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LPG, CNG & LNG - General Info and Issues Share experiences and problems

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Full time LPG

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Old Jun 20th, 2010, 10:45   #11
Mike B
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Talking Lpg

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Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
If You tell me what make and type of LPG system you have I can explain how to start on LPG
Hi Dai and folks.
As most of you know my 740GLE constant inj did its petrol sys in nearly 2 years ago now , and has run only on LPG now [ no choice at mo ] althrough the winter we just had was a good trial ??
Must repair it some time as I still have petrol in tank , waste ugh.
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Old Jun 20th, 2010, 23:49   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B View Post
Hi Dai and folks.
As most of you know my 740GLE constant inj did its petrol sys in nearly 2 years ago now , and has run only on LPG now [ no choice at mo ] althrough the winter we just had was a good trial ??
Must repair it some time as I still have petrol in tank , waste ugh.
Regards
Mike B
It'll be well past its best at 2 years old, the unleaded staff starts to lose its oomph at 6 weeks in a vented tank.
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Old Jun 21st, 2010, 08:45   #13
Mike B
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Default petrol

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Originally Posted by 940_Turbo View Post
It'll be well past its best at 2 years old, the unleaded staff starts to lose its oomph at 6 weeks in a vented tank.
I know , but will still burn in a hot eng up to about 5 years [ like parafin ]
After that only any good for cleaning parts .
Oh well.
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Mike B
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Old Jun 21st, 2010, 19:42   #14
31satara
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Classicswede - My system always starts on petrol then I switch it straight to LPG by blipping the accelerator. I would be interested to know how to start it on LPG just in case I have any problems with the petrol side of things. The system was supplied by Mike and fitted to a different 740 before I transferred it to my 1990 B200E. It is an open mixer system but I don’t know the exact details – the switch has the bottom LED flashing on start up, then when revved and switches to LPG it goes solid. (Alternatively the switch can be used to change to petrol (solid red LED) – either before starting or whilst running on LPG). Hope that makes sense!
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Old Jun 21st, 2010, 22:16   #15
classicswede
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For that switch to start on gas do the following,


Turn on ignition
switch from gas to petrol
switch back to petrol (gas LED should be on solid now)
crank over engine
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Old Jun 21st, 2010, 22:21   #16
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Simple as that! Thanks for the help.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2010, 09:07   #17
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Just to add my experiences. I ran my old 740 for many (at least 3) years on gas only with no probs in extreme cold weather. My son runs an lpg pug 306, this never has petrol in it (skinflint that he is), the pug just went faultlesly through the extreme winter we've had this year. On very cold mornings he goes and starts/runs the car for 5 mins then comes back in for a little while before finally leaving. Not only does this warm the engine/oil alowing normal lubrication and reduced wear, but also the heaters work straight away! This is good practise for all lpg or not. I also would add that its worth running on petrol now and then just to keep the petrol system in working order. It's nice to know that its there as an option should you run out of lpg miles from a fill up, or develop a problem with the lpg system its nice to have a backup.

Dave.
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 20:58   #18
BrianH
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I had my 245 GL converted at 155k for £1354, and it paid for itself in 22 months. On petrol it did 27mpg on LPG 22. Taking advantge of the price advantage I calculated this was equivilent to 38mpg.

I installed the Kenlowe Hotstart before I had the convertion and the Groot evaporator then took that place next to the bulk head.

With Kenlows diagrames, I reinstalled the Hotstart to the right and below the battery and figured out the hot water tubing. Over the years I noticed Kenlowe changed the thermostatic switching as the unit went obslete (square ali body unit). (Now a 240v based light inline cylinder).

This switching unit allowed the car internal heater to be switched in at 85 degees C and to internally heat the car and defrost it. Great to leave those people scaping behind in the morning, nice and toasty too.......Only, it did'nt always work, particularly during January and February, this year. Due given Kenlowe they repaired it FoC, but admitted it could not get the internal car heater circuate to switch in......Brain wave.....Having played with these thermostats which switch in and out at specific temperatures to make the thing work, they did work, no problem.

So it must be the whole unit was loosing or not getting to the critical temperature to switch the unit to heat the car internally.

So I insulated the unit with thick blockes of polystyrene...........It worked.....But not always. The system seams to be sensitive to the level of water in the header.

Anyway this to say the car runs and starts, 99.9% LPG in all weathers. But I am on the south coast UK. Say min -10C.

As for the filter. I had it serviced once and the guy said he had never found a reason to change the filters, ever! I did inspect mine on a few occations and found a 'loose' magnet at the bottom of the bowl. Never found it dirty though.

A few years ago changed the whole filter unit, trying to eliminate an eratic idle. It seemed to help, but it was only a series of things I tried.

Idle is now 900 RPM, and the best so far in 10 years. But the preheat helps through to full warm up through to the oil, which is a fully synthetic 0/30. 436K and going strong.

BrianH
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 09:34   #19
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Hi Brian,

I asume you have a carb 245? Did you actualy track down what was causing the erratic idle or was it more a combination of a few things. Air leaks are the most common reason.

Is your tank in place of the spare wheel or somewhere else?
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 21:57   #20
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Hi Classicswede,

Engine B200E open loop. The estate has a 100 ltr carpet covered tank.

Tyre pressures up to 40 psi when towing a Baily 460/4 at 75%.

The last post was too long in detail and crashed here's the shorter version.

Electrics essential.
Timing set to best idle, could be + 5 degrees on standard as LPG 115 octane. Not tried!
Tappets not critical.
Plugs not critical. 4, 3, 1 electode. Standard Volvo OK. Hot/cool?
Pot pressures 11/12 OK.
Back fires destroy pastic inlets.
Back fire valve obtained, yet to be intalled.
An exhaust valve will burn sooner or later (mine at 405K then big back fires!!)
IWEMA is a very good source of LPG information. Used to refurb, Groot with kit at £34.

The holy Grail is elusive.

BrianH
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