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Is there a definitive oil and flush thread - 5sp Auto???

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Old Mar 29th, 2012, 22:15   #11
RM955I
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I haven't yet had a chance to get underneath the car and "explore" so excuse the daft question but is the auto drain plug self evident? Presumably it's a nut,like an engine sump plug, on the bottom of the transmission (LOL....how stupid does that sound!) - what size and where is it located?

Sorry if I sound like a complete mechanical idiot - believe it or not I used to do most of my own work on my previous SAAB 95 aero and I service and maintain my own motorbike but the Volvo is completely new to me as is an auto 'box and I'm just a little cautious.

Any pics/links would be welcome.

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Old Mar 29th, 2012, 23:15   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgeandkira View Post
"...introducing a little fresh fluid in while the drain plug is open can help flush out...". If you can spray enough fluid in there to create an effective rinse, go ahead, knock yourself out. I doubt you'll flush out any additional nastiness, practically speaking.
You misunderstand: put the fluid in the dipstick hole (where you fill the box) from where it runs over the solenoids, down the bottom of the valve cover and into the sump; anything left sitting there and any crud and condensation from around the inside of the dipstick tube gets flushed out.

250ml is a good amount, I've used this method many times.

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Sealed For Life Transmission: "The unit is sealed until it dies from dirty, old fluid which should have been replaced."
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Old Mar 29th, 2012, 23:18   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM955I View Post
I haven't yet had a chance to get underneath the car and "explore" so excuse the daft question but is the auto drain plug self evident?

Any pics/links would be welcome.
Here's a complete procedure with pics:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...pic.php?t=8767

Best of luck!

Chris...
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Old Apr 12th, 2012, 23:30   #14
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I finally ordered 10lt of the appropriate Millermatic oil from Opie Oils which meets the 3309 spec.

Whilst the current oil didn't look too bad when viewed on the dipstick, its blackened appearance was evident when I drained it. I could also now tell that it had a distinctive smell to it when compared to the new oil so all in all, a change at 90k is probably long overdue. I will do another 2 flushes/sump dumps in quick succession and see how we go from there.

I'm no doubt preaching to the converted but this is most definitely a "just do it"...I really dread to think of the potential damage and premature failure the Volvo recommendation of "no oil change required" (to paraphrase - my words, not theirs) could lead to.
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Old Apr 13th, 2012, 02:43   #15
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Hello, So glad you got back to us. It really was straightforward, wasn't it? There are two luxuries which can be added to this job. The first is a catch pan with a pour spout. You can stick the spout into a used jug directly and skip the wobbly funnel. The second is a spread out packing blanket. If the wind blows trickling oil about it'll be there to catch it. You wont be staining the driveway. If it ever gets too dirty (your call) you can lay the blanket out in the street and hit it with a few buckets of warm to hot soapy water, rinse it a time or two, and hang it up to dry. Do that on a dry day. Never wash an oily drop cloth in any washing machine. Kira
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Old Apr 13th, 2012, 13:51   #16
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Yes - it really was easy to do.....easier than an oil and filter change TBH and there is satisfaction in knowing that whilst there's at least another couple of sump dumps to do at least the process is started and that a large portion of the dirty, black old oil has been removed. If there's one thing that I don't believe in cutting corners on it's regular oil and filter changes and that now applies to the transmission oil.

I also found out how slow slung these V70s are! I used to be able to crawl under my SAAB 95 Aero without need for a jack/axle stands or ramps...the Volvo needed a bit of jacking just to get under it.
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Old Apr 13th, 2012, 19:22   #17
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was wondering if I could put a smaal pipe down dipstick and extract this way??
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Old Apr 13th, 2012, 19:45   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmsggg View Post
was wondering if I could put a smaal pipe down dipstick and extract this way??
You can (it's how I obtain samples for analysis, using a syringe and plastic tubing) but it won't get rid of all the crud at the bottom and the metal shavings stuck on to the magnets. If anything a pipe down there will dredge that stuff up without removing any of it.

Really a much better idea to crack the drain plug and drain that way.

Chris...
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Old Apr 13th, 2012, 19:53   #19
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Good feeling innit, knowing that you have fresh ATF of the correct 'spec swilling around in there
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Old Apr 13th, 2012, 20:10   #20
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Hello RM955I, I cannot fathom crawling underneath anything lower than my sister's '99 Jeep Cherokee. Since that is what you do I must conclude that you do not even own a set of ramps. Older, very affordable steel ramps are all over the place and frequently require the placement of lumber ahead of them so the very low air dams on today's cars don't scrape. What you can do is buy a set of newer, low approach angle ramps which are suited to today's cars. A brand over here is "Rhino Ramps". For the money involved, however, I gladly use the lumber ahead of my old ones. If you had ramps this simple chore would be even easier. Also, are you telling us that you get beneath a car while it's jacked up---even a bit? A guy who doesn't own ramps probably doesn't own stands either. Don't make me come over there!
To hmsggg: Oil extractors which have a thin plastic hose are fitted to a hand vacuum catch tank and work MUCH more quickly than any syringe method you could devise. But TurboZutek is right on the money; better to pull the plug and let it drain rapidly from the sumps low point. Kira
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