Fuel System: 140 Carb: Losing power under load

[Audrey Old]

A few years ago I had similar problems on one of my Volvo 164s (which has the same fuel tank, carb and pump as the 144). I used my tyre-inflation foot pump by hand to send a rush of air back down the fuel line into the tank, and the bubbling could be heard, so I assumed all was now OK.
That lasted for about a mile when it gave the symptoms of fuel starvation, it needing lots of choke to get home. I removed the tank (lots of screws round its flange onto the boot floor) and found the metal fuel pipe was almost solid rust just where it left the tank. I eventually removed the threaded bit, and with a bit of prodding with a cycle spoke inside the tank found it all bunged up inside - not an area I could get at to see why.
I had a decent tank from a 144 I scrapped years ago (it pays to be a hoarder!) so replaced mine. I also had to fit a fuel-proof rubber pipe for the rearmost yard or so of the metal fuel pipe, and all was well from then on.

Paul

[Computer Jones]

Paul, thanks for the input! I fitted a fuel filter a couple of weeks ago (either it didn't originally come with one, or a previous owner took it off or something- goddamn) and I can see now that the fuel coming out is slightly brown, and little flecks of rust are starting to collect in the filter. Things are obviously not all well in fuel tank country! I'll have it cleaned out next week.

[Derek UK]

Once the filter insert starts to go brown, consider it to be virtually blocked by the ultrafines. I tried to filter some "brown" fuel through a brand new and quite large Crossland filter and the flow stopped after about 1 gallon. What came through was still brown but lighter so the particle size in that must have been close to sub microns. Filters are cheap, change often if you have rusty tank problems, and keep a couple of spares in the boot!

[Computer Jones]

Not sure why I didn't mention this before, but there's what is probably an insane amount of play in the distributor rotor- about 90 degrees. Can I assume the distributor shaft is damaged and if so, does anyone know where one can find a replacement? Could the timing gear also be responsible?

[swedishandgerman]

There's your problem. There should be virtually no flopiness, but there should be springiness if you grab hold of the rotor arm. You should be able to twist it with some resistance and it should snap back to its original position when let go

I restore knackered distributors, but yours sounds like it's beyond it. Unfortunately I don't have the correct distributor at the moment for you, so you want to put out a "wanted" for an 077 type distributor

You'll notice a massive difference in performance, drivability and fuel consumption with the correct distributor in it

[Computer Jones]

Actually, it's a brand new distributor, a 123Ignition. But maybe, being electronic, it's supposed to have some play- I don't know. Anyone else use one?

[arcturus]

The "play" you mention is normal with 123. It's part of the advance mechanism inside the dizy. Not slop in dogs. I have one fitted on mine

[Computer Jones]

Thanks! Thought so. I'm guessing it's the timing gears, or perhaps a blocked carb jet or something. Parts soon to come there.

In the meantime, replacing the fuel pump this weekend. It seems OK but you never know- and it's good to have a spare...

[arcturus]

Don't touch the timeing gears. they can't slip. Check the timing on dizy if you have a strobe. Should be 34 at full advance, 10 static.

[kishor kassie]

Originally Posted by Computer Jones

Thanks! Thought so. I'm guessing it's the timing gears, or perhaps a blocked carb jet or something. Parts soon to come there.

In the meantime, replacing the fuel pump this weekend. It seems OK but you never know- and it's good to have a spare...

Hi. Please do not open the timing gear as it's not the problem. Sounds like fuel 'starvage', perhaps bring it to me and I will sort it out as I have spares if needed. Only near the Dartford Toll. Ta, Kassie 078 2887 9494