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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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A puzzle for the EGR valve expert/masochists out there...Views : 19864 Replies : 170Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 29th, 2015, 19:14 | #11 |
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Hi Neil,
Sorry I didn't get to post the diagram off VIDA last night, it's on an old laptop which I reserve for diagnostics, runs XP so no 'snip' tool, so a screenshot and USB stick it is! I should have warned you about that bolt on the top of the cooler... it really is awkward to get at, and like you I found reassembly a lot easier fitting the cooler first then the rest of the gubbins. The 'flange clamp' collar at the hot end of the cooler looked like it was supposed to be a single-use item, but careful easement with a screwdriver got it off in one piece... on mine it was a single metal unit but shaped into 2 halves which opened up enough to go over the two flanges and then clamped with a single bolt, again... awkward to get on straight! Sounds like yours was in need of a clean - hope it's done the job when you get the fuel pipe fixed! You might be able to rig something up as a temporary measure if the fuels not under too much pressure in that section.
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Previously held: 264GLE;S60 SE 2.0T;XC70 SE LUX D5 (163);V70 SE (170);V70 SE D5 (163) Currently held: XC90 SE LUX (MY12 200), XC70 SE D5 (MY06 185); V70 SE D5 (MY07 185) |
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May 30th, 2015, 07:37 | #12 |
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Hi Symes,
no worries mate. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. I won't lie, I was seriously ****ed off when I couldn't check the car after all the work. I simply have no idea how the union at the fuel pipe got damaged as I wasn't working or leaning near it. Hey ho! The suspense is killing me. One last request, but don't go to any hassle. Can you see via Vida what the part number is for that flange clamp as I can't find it listed from volvo parts suppliers? alternatively, if you know the diameter of the rigid collar that sits inside the 'jubilee clip' and holds together the cooler and the exit hose, maybe I can find an equivalent locally. As it stands, I only have half a collar inside the fitting, and my guess is that this won't hold up, or function, well. Cheers Neil |
May 30th, 2015, 13:22 | #13 |
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Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 03:33
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Location: Andover, Hants
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Hi Neil,
Here's the parts diagram, although it doesn't show a clamp around the cooler to exhaust connector pipe... and the one at the other end of the exhaust connector pipe looks to be shown as a normal 'worm' drive one! However the description has the parts listed as 'sealing ring' and 'v-clamp' (and quantity 2) so I'm pretty sure those are the ones! Can't tell you the sizes I'm afraid... although if the dealer prices are extortionate it would be worth putting out another call for them as they must be available elsewhere.
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Previously held: 264GLE;S60 SE 2.0T;XC70 SE LUX D5 (163);V70 SE (170);V70 SE D5 (163) Currently held: XC90 SE LUX (MY12 200), XC70 SE D5 (MY06 185); V70 SE D5 (MY07 185) |
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May 30th, 2015, 14:32 | #14 |
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Last Online: Jul 31st, 2015 21:44
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Any thoughts about blanking the egr off completely?
The egr became a problem on an old car of mine, a 2.5 v6 tdi Audi. It began driving horribly until th egr was disabled, thereafter it drove better than ever. |
May 30th, 2015, 17:00 | #15 |
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Hi Jefferg (and others),
I'm certainly open to trying something new! I managed to fix the fuel pipe union that I broke inadvertantly and took the car for a 50 mile test drive on mixed terrain. The bad news is that the same old error code 44B0 (EGR position sensor faulty signal) reared its head, as did 6720 (EGR flow high). The good news is that the car drove like a bullet train and certainly the combination of the swirl arm rod repair, new EGR position sensor and cleaning up the EGR valve and EGR cooler has massively improved the cars driveability. Also, not once did the car go into limp mode. However, the car is now showing the same codes that were a signature of it getting stuck in low power mode and whicch led me to do the work on the EGR assembly. Thus, I'm totally mystified. Especially the code for the EGR position sensor, since I've just fitted a brand new position sensor. As far as the car and diagnostics are concerned the issues remain, yet the feeling as a driver is transformed, and (today at least) not one incidence of low power mode. I'd rather have a high power car that thinks its sick that a sick car that thinks its fine. However, all this must mean something, but I'm scratching my head as to what it is? The only thing I can think of is that the adaptations for the EGR valve may need to be reset, which I cannot do, but this is clutching at straws. Not the cure I'd hoped for, at least in the black box, but a step in the right direction......maybe! Any suggestions or ideas on this appreciated. cheers Neil Last edited by SkintKnuckles; May 30th, 2015 at 17:02. |
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May 30th, 2015, 17:43 | #16 |
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Good luck getting to the route cause. I'm struggling to figure out why mine is running in limp mode constantly. After ignition it will rev to red line if allowed, but will enter limp mode and there it shall stay for the whole journey.
I don't think mine is egr related, but can't rule anything out. Tried cleaning my maf today, not an iota of difference made. Looked for blockage in the pcv heater nipple after finding oil in the electrical connector, but it was clear. Stumped. |
May 30th, 2015, 19:14 | #17 |
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Hi Symes,
great - much appreciated. It looks like the whole lot is going to have to come off again anyway, as part of trying to trace this bloody fault down, so I can replace the gasket then. I'll need to sort myself a copy of this software you are using as it is well handy! Thanks again. The quest goes on for the mysterious EGR related problem... Have a nicw weekend Neil |
May 30th, 2015, 20:21 | #18 |
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I've yet to get one, but i love the the idea of the dongle which gives live data on your phone or tablet, all those various dials telling you your fuel operating pressures, your alternator readings, MAF readings etc etc,
Along with the knowledge of what the actual readings should be, and i'm sure we'd all become far more able to diagnose these gremlins, but as with most issues, there is no substitute for a good mechanic who has model specific field experience 'Clan' is our resident Volvo guru, nice helpful guy by all accounts.. 4c. |
May 31st, 2015, 02:00 | #19 |
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Hi 4C,
yup, all this live data does seem to be the way to go. I went for a BSR PPC3, and it works a dream, but doesn't given live data etc. This seems to be the next logical step, but my current problems with the car are eating up all the spare cash I've got and then some. I think you've hit the nail on the head with the normal vs abnormal readings/ranges. This is what I feel I currently lack insight into, and feel would make the biggest difference to moving forward. Certainly this is where the dealers have all the kit, and it must make things a bit less opaque. And I think I'm the living proof that there is no substitute for an experienced Volvo mechanic, lol I agree about Clan. Even though I'm new to the board he has already made a suggestion (yesterday) about a possibly homemade fix for a union I'd broke. The volvo price was £105, Today I did a fix based around Clan's advice for just £7 and its better than the original, albeit uglier. The guys a star and I'll be posting photos of this fix so others can maybe use it! cheers Neil |
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May 31st, 2015, 10:56 | #20 |
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I believe the dongle is only £10-15 !!
One thing often overlooked in any fault scenario is the wiring or in particular the connector plug to any given sensor, especicially one that has recently been removed or disturbed... and wiring is my pet hate ! 4c. |
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