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Bucking under load/boost, 940 B230FT

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Old Oct 7th, 2014, 20:53   #11
barkster1971
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Partsforvolvosonline.com list a genuine volvo one for £41.04.
Where you getting £300 from! That's for the rotor and cap.
I've got the wasted spark system on mine. No moving parts to wear out. Also comes with launch control if you want. I've had mine on for awhile now, works great.
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Old Oct 7th, 2014, 23:20   #12
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There shouldn't be too much of an oil leak. If you clean everything up it should be OK for a while at least. It's probably had a fair few years to get in the state it is now.
It could be the breathers are blocked (another thing to check sorry) as excess pressure inside the engine will find the easiest way out.

Have a look at this page http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ElectricalIgnition.html

Scroll down and you will see the section on replacing the seals and just above it is a picture of a distributor with the black internal shield fitted. I think I found mine on an earlier 940.

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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 09:14   #13
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Thanks for all the info guys,

The breathers have recently been replaced and cleaned, along with some form of recirculation valve? (It was blocked full of black gunk)

I am happy to replace the seals etc myself so that might be a good way forward,

I would LOVE a wasted spark set-up with launch control but I imagine that would be well out of my price range!

Thanks for the advice, I will try and get the cap off this weekend and see what's going on, access doesn't look great though, any advice on removing the cap?

Thanks,

Michael.
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 09:16   #14
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Also forgot to add I feel I may have worn turbo seals as it is on the original turbo and seems to use oil from time to time (much more if I am heavy footed)

This will be sorted as soon as I have the funds (Hopefully this payday), could this lead to increased oil pressure and be blowing my seals? The engine doesn't seem to have loads of blow by when you remove the oil cap at idle.

Thanks,

Michael.
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 13:31   #15
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How much are wasted spark kits and how hard to fit?
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 14:29   #16
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The buchka spark has a thread on turbobricks. Search for "from gothenberg" on the 700/900 section on here to. The little board has to be soldered into the ezk board. you need a 960 ignition module and a disco' or punto coilpack. Get the 240 disc to fill the hole at the back of the head and you need a relay for the speedo. Probably do it for £150 all in maybe a bit less.
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 20:55   #17
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mine did something similar to this, turned out to be inlet manifold gasket. just check that the nuts are tight, mine were just over finger tight. tightened them properly and it got much better, then changed the gasket and its fine now. worth checking.
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 21:40   #18
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Its £300 for the distributor, not the cap or rotor arm. The distributor is the bit that bolts to the head and responsible for keeping the (dirty) oil and electricity apart.. Replacing the cap or arm will only alieviate the problem for a few miles. PFS do not sell the distributor.

What's the speedo relay needed for? I didn't realise this was needed. My speedo triggers on the abs sensors, or do you mean the rev counter?

Last edited by TonyS9; Oct 8th, 2014 at 21:45.
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 21:50   #19
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Thanks dreadnought, I will check my intake manifold tomorrow!

I found a place in Australia selling complete dizzys for £146 but they are listed for the 740 (B230FT). Will this work with my car? If not it might be worth going for a wasted spark setup of replacement dizzys are £300! I need a realistic option as the car was cheap and needs other work.

Can I not replace the seals within my distributer or will it be past that at 167k?

Thanks for the info guys.

Michael.
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Old Oct 8th, 2014, 21:57   #20
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Ah I see, I have one spare as you remove it so the shaft's not spinning round. That's dear for a bit of metal plate! The relay I have has a bit removed so it doesn't tick every second. The pulse from the coil is needed for the speedo so when you remove the coil the relay clips into the two feeds for the coil. You also need to keep the original 940 ignition amplifier connected together or it won't work either.
When I bought the punto coilpack I also asked for 5" of connector so I soldered the wires from the 960 ignition amplifier to it. I also used a shielded wire from the ezk spark board too.
I've not wired up the flat shift ( no rev drop when changing gear ) or launch control ( yet ) as I think my clutch wouldn't like it. When I get the hg fixed I aslo have a 1041k axle to go on
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