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Oil recommendations?

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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 20:44   #11
4 forty
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Default oil information by chemist

try looking at the undermentioned site, developed by an oil chemist.
www.bobistheoilguy.com

there is also a new mobil 1 high milage 10-40 on the market
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...ge_10W-40.aspx

paul

Last edited by 4 forty; Mar 13th, 2007 at 21:17.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 13:17   #12
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The general rule is that if the manufacturer states that you can use 2 grades of oil (2nd number) then if you use a real synthetic you can use the thinner oil ie a 30 grade even if its only recommended for Canada in winter. Reasons are fairly simple to follow:- A real synthetic oil is 3 to 5 times stronger than a mineral oil and therefore can be thinner and give better protection as it doesn't need thickness to bolster up its inherent weaknesses. All manufactures will by necessity give recommendations for the lowest common denominators ie cheap mineral oil so you will buying in a nice margin over this. The thinner grade synthetic oils will also allow the engine to warm up more quickly (highest wear and fuel consumption/emission period) run cooler as the thinner oil will effectively strip away the heat from the bearings and piston faster and transfer that heat away better. Result is more power through less pumping losses, better MPG and better wear protection. The extra expense of the real synthetic oil will easily be covered by between 4-8% more MPG. Extra bonuses are cleaner engine internals, smoother engine and longer oil change intervals. When you look into it its a 'no brainer'
Best oils---IMHO Amsoil, Castrol Edge, Motul.
The 1st number is the thickness of the oil when cold which relates to its ability to get to bearing quickly on starting, important with Turbo engines. Even a 0w when cold will be thicker than a 40 when hot so never worry about having a low 1st number.
What oil thickness I'd go for? A 5w-30 or even a 0w-30, the benefits are great.

Last edited by amsoil; Mar 18th, 2007 at 13:19.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 16:23   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick70 View Post
My S40 2.0T ....etc.....
Hi,
for ours S40 2.0T Mobil-1-SuperSyn 5-50W wud be the best
using it several years and have done several times round-trips
from Madrid to Stockholm. Do not use 0-40W !
saludos
.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 19:16   #14
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Just curious why you would use a 50 grade when athe manufacturer specifies 30 or 40 grade? The thicker oil will just cause a bit more heat, pumping losses and less MPG.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 19:21   #15
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the url is http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html.

one thing to note is which ever grade you choose, stick to it. bearings etc wil wear according to the film thickness created by the oil. using different grades will result in different film thickness causing wear.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 19:41   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyhound1 View Post
Greets all....

Just been to carbible.com and got preached at! Are you sure it's the correct url?

I'm really looking for the definitive answer re the best oil to use for my 940GLE 2.3 LPT. I want to give my turbo the best chance in life!

Cheers

really? This website? CarBibles.com.. i found it with a lot of useful info.

i use Mobil 1 in my V50 T5. its rated at 15w-50. like the stuff and its easy to buy. has good cleaning properties and protective enough. Dealer wanted me to put in some 0w-30 castrol but i figured my mobil to be better despite the castrol having ACEA5. Took the car back after the service and with mobil 1, it was running smooth, fuel consumption improved.

With the winters we have here and all the global warming we hear about all the time, 0w is a real waste of time. warm winters, hot summer... I suspect my 15w-50 is just about right for the turbo.

cheers
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 19:52   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amsoil View Post
Just curious why you would use a 50 grade when athe manufacturer specifies 30 or 40 grade? The thicker oil will just cause a bit more heat, pumping losses and less MPG.
I would think the manufacturer specified 30 grade cause they were testing in real cold climate? Like sweden, etc. England is alot warmer average. Besides, in the end, a hot climate specifies a thicker working range like 50 grade then wouldn't this be better for my engine which has a turbo and heat around the engine in the engine bay could be real hot?

I am no expert but if 50 grade is good for long term protection plus engine oil changes are far apart these days, logically I prefer to use it even if Uk is a few degrees colder than say, Italy or egypt. Long term protection is what I want. But thats just me.

I would like to try Amsoil one day but can it be bought easily at a shop? I prefer to deal with faces and rarely buy anything online.

cheers.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 21:27   #18
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If you are a Mobil 1 man then Mobil has a good range of 40 grade oil that would be better for your engine. As a quality oil will tend to thicken over time rather than thin your pursuit of longer oil change intervals again should steer you to a thinner grade. Your engine will run cooler with a thinner grade because the oil flows better and shifts the oil from the 'hot areas' of the engine. The last thing you want at the turbo is a slow flowing heat that will hang around long enough for thermal shattering to occur.
In the days before synthetic oils and very efficient injection systems a 50 grade (or even 60) would be specified as the thickness was necessary to prevent wear on high performance engines, Mineral oil can thin over time and so this gives a margin, and performance cars with fuel dumping Webbers or the like would end up with fuel in the oil having passed the rings further diluting the mineral oils grade and protection.
As synthetic oils in modern cars wont get diluted with fuel, if anything thicken up over time and are 3 - 5 times more robust in the 1st place all the old beliefs are redundant with real Synthetics. Unfortunately the old advice appears to persist.
I’d actually go the whole hog and use a 5w-30; but there are plenty of 5w-40 grades about.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 22:33   #19
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allright, you can tell me what you want about what wud be better for my engine. Like the gay at Volvo field factory who told me coupla yrs ago when I bought my S40T, to avoid to use oils with more than 25 range difference. So a 5w-30 wud be quite good, he said.
Well, the thing is, I m using 5w-50 during 6 years now in a zero - 45 degrees climat range, and today I wudnt change for another grade-spec. I tried once with a 0w-40 but its too thin for me. Had problems with the oil-return in my Turbo.
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Old Mar 18th, 2007, 22:36   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amsoil View Post
If you are a Mobil 1 man then Mobil has a good range of 40 grade oil that would be better for your engine. As a quality oil will tend to thicken over time rather than thin your pursuit of longer oil change intervals again should steer you to a thinner grade. Your engine will run cooler with a thinner grade because the oil flows better and shifts the oil from the 'hot areas' of the engine. The last thing you want at the turbo is a slow flowing heat that will hang around long enough for thermal shattering to occur.
In the days before synthetic oils and very efficient injection systems a 50 grade (or even 60) would be specified as the thickness was necessary to prevent wear on high performance engines, Mineral oil can thin over time and so this gives a margin, and performance cars with fuel dumping Webbers or the like would end up with fuel in the oil having passed the rings further diluting the mineral oils grade and protection.
As synthetic oils in modern cars wont get diluted with fuel, if anything thicken up over time and are 3 - 5 times more robust in the 1st place all the old beliefs are redundant with real Synthetics. Unfortunately the old advice appears to persist.
I’d actually go the whole hog and use a 5w-30; but there are plenty of 5w-40 grades about.
Yeah I am a mobil 1 guy. so far nothing I have read can change my mind. I think their blend is fine for use. Cant be too wrong cause its been used by me for many years, in many cars including one we owned which was a BMW M5 for 14 years. If it ain't broke, why fix it.

cheers
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