Coolant in ATF Au to box oil - Page 2

4candles · Jan 17th, 2016, 22:50

You took how long? lol
Yip, i've s o l d it!

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=242840

Rossi-fan · Jan 17th, 2016, 22:54

Have you moved on from the V marque already?

oragex · Jan 18th, 2016, 01:44

This is how a complete fluid change can be done, with the mention to replace right away the drained fluid at the beginning with fresh fluid, then do all the remaining procedure with the engine start up. Takes a 1/2" outer diameter tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leBtEnEDAtc

ianbatvolvo · Jan 18th, 2016, 19:32

Thanks for the advice, tonight slowly put five litres in via the dipstick filler and will tomorrow locate tubing to loop the ATF flow and return to the rad. The problem was caused by a leak in the rad so at least while I flush and refill I will leave the rad out of the loop. I also need some 24mm I/D blanks to seal off the ATF cooler in the rad so I can fill coolant back up to run the engine. I will then flush through plenty more ATF. If touch wood the flush goes ok and the box still operates then I may well go for an external ATF cooler instead of changing the rad.
Much appreciate the advice, will post how it goes!

blueacid · Jan 19th, 2016, 16:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianbatvolvo

Thanks for the advice, tonight slowly put five litres in via the dipstick filler and will tomorrow locate tubing to loop the ATF flow and return to the rad. The problem was caused by a leak in the rad so at least while I flush and refill I will leave the rad out of the loop. I also need some 24mm I/D blanks to seal off the ATF cooler in the rad so I can fill coolant back up to run the engine. I will then flush through plenty more ATF. If touch wood the flush goes ok and the box still operates then I may well go for an external ATF cooler instead of changing the rad.
Much appreciate the advice, will post how it goes!

I'm sure I saw some advice for towing that suggested a generic oil cooler which could easily be fitted to help keep the box cool under adverse load..

..what I did wonder was whether the box could be harmed through over-cooling (ie never letting it get warm)?

4candles · Jan 19th, 2016, 18:42

Some gearboxes have their own thermostat and only flow the oil through the cooler when at an agreeable temp, however i don't believe this box has that feature so over-cooling is a distinct possibilty if the original rad based coooler was bypassed, the whole reason for rad based oil coolers is to promote a quick warm-up of gearbox from cold once the engine thermostat has opened.

ianbatvolvo · Jan 19th, 2016, 20:41

That sounds like the atf is not being cooled by the rad but being warmed? If that is the case I could presumably use a separate cooler with a water flow from the rad?

4candles · Jan 19th, 2016, 21:09

On the contrary (imo)
The temp in the rad (with engine at temp) will be cooler than the heat the gearbox can produce at temp so it's a warmer and a cooler.

A temperature equilibrium is the goal, at least until towing or excessive hill driving is added to the mix where an extra in-line cooler is advisable.

As i see it, if your gearbox is not connected to the rad your box will take far longer to reach it's optimum temp.

ianbatvolvo · Jan 20th, 2016, 20:40

Yes, I understand and agree, initially warming the ATF then cooling it. Having sourced some hoses today (Pirtek Hoses) I will create a loop on the rad ATF flow and return castings (approx 25mm I/D) so that I can fill the rad with fresh coolant. Hopefully any coolant leakage within the rad will then be contained in the loop and there will be no way of any coolant getting to the ATF. In turn I can then run the engine safely. With the ATF hoses to and from the rad disconnected I should then be able to flush through plenty of ATF. Once the ATF is looking clean then I will lower the car, loop the ATF pipes with a second hose (approx 14mm I/D) and try moving the car around. My final step if the box appears to be functionin ok would be to source a separate water fed cooler and fit this. I prefer this option at least until I know the box is not wrecked because it is fairly straightforward and a lot less cost and time than fitting a new rad. If this seems to make sense to those of you with more experience I'll crack on this weekend.

4candles · Jan 21st, 2016, 00:00

I have no experience per say of this but I do get what you want to do and as an interim measure so as to concentrate on reviving your box I can't forsee any real problem with it.
In the absence of a post citing an issue against it i'd say go for it..

From a personal stand-point i remain on the side of originality.

Jan 17th, 2016, 22:50	#11
4candles I've Been Banned Last Online: Mar 19th, 2016 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yondershire	You took how long? lol Yip, i've s o l d it! http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=242840 Last edited by 4candles; Jan 17th, 2016 at 22:58.

Jan 17th, 2016, 22:54	#12
Rossi-fan Premier Member Last Online: Feb 12th, 2023 10:07 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Durham	Have you moved on from the V marque already? __________________

Jan 18th, 2016, 01:44	#13
oragex Premier Member Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 21:24 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Coldnada	This is how a complete fluid change can be done, with the mention to replace right away the drained fluid at the beginning with fresh fluid, then do all the remaining procedure with the engine start up. Takes a 1/2" outer diameter tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leBtEnEDAtc __________________ Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c

Jan 19th, 2016, 21:09	#18
4candles I've Been Banned Last Online: Mar 19th, 2016 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yondershire	On the contrary (imo) The temp in the rad (with engine at temp) will be cooler than the heat the gearbox can produce at temp so it's a warmer and a cooler. A temperature equilibrium is the goal, at least until towing or excessive hill driving is added to the mix where an extra in-line cooler is advisable. As i see it, if your gearbox is not connected to the rad your box will take far longer to reach it's optimum temp. Last edited by 4candles; Jan 19th, 2016 at 21:22.

Jan 20th, 2016, 20:40	#19
ianbatvolvo New Member Last Online: Nov 12th, 2016 21:08 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: s****horpe	Yes, I understand and agree, initially warming the ATF then cooling it. Having sourced some hoses today (Pirtek Hoses) I will create a loop on the rad ATF flow and return castings (approx 25mm I/D) so that I can fill the rad with fresh coolant. Hopefully any coolant leakage within the rad will then be contained in the loop and there will be no way of any coolant getting to the ATF. In turn I can then run the engine safely. With the ATF hoses to and from the rad disconnected I should then be able to flush through plenty of ATF. Once the ATF is looking clean then I will lower the car, loop the ATF pipes with a second hose (approx 14mm I/D) and try moving the car around. My final step if the box appears to be functionin ok would be to source a separate water fed cooler and fit this. I prefer this option at least until I know the box is not wrecked because it is fairly straightforward and a lot less cost and time than fitting a new rad. If this seems to make sense to those of you with more experience I'll crack on this weekend. Last edited by ianbatvolvo; Jan 20th, 2016 at 20:41. Reason: Approx typed as Apron!

Jan 18th, 2016, 19:32	#14
ianbatvolvo New Member Last Online: Nov 12th, 2016 21:08 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: s****horpe	Thanks for the advice, tonight slowly put five litres in via the dipstick filler and will tomorrow locate tubing to loop the ATF flow and return to the rad. The problem was caused by a leak in the rad so at least while I flush and refill I will leave the rad out of the loop. I also need some 24mm I/D blanks to seal off the ATF cooler in the rad so I can fill coolant back up to run the engine. I will then flush through plenty more ATF. If touch wood the flush goes ok and the box still operates then I may well go for an external ATF cooler instead of changing the rad. Much appreciate the advice, will post how it goes!

Jan 19th, 2016, 18:42	#16
4candles I've Been Banned Last Online: Mar 19th, 2016 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yondershire	Some gearboxes have their own thermostat and only flow the oil through the cooler when at an agreeable temp, however i don't believe this box has that feature so over-cooling is a distinct possibilty if the original rad based coooler was bypassed, the whole reason for rad based oil coolers is to promote a quick warm-up of gearbox from cold once the engine thermostat has opened.

Jan 19th, 2016, 20:41	#17
ianbatvolvo New Member Last Online: Nov 12th, 2016 21:08 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: s****horpe	That sounds like the atf is not being cooled by the rad but being warmed? If that is the case I could presumably use a separate cooler with a water flow from the rad?

Jan 21st, 2016, 00:00	#20
4candles I've Been Banned Last Online: Mar 19th, 2016 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yondershire	I have no experience per say of this but I do get what you want to do and as an interim measure so as to concentrate on reviving your box I can't forsee any real problem with it. In the absence of a post citing an issue against it i'd say go for it.. From a personal stand-point i remain on the side of originality.

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