Auto Transmission Problems

[luggsey]

On the P2 the sub frame has to be dropped to get the cover off. I looked at doing mine but after an oil change the solenoids don't stick as much now and the occasional fast shift 3-4 is no problem!

[Ritch]

Originally Posted by Curtius

Have been trawling YouTube and found a number of videos on solving the problem by changing the valve body or even removing and cleaning the solenoids. Also there seem to be a number of US suppliers of kits for overhauling solenoids. I'm thinking this may be an option if the fluid level proves to be correct. Has anyone removed a valve body with the box in situ? If so are there any tips to pass on?

You need a new valve body. Ebay is your friend.

I swapped mine out and the car now shifts like new. I literally couldn't drive more than 15 mins in it before because it shifted so hard I was likely to have an accident or destroy something.

I did mine on my driveway, on axle stands. Not the worst job i've ever done but a bit of a cow for sure. Cleanliness is key when you get the cover off. Don't scrimp on the sealant you use. Remove as much of the 'up top' stuff as you can to increase sighting/access.

Don't need the car for a few days in case things go awry. You will want to let the sealant cure before running/filling. Get Vida/Dice up and running so you can fill it to the correct level at the correct temperature and also reset the fluid counters.

I sometimes wonder if new solenoids alone would have cured my problem but as it stands, knowing it is all brand spankers in there makes me reassured I shouldn't have to do it again - hopefully

[Curtius]

Apologies for delayed response.
Am still trying other options before embarking on the major (and expensive) work of changing the gearbox or valve body. Checked the fluid level cold the other day and about a quarter of a pint of somewhat dirty looking fluid came out. This despite doing a full fluid change (Gibbons method, 20 litres) less than 100 miles ago. Gave the car a run to get fluid up to temp and checked again - no more came out. But hard shifts, flaring and heavy clink into reverse still occurring when warm!
Question: Should the colour of the fluid now still be red or does the brown colour indicate I have not flushed it enough? I think my first course of action will be to flush with another 20 litres of fluid.
Question for 'Ritch': If this fails and I go for the Valve Body replacement option will I have to drop the front subframe, as suggested by 'luggsey'?

[luggsey]

Originally Posted by Curtius

Apologies for delayed response.
Am still trying other options before embarking on the major (and expensive) work of changing the gearbox or valve body. Checked the fluid level cold the other day and about a quarter of a pint of somewhat dirty looking fluid came out. This despite doing a full fluid change (Gibbons method, 20 litres) less than 100 miles ago. Gave the car a run to get fluid up to temp and checked again - no more came out. But hard shifts, flaring and heavy clink into reverse still occurring when warm!
Question: Should the colour of the fluid now still be red or does the brown colour indicate I have not flushed it enough? I think my first course of action will be to flush with another 20 litres of fluid.
Question for 'Ritch': If this fails and I go for the Valve Body replacement option will I have to drop the front subframe, as suggested by 'luggsey'?

100 miles is not enough to let the box settle down tbh.
Are you checking fluid levels with the engine running?
I would do another oil change if it's still dirty, if you do end up fitting a valve body you want the box totally clean.
If you do the valve body, you don't remove the subframe you simply release the bolts a bit, with the engine propped, to get the cover off the valve block.
I'm 99% sure you should run the full Vida adaption process after fitting a new valve block.

[Curtius]

Originally Posted by luggsey

100 miles is not enough to let the box settle down tbh.
Are you checking fluid levels with the engine running?
I would do another oil change if it's still dirty, if you do end up fitting a valve body you want the box totally clean.
If you do the valve body, you don't remove the subframe you simply release the bolts a bit, with the engine propped, to get the cover off the valve block.
I'm 99% sure you should run the full Vida adaption process after fitting a new valve block.

Thanks for advice. I've decided I will do another fluid change. Can't remember whether I checked levels with engine running so will do that and then run car for longer.
As XC70 was bought to replace another car which I haven't sold yet (due to problem with the XC) I don't get to run it much!