My turn now - power loss

[ivor940]

following text was ommitted from above post:



Problem diagnosis: When this relay fails, it can cause:

Hot start problems (car won't restart until it cools down)
Failure of fuel injector system (no injector pulses)
Backfiring or balky acceleration (insufficient or inconsistent injector pulses)

with thanks to Brickboard.com


ivor940

[ivor940]

Update on my car power loss, it returned this evening. Have swapped the Fuel Injection relay at ashtray. Will advise if this fixes it.

ivor940

[ivor940]

Hi, I put s/h Fuel Inj Relay ( dated 1998 made in Hungary ). Car ran ok for a bit and then stopped altogether. Wouldnt start. Put my original Fuel Injection relay back and got car home. Swapped back to original Radio Suppression relay and car backfired and wouldnt accelerate. Put replacement RDS relay back. Car started. Got home & I then opened both Fuel Inj Relays. My original ( dated 93 made in Germany ) has one or 2 Dry Joints. The replacement '98 one has 3 dry joints. Will solder and advise result.

ivor940
94 940 2.0 SE Turbo Est 5spd 165.5k

VOV member

[RollingThunder]

Thanks for this Ivor - I'd usually do a fuller search on all the forums, but I've been busy sevicing the 850 ready for collection by its new owner (ironic, as the 850 never gave me any problems and has always run faultlessly!), and I'm fitting a new bathroom - on top of working 8-8...aaargh!

Hope you manage to fix your problem - I've bought a new white fuel injection relay and will re-solder the radio suppression relay today - on top of all the other stuff previously mentioned. And somewhere in amongst all that I am determined to watch the rugby

All the best,

[RollingThunder]

Well, I managed to swap the white injection relay with a new one, pulled the radio suppression relay apart and checked it but it looked fine. The relay bases didn't seem to be scorched, so I'll have to assume that they aren't the cause for now.

When I took the throttle body off I was stunned at the amount of carbon build up inside it - the worst I've ever seen. There must have been an 1/8th of an inch in there. I'm amazed the car was running at all, and no wonder the idle was rough - the idle bypass nozzle was all but blocked. After cleaning it all out, resetting the idle adjustment (she wanted to 'idle' at 2200 rpm now that she can breathe ) and checking the IAC (looks like a recon one has been fitted recently), she's running much smoother. I just need to increase the idle speed a tad as she's struggling a bit when hot - idle is down to about 450/500 rpm.

As the original power loss problem was so intermittent, I'm not sure that the root cause has been identified and cured - I'll just have to cross my fingers I suppose...

[ivor940]

Great to hear your car is running better. The Idle Valve is adjustable by a small TORX screw on the IAC valve ( usually hidden with a wax type substance).
I swapped the Main fuel pump on my car. It is running much better and now starts first time hot or cold. The old pump had a faulty check valve. If it runs for a week or so with no stalling, I will post fix.

ivor940

[classicracing]

My turn again now, having said this only happens every six months the engine cut yesterday.
Slightly different though and bearing in mind My wife was driving although I had asked her to note certain things as follows

1. Engine total cut at 30 mph steady throttle
2. All dash warning lights came on although the engine was still turning
3. Manual gearbox clutch still engaged
4. Rev conter and speedo still registering
5. No throttle response during deceleration
6. Came to complete rest, cranks on starter but no restart
7. Started and drove normally 20 seconds later

I have already 'wiggle' tested the majority of connections under the bonnet as I thought this might be ingnition related but the rev counter still worked so spark was present so am now rethinking
Driving my 240 GLT at the same speed and switching off shows the alternator light on but rev and speedo drop immediately to zero.

Any input from you guys would be appreciated
I don't think its a fuel filter this would give a more progressive and stuttery engine cut and restart. This is clean like the ignition is turned off, but the rev counter works??????

Thanks a lot everybody

Richard

[ivor940]

Hi, What car / milage / transmission is it? Turbo? Was fuel tank above or below 1/3 full? When was Fuel Injection relay last changed? Was Radio Suppression relay checked? Is Throttle Body clean? Did the Lambda light come on?

ivor940

[ivor940]

Hi, I see from earlier post that you have 96 945 2.3 HPT 5 spd. Please indicate milage. Some posts on Brickboard suggest Ign Switch contacts. On my 2.0 Turbo, changing the Main pump, the Fuel Inj ( white ) relay and the Radio Suppression relay seeme to have cured promlem, but I am waiting to run tank to below 1.4 to see all is well. BTW the car has its lively feel back ( will screech wheels in 1st, 2nd & 3rd )

ivor940

[classicracing]

Hi Ivor 940
Milage 117.000
3/4 tank
No parts changed in my history (since93k- 18 months
Richard)