She is alive! But have a couple of issues with 544

[lelshaddai]

Thank you. I will try that today.
Jim

[mocambique-amazone]

Hi Jim, I really don't trust this tools. I use them too, nevertheless. In the past I got the same problems. To check the tool i drilled a pot and did at some different screws, brass, steel, stainless steel, copper, black screws and some paint. Filled the pot with water and got the water boiled. Every part should have 100°C. SHOULD. The tool did measure a lot of difference, the "hottest" was brass. I did check the temperature again with a contact tool and:
Each part had 100°C !

this indirect tools do the "measurement" with infrared. And they have a spot, some a small spot, other a really hughe spot. You will find a notice about the "cone": 1:5 or 1:20! a small cone is a good one. They don't measure exact the zone of the red light.
And they do it in different ways. The pyrometers we normaly use ist cheap stuff, and not very precise. They do it in one wave grade, they ar called "small band pyrometers", not two or more waves. Metal, coloured metal and polished metal have total different waves at the same temperature.

Check only the same type of steel and paintet or not. Never change between paintet, different materials and between polished and rough.
This pyrometers are good enough to check something, and the number in the display is without worth.
I use them to if every cylinder is running. I do measure the runners on the manifold.

regards, Kay

[Ron Kwas]

Forum;

Kay makes a good point about the accuracy of those tools...and an enlightening test he conducted to show how dependent on Emissivity of various materials and finishes AND the frequency response of the IR front-end of the IR gauge, the accuracy (or inaccuracy) really is. I would believe the difference between two readings on one of those, if I could assure having sensed the same spot (laser dot in the same exact point) in for instance a Before/After test.

I had to deal with this also when comparing a (cast vs. machined enclosure) for a piece of electronics because it affects the enclosure's ability to shed heat.

From the first thing that came up when I searched Emissivity:
"Emissivity is the measure of an object's ability to emit infrared energy. Emitted energy indicates the temperature of the object. Emissivity can have a value from 0 (shiny mirror) to 1.0 (blackbody). Most organic, painted, or oxidized surfaces have emissivity values close to 0.95."

But also this from Wikepedia:
"temperature measurements. – Pyrometers and infrared cameras are instruments used to measure the temperature of an object by using its thermal radiation; no actual contact with the object is needed. The calibration of these instruments involves the emissivity of the surface that's being measured."

Notice that last line...

Cheers

[lelshaddai]

The gauge however is moving pretty far to the right. without numbers I have no idea the temp. I have a contact thermometer I can place in the radiator. But I am not sure if I have an over active gauge or overheat problem. The tank did not ever boil over. There are no numbers on the gauge like shown in the 122 illustration.

[mocambique-amazone]

Easy Jim, remove the sender carefully from the head, do it in a little pot and fill it up with water, get it boiled and voila: 100°C! 212°F do a mark on the gauge in the car and you will feel fine :-)

Regards, Kay

[mocambique-amazone]

double post

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

Easy Jim, remove the sender carefully from the head, do it in a little pot and fill it up with water, get it boiled and voila: 100°C! 212°F do a mark on the gauge in the car and you will feel fine :-)

Regards, Kay

Sorry, wrong advice! The gauge and sensor are permanently coupled and to do as you suggest would necessitate removing gauge from dash which entails removing dash. not a straightforward job. If you want to be sure get hold of a multi meter with a temperature setting such as Draper expert with a physical temperature probe. Touch the probe to where the sender bulb goes into the head, usually the hottest part, and take readings. You can then compare to gauge reading. I did this recently with my B16 and found that the indicated temp's where in line with 'stat.

[Ron Kwas]

arcturus;

I think what Kay was suggesting was to leave the indicating part of Temp Indicator Sys in place in the Instrument Cluster, and simply make a mark for the 100°C / 212°F temp on the glass cover...that is actually what I recommend also.

See: http://www.sw-em.com/temperature_gau...ng_calibration

Cheers

[lelshaddai]

I did an interesting test yesterday. I placed a thermometer in the radiator and checked the sensor with the infrared gun and checked the gauge at the same time. I diagramed the gauge marks with the sensor reading. I found out the stat opens between 180-190f. Everything was going well but the brass fitting in the Weber for the fuel line flew out of the carb. Turns out is was just a pushed in fitting. Fuel flew everywhere. Glad it did it then. Looks like I will need to tap the opening and place a threaded fitting.

[Ron Kwas]

lel...;

Tstat opening at 180-190Deg certainly sounds about right for a 182 rated Tstat...and now you know where that indicates on the gauge...so I guess some of your fears about overheating may be put to rest, and you still have the option of replacing the Tstat with a 162Deg rated one if you have hot running issues in slow traffic on a hot day...

Now it's just a matter of correcting the fuel leak and keeping your Volvo with the Internal Combustion Engine from turning into a Volvo with (the dreaded!) External Combustion Engine!

Cheers