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total electrical failure?

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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 15:55   #11
saturnfive
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Sounds like it might be a good idea to get a VIDA laptop. Hoping that's not too expensive. If everything is controlled by computers that send messages to things to operate then just having power at them doesn't mean they will work if the computer or comms system has gone bad.

I'm considering removing the CEM and inspecting and possibly sending both the CEM and the DIM to be repaired overhauled. I'm wondering about the upper module as well (in the mirror?) That overhead panel has power but if its not communicating with the CEM then I guess that might also be an issue.

So many things it could be. Eyeing a can of beer at the moment but I've not taken enough skin of my knuckles yet. haha
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 16:55   #12
ebo
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:angry_smile:I have
Quote:
Originally Posted by saturnfive View Post
Hello all,

Just went for a short run down to my local shops in my '00 V70 T5. No more than 5 mins drive.

As I'm arriving there is a bang and jolt like I drove over a pothole. I coast to a halt as I realise the power steering not working and the engine is off. No lights on the dashboard and all electrics are off.

Secured the car at the side of the road and find that there is no electrics anywhere. No dashboard lights and no cabin lights when the door is open. The only response is when I turn the key all the way to start. There is a faint sound briefly as if a pump is running or solenoid energised but that is all.

Walked home and preparing to go back with some tools to try to work out what could have caused a total failure like this. Battery seems to be well connected. Will start pulling fuses to see if any are obviously blown but I've no idea where any of the computers are which I could also try reconnecting.

Any ideas what could have caused such a sudden loss of all electrics? Any help greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 16:59   #13
Ripmax
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Hi Saturn,

I've been doing a bit of research on the side, and unfortunately your symptoms seem to point fingers at a bad CEM

I think VIDA is probably your best next step mate... Best of luck, hopefully you can get this sorted.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 17:23   #14
saturnfive
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Thanks ripmax,

I checked the connections under the front seat. All come apart and are clean with no signs of a torn wire from the pins.

Need to work out how to get the CEM off the car. I've seen talk of needing to get the wiper motor off first but I'm not sure that's applicable to this model. v70 T5 '00 model.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 18:25   #15
ASt85
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To follow on from orarex's useful post, it is just possible that the "bump" you felt caused a problem with the antenna ring around the ignition lock barrel + does the vehicle crank?

If not, check that the middle LT terminal to the solenoid is making good contact - if it isn't, you get the click, whirring from pumps & etc but no cranking.
[IMG][/IMG]

In the photo above of the solenoid mounted on top of the starter, the one labelled "12v spade connector to use" is the one you need to clean with emery cloth to make good contact - without that spade terminal clean there is no signal to the solenoid from the antenna ring to engage the starter even if the ring is working properly.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 18:48   #16
saturnfive
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Thanks ASt85,

No cranking. No sign of any electrics inside other than the cabin lights come on for a short period after battery reconnect and the radio operates at ign 1 and 2. Turning the ign to 1 or 2 is when the slight whirring from the engine bay comes on and the electric window module in the drivers door makes a clicking as if it is powered although the windows do not respond. The only switches that have any power at all are the internal light switch and the radio. The light switch goes dead after a couple of minutes as if it's on a timer of some sort but the radio remains live. Turning ign to 3 gives a further click as if something is powered around the starter but does not crank the engine.

Other than that the car is completely dead. No other lights. Nothing whatsoever on the DIM or centre console.

Just about to mark and label the position of all the relays on the CEM and remove it inside to inspect for any obvious corrosion on the board etc.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 20:51   #17
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Just an idea and only an idea,not the same car I know. My missus car had exactly same symptoms as yours. Totally dead toyota yaris. Hunted high and low for a solution couldn't find it. Then went old school gave starter motor solenoid a gentle persuasive clout and it burst into life. Might be worth a try just dont hit any electric bits.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2021, 21:15   #18
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I had something very similar on a friends BMW a long time ago. Turned out to be the fuseable link under the battery connector. It looked fine, but had a hairline crack in it. I only discovered it by checking the voltage drop at various points. The modules in the old BMs were under the back seat and somewhere between the battery and back of the car we were losing several volts. Given there was a cable directly from the battery to the back modules, I started to question my sanity until we found the fuseable link.

Try checking the voltage across the battery, then working away from it to see if the voltage drops anywhere.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2021, 01:09   #19
saturnfive
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12.19 volts across the battery terminals in the boot. 12.19 volts between the +ve post in the engine bay and all of the 7 earth straps I can see easily.

I'm not trying to start it at the moment. The engine was running when this failure occurred so I don't think it's starter motor related. The fact that there are no lights at all on the dashboard is suspicious. 12.19 volts is plenty to power the dashboard lights and it's happily powering the radio which seems to be the only functional part of the electrical system. I'm at a loss as to why no lights on the DIM.

CEM removed and inspected visually.

Absolutely no signs of any water ingress or corrosion. Hard to tell if any components have gone or are dry joint because its covered in some form of protective resin. Nothing obvious though. Pulled the metal cap off the board and looked at the chip. Nothing obvious.

Will remove the DIM in the morning and see what it looks like. Might also try to remove the REM in the boot. The rear side demist has never worked since I bought it two years ago so perhaps there is damage in that board that has spread. Doubtful but it's hard to know where else to look.

Perhaps the positive post in the engine bay is not joining the two cables properly. Doubtful but I will remove in the morning and copper ease them and reconnect.

Last edited by saturnfive; Mar 23rd, 2021 at 01:13.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2021, 01:18   #20
saturnfive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASt85 View Post
To follow on from orarex's useful post, it is just possible that the "bump" you felt caused a problem with the antenna ring around the ignition lock barrel + does the vehicle crank?

If not, check that the middle LT terminal to the solenoid is making good contact - if it isn't, you get the click, whirring from pumps & etc but no cranking.
[IMG][/IMG]

In the photo above of the solenoid mounted on top of the starter, the one labelled "12v spade connector to use" is the one you need to clean with emery cloth to make good contact - without that spade terminal clean there is no signal to the solenoid from the antenna ring to engage the starter even if the ring is working properly.
When you say antenna ring, is this something which is connected to the central locking for security. The central locking is completely dead.
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