p!

Get an SKF pump and genuine Volvo seals as the PPS stuff is junk, every single time I've used a PPS part it has failed very quickly or doesn't fit, such as the fuel flap hinges available for the 7/900 series, they're too small so the flap just falls off.

You will be surprised just how much is still available from Volvo and if you go through FRF Volvo in Swansea they give you trade discount so it is usually cheaper than the aftermarket junk.

Unfortunately some of their bits are now made in China and some bits are just poor quality such as the genuine waterpumps which don't last but are made in the UK! They look like someone has robbled up tinfoil to make a waterpump.

The head should be perfectly flat where it seals with the waterpump so that says to me the coolant leaking has corroded the head over time. Potentially you may need to take the cylinder head off and have it skimmed or even welded up and skimmed.

Thanks, very much, that coolant must be historically used then. I think it only had water in it when I drained it.

I thought the castings were poor at first, when I saw the state of the flange where the thermostat housing mounts, and also the state of the bottom hose mounting on the old pump. Ordering a new SKF pump now from AutoDoc. Hopefully I'll be able to get a seal on that joint otherwise I'll be in trouble (with my wife)

[Bob Meadows]

If the corrosion isn't too bad then a skim of J.B.Weld may help:~
It tends to slump so may have to be supported until it reaches the harder putty stage etc. (masking tape is fine)

This product can be sanded back to obtain the flat surface required- inert to all substances found on a car & lasting.
(Use a mirror to aid the hidden areas)

I always use a light coating of sealant on gaskets-Hylomar is fine or similar, don't overdo it though.
The pump should have a couple of elongated stud holes (number escapes me)
These are the first to get nipped up as you raise the pump towards the block, I use a short length of wood ('88 240) the other fasteners follow the above once the pump is in the correct position and the rubber gasket is properly compressed.

Hope it helps- well done for keeping another on the road!
Regards Bob.

[CarloB]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

If the corrosion isn't too bad then a skim of J.B.Weld may help:~
It tends to slump so may have to be supported until it reaches the harder putty stage etc. (masking tape is fine)

This product can be sanded back to obtain the flat surface required- inert to all substances found on a car & lasting.
(Use a mirror to aid the hidden areas)

I always use a light coating of sealant on gaskets-Hylomar is fine or similar, don't overdo it though.
The pump should have a couple of elongated stud holes (number escapes me)
These are the first to get nipped up as you raise the pump towards the block, I use a short length of wood ('88 240) the other fasteners follow the above once the pump is in the correct position and the rubber gasket is properly compressed.

Hope it helps- well done for keeping another on the road!
Regards Bob.

Thanks Bob, was just thinking to myself if that might be an option.

[Chris1Roll]

That is exactly what I would do.
In fact I repaired the pitting where the thermostat mounts on mine with JB weld - there are some pictures on my thread in the 700 section.
I'd have no qualms about doing the same where the water pump seals to the bottom of the head if it came to it.
I reckon a bit of cling film over a block of hardwood or similar and wedged in place overnight would deal with any slumping (and not end up glued in place!) then tidy it up and sand smooth once hardened.

[Clifford Pope]

With a new pump there may still be casting burrs inside the slotted fixing holes that limit the pump's movement.
Have you tried fitting the pump without the top hat seal and tested the movement of the pump to check that the gap closes sufficiently to squeeze the seal?

I found this once, and had to enlarge the slot with a small round file to get the full movement. Then fit the seal, and test with a thin strip of card that it is being squeezed hard when you lever the pump. There should be slot space to spare when tight, not bottoming at the end of the slot.

[CarloB]

Thank guys, there doesn't seem to be sufficient movement in the pump with or without the seal to close the gap.

I'm waiting for a new genuine Volvo top hat seal to arrive in the post and also an SKF water pump as recommended earlier.

Going to give that a go before going down the JB Weld route!