V70: snapping bolt and a raft of pain..

[37 RUBY]

Having rebuilt an 80 year old car engine I have dealt with my fair share of seized fasteners including headbolts that protrude into a water jacket.

I have found that heat the outer casting, freeze the stud head with something like this https://ttproducts.com/product/rust-penetrant/, lubricate, leave alone for several days before any attempt to move the fastener and keeping movements small has been the saving grace.

As for stud removers such as those that Green Van Man talk is about, it you do use them buy the best you can afford.

That said you don't appear to have enough space to accurately drill out studs.

What about some of these...https://www.lasertools.co.uk ?

[Ian21401]

Bob,
Is that the filter on the left side of the picture and the pump at the bottom or is the filter at the top out of sight.?
I think that haldex 3 has the filter at the side and haldex 4 has the filter at the top.
I don’t know whether you have haldex 3 or haldex 4 but there are several “how to’s” on YouTube. If you haven’t already, I would strongly advise that you have a look at them. I think that the one by volvosweden looks particularly helpfull. I think that it is on a haldex 4 but I may be wrong. It also explains how to remove the pump without removing the prop shaft and flange by loosening the pump cover so that when the pump is loosened it can be manoeuvred past the hub. On reassembly he grinds the pump cover down slightly so that it can be fitted past the flange.

[100K+]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Bob,
Is that the filter on the left side of the picture and the pump at the bottom or is the filter at the top out of sight.?
I think that haldex 3 has the filter at the side and haldex 4 has the filter at the top.
I don’t know whether you have haldex 3 or haldex 4 but there are several “how to’s” on YouTube. If you haven’t already, I would strongly advise that you have a look at them. I think that the one by volvosweden ilooks particularly helpfull. One of them even explains how to remove the pump without removing the hub by loosening the pump cover so that when the pump is loosened it can be manoeuvred past the hub.

Filter is in upper LH corner with 2 @ 5mm hex bolts showing. ( just above a 13mm nut/bolt) Below and a bit to the right is the pump,one 5mm hex showing and the power lead showing at approx 3 o' clock. Theres a <5mm gap between the flange and the pump housing and I doubt its possible to get off with flange in position. I have seen volvosweden's vid, but its later haldex than mine. Mine is only Gen 2. ( 1/16 rotation before locking AWD in.)
Yep, Pauls idea of drilling and tapping - even with my bosch screwdriver + drill bit, is still far to big to fit. - A 90deg angle drive might work??? as used in cabinet construction?? - more thought..

Cheers
Bob

[Derek UK]

Is it a naïve comment to say why not drop the prop and take the whole unit off? What is the method a Volvo dealer would use? Procedure is probably laid out in Vida.

[100K+]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Is it a naïve comment to say why not drop the prop and take the whole unit off? What is the method a Volvo dealer would use? Procedure is probably laid out in Vida.

Procedure is laid out in vida. This is the exact world of pain I'm trying to avoid..Working on that type of dismantling job under a car on ramps/axel stands no longer appeals at 66 yrs. 40 years ago I probably would take it on, no doubt assisted by my engineering dad who was the chief engineer at the then local Steel works.
I believe i have a solution to removing ( or snapping ) the Halden filter bolts ( left handed nut extractor with flutes) I'm now in the process of establishing how much twist I dare/can apply before I risk snapping them..
Cheers Bob

[Ian21401]

Bob,
The smallest twist socket in my set is 10mms. which from your picture could be about right. The next size up is 11mms. But they only work in the one direction.
If I was doing this I think that I would try hammering in the relevant size of torx first. As stated previously, post#9 I think, if it wasn’t going to loosen the bolt it would probably twist out before the bolt was in danger of snapping. Also, that way, if it did grip, you could start with the small movements in both directions, slightly more each time, whilst continuing to dose with penetrating fluid.
In addition, Laird Scooby (Dave) in a different thread commented on the efficiency of the ATFu/Acetone mix as a releasing agent. He advised that the ATF must be fully synthetic to be really effective, apparently the mineral /semi synthetic stuff just doesn’t work nearly as well, if at all.
I fully understand your comments re age etc. In my younger days I would drop a gearbox and crawl out from underneath with the box on my chest, but I’m now 75 and don’t think that I would do it now. Having said that, my daughter is running a 2011 XC70 AWD which also has a haldex unit which I may have to deal with at some time.

[grubby mits]

Originally Posted by 100K+

Procedure is laid out in vida. This is the exact world of pain I'm trying to avoid..Working on that type of dismantling job under a car on ramps/axel stands no longer appeals at 66 yrs. 40 years ago I probably would take it on, no doubt assisted by my engineering dad who was the chief engineer at the then local Steel works.
I believe i have a solution to removing ( or snapping ) the Halden filter bolts ( left handed nut extractor with flutes) I'm now in the process of establishing how much twist I dare/can apply before I risk snapping them..
Cheers Bob

IMHO best results for loosening seized fasteners are achieved using simultaneous torque and shock. Torque alone is more likely to shear the fastener. Hence an impact driver is more likely to be successful. Test this method on the practice bolts you propose to buy before risking it on the car.

The only guaranteed way of not snapping the bolts is not to attempt their removal in the first place. Are you convinced that filter replacement is vital at the present time?

GM

[37 RUBY]

Originally Posted by grubby mits

IMHO best results for loosening seized fasteners are achieved using simultaneous torque and shock. Torque alone is more likely to shear the fastener. Hence an impact driver is more likely to be successful. Test this method on the practice bolts you propose to buy before risking it on the car.

GM

Heat then freeze is good for producing a shock that will break the contact corrosion but without the torsional forces that shear bolts.

The problem of using an impact driver in this instance is the small diameter of the bolt which will likely snag and shear. Impact drivers are good for 10mm dia thread and above whereupon the impact driver can be given a good thrashing.

Patience is the key to a successfully removed seized stud...or a centre punch and a pillar drill.

[37 RUBY]

Originally Posted by 100K+

Yep, Pauls idea of drilling and tapping - even with my bosch screwdriver + drill bit, is still far to big to fit. - A 90deg angle drive might work??? as used in cabinet construction??

Having been there and failed, a right angle drill is a likely recipe for disaster. Can you be sure of a dead centre pilot hole? An inadvertent off centre pilot hole gives a whole new world of pain.

[100K+]

Originally Posted by grubby mits

Are you convinced that filter replacement is vital at the present time?

GM

This was where I was at before I decided to revist the filter removal. Old mans pride/stubborness call it what you will has brought me to where I am today. Within the pump I believe there is a small mesh filter, and there is no way that can be replace by me. Thus there is to me a precedence to say OK stick with the original idea and leave well alone....

This has been an interesting discussion, with many interesting suggestions and comments, all of which I have given due consideration to, and will try to use as I decide the course of action to follow.

Not wanting to repeat myself, but I'll check up the snapping torques figures of the 5mm bolts I get, and play around with my rattle gun/ electric drill on the lowest setting to see whats what.

Eventually I might just consider the risk not (currently) worth the reward.
I will update on the 3 possible outcomes....

Cheers
Bob