|
700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
Information |
|
B230FD Problems :)Views : 8443 Replies : 156Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jan 30th, 2020, 09:36 | #11 | ||
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 13:02
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
New leads didn't resolve the problem. Meanwhile during the fitting of the new leads, you had mixed up the firing order on the dizzy cap. You then fitted (on my suggestion) a new ignition amp module and on Ruby37s suggestion, rechecked the order of the leads. Hey presto, it started! I then advised you to do what is in the post above. You say you haven't done it. What you do say is you took it for a test drive. You haven't removed fuse #1 since. Where does the contact cleaner come in? Quote:
However the ECU will have learned some very strange fuel trims as a result of the flooding caused by the non-start. For this reason, you neeed to remove fuse #1 for a few minutes to clear the fault codes and fuel trims from the ECU memory. Then and only then, cnyou take it for another run and check to see if everything is as it should be. If it isn't by then, there is another problem.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
||
Jan 30th, 2020, 10:56 | #12 | |
Member
Last Online: Mar 15th, 2020 18:15
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Kristiansand
|
Quote:
The distributor changed position... so I changed the distributor 180degrees and it fired right up. |
|
Jan 30th, 2020, 11:09 | #13 | |
Member
Last Online: Mar 15th, 2020 18:15
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Kristiansand
|
Quote:
|
|
Jan 30th, 2020, 11:57 | #14 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 13:02
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Then there is a mechanical problem somewhere. You need to check the cam timing, the timing belt tension and ensure the belt hasn't jumped. Also ensure the drive dog between the camshaft and distributor hasn't failed. It's impossible to fit the rotor or distributor cap 180 degrees out because they are keyed so they won't fit.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Jan 30th, 2020, 18:22 | #15 | |
Member
Last Online: Mar 15th, 2020 18:15
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Kristiansand
|
Quote:
Worn rotor/distributor Last edited by Volvo940GL; Jan 30th, 2020 at 18:52. |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Volvo940GL For This Useful Post: |
Feb 1st, 2020, 17:40 | #16 | |
Member
Last Online: Mar 15th, 2020 18:15
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Kristiansand
|
Quote:
Hey, I think the butterfly valve on the TPS is clogged. But the potentiometer sensor I have to loosen a little bit and then adjust the tps? 0,15mm clearance? |
|
Feb 1st, 2020, 17:45 | #17 |
Member
Last Online: Mar 15th, 2020 18:15
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Kristiansand
|
Timing strobe shows cyl4 is misfiring. On low rpm.
High rpm the engine runs fine. But on idle tachometer bounces up and down. I could try cleaning the throttle. I also read this article. May I try this? [[[[Here's what I just did 30 minutes ago to correct my drooping idle. I simply adjusted the TPS sensor screw and the idle raced up to 2000 rpm at first and when I put the car in gear it went down to 1000rpm but the idle was smooth and consistent. So I figured I may have adjusted it too much until I took it for a spin....and WOW!!! :mrgreen: I can feel a BIG difference in powerband and giddy-up and as I stopped and started from redlights the idle finally settled at 750-800rpm which was WAY better than jumping from 200rpm to 500rpm and back down to 300rpm and up again to 700rpm. such a annoying thing!!! :x ...but now.. the idle is smooth at 750-800rpm in gear with my foot on the brake and it holds at 1000rpm steady when the I shift the car into park. It's like the smallest Torx bit ever, but there is room for adjustment on the side of the TPS sensor bracket. I adjusted mine all the way out, which was only about 1mm. but it fixed my rattling idle!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: So if you are still having idle issues I would definitely try adusting the TPS sensor screw as part of tracking down the problem]]]]]] |
Feb 1st, 2020, 18:30 | #18 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 13:02
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
It's two microswitches, one for idle and the other for WOT (Wide Open Throttle) but the WOT microswitch isn't used on turbo models. The idle microswitch should be adjusted so it is on when the throttle butterfly is in the idle position but only after checking that the base idle speed (with AICV disconnected and blcoked off) is 500rpm. For this you will have to sort the misfire on #4 cylinder first.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
Feb 1st, 2020, 18:31 | #19 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 13:02
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
Feb 1st, 2020, 18:35 | #20 |
Member
Last Online: Mar 15th, 2020 18:15
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Kristiansand
|
|
Tags |
b230fd, faultcodes, help and advice, lean and rich, rough idle |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|