longer studs - Page 2

barkster1971 · Oct 15th, 2012, 18:39

The studs would be the same as the existing ones only 25mm longer. I've not got pics as I've not got the spacers yet. The guy said they'd come with bolts put I rang him today and he said he's been trying to get some. Will have to get some pennies knocked off then!
Is the size on Vadis anywhere?

volvoz2000 · Oct 15th, 2012, 18:52

frankly I think we are all a bit confused as to what you have got and what you need.

Hubcentric spacers have their own studs normally so nothing needs changing, just bolt them on with the special nuts and away you go.

naff ebay cheapos require longer studs once you go past about 10mm, and aren't really recommended as they aren't truly hubcentric

barkster1971 · Oct 15th, 2012, 19:33

I'll have to go back to shop to take a pic as the ones I've seen in the shop had 5 recessed holes to use the existing studs and bolts. Then 5 more threaded holes to screw in the supplied bolts. Maybe the bloke was talking boll@&£s ?
Looked like these:-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PDV-HUBCENTR...item2ebfa558d3

barkster1971 · Oct 15th, 2012, 20:07

The H&R ones look like good quality ones to me. Would these be OK. Says 850 but the hub is still 65.1mm yes?
http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/fra...es.asp?code=34

foggyjames · Oct 15th, 2012, 22:07

As I understand it, there are "spacers" and "adaptors".

"Spacers" are used to correct offset or widen track only. They have the same number of holes in them as the number of wheel studs, and you replace the original studs with longer ones to compensate for the longer reach required. They tend to be frowned upon beyond a certain thickness (strength of bolts issue? I'm not a mechanical engineer...), but as long as they're hub-centric and the studs are supported (i.e. the holes are bored only slightly larger than the studs), I can't see an immediate issue.

"Adaptors" have two sets of holes, and as well as correcting offset and widening track, are commonly used to fit wheels of different PCD or even stud pattern. One set of holes is for the original studs (which shouldn't need to be lengthened), while the other set are either threaded (for a second set of wheel bolts), or have a second set of studs pressed into them (for nuts).

Both types can be hub-centric (i.e. the centre-bore is machined to snugly fit the hub), and ideally also machined to have a centre section which precisely fits the centre bore of the wheel. That's about centring the spacer and wheel correctly to avoid vibration.

Back to the original question, if you're using the 10 hole "adaptor" type, you shouldn't need longer studs. If you're using 5 hole "spacers", you will almost certainly need longer studs.

cheers

James

ian2000t · Oct 16th, 2012, 13:28

The way the ones you posted work is that you bolt them to your hub using your normal wheel nuts (you may need to shorten them though). Then you use wheel bolts rather than nuts which screw into the spacer.

Personally I really don't like that idea - relying on a bolt threaded into an aluminium spacer to hold the wheel on.

I went for the expensive ones like Smithy has - there the spacer attaches to the Hub with nuts, and the spacer has it's own studs mounted in it which the wheels then attach to with another set of nuts.

foggyjames · Oct 16th, 2012, 14:27

Interesting point Ian - whether or not the ally thread is sufficiently robust. The thread is usually cut into the steel hub on production cars, albeit a much shorter thread that the spacers will have. I would still worry about stripping over time, especially if impact guns are used liberally!

I'm sure they could make a version to take studs easily enough, Carl...or go for the studded H&R ones.

cheers

James

barkster1971 · Oct 16th, 2012, 15:13

I think the H and R ones are the way forward. Can I have a supplier?
Thanks.

smithy · Oct 16th, 2012, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by barkster1971

I think the H and R ones are the way forward. Can I have a supplier?
Thanks.

Speak to Pete at parts for volvos .com he managed to get mine and he knows the proper number for them and they are also a ipd supplier too mate

rockheadrumble · Oct 16th, 2012, 16:14

I had ali nuts on my evo 6 and they stayed on fine mate. plus you would 25mm of thread to screw in to so it should be plenty strong enough.

joe

Oct 15th, 2012, 18:39	#11
barkster1971 VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:11 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Swineshead/Salford	size The studs would be the same as the existing ones only 25mm longer. I've not got pics as I've not got the spacers yet. The guy said they'd come with bolts put I rang him today and he said he's been trying to get some. Will have to get some pennies knocked off then! Is the size on Vadis anywhere? __________________ new engine! new car!

Oct 15th, 2012, 19:33	#13
barkster1971 VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:11 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Swineshead/Salford	! I'll have to go back to shop to take a pic as the ones I've seen in the shop had 5 recessed holes to use the existing studs and bolts. Then 5 more threaded holes to screw in the supplied bolts. Maybe the bloke was talking boll@&£s ? Looked like these:- http://www.ebay.com/itm/PDV-HUBCENTR...item2ebfa558d3 __________________ new engine! new car! Last edited by barkster1971; Oct 15th, 2012 at 19:46.

Oct 15th, 2012, 20:07	#14
barkster1971 VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:11 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Swineshead/Salford	H&r The H&R ones look like good quality ones to me. Would these be OK. Says 850 but the hub is still 65.1mm yes? http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/fra...es.asp?code=34 __________________ new engine! new car!

Oct 15th, 2012, 22:07	#15
foggyjames 300 Register Keeper Last Online: Jun 7th, 2024 15:35 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Nottingham	As I understand it, there are "spacers" and "adaptors". "Spacers" are used to correct offset or widen track only. They have the same number of holes in them as the number of wheel studs, and you replace the original studs with longer ones to compensate for the longer reach required. They tend to be frowned upon beyond a certain thickness (strength of bolts issue? I'm not a mechanical engineer...), but as long as they're hub-centric and the studs are supported (i.e. the holes are bored only slightly larger than the studs), I can't see an immediate issue. "Adaptors" have two sets of holes, and as well as correcting offset and widening track, are commonly used to fit wheels of different PCD or even stud pattern. One set of holes is for the original studs (which shouldn't need to be lengthened), while the other set are either threaded (for a second set of wheel bolts), or have a second set of studs pressed into them (for nuts). Both types can be hub-centric (i.e. the centre-bore is machined to snugly fit the hub), and ideally also machined to have a centre section which precisely fits the centre bore of the wheel. That's about centring the spacer and wheel correctly to avoid vibration. Back to the original question, if you're using the 10 hole "adaptor" type, you shouldn't need longer studs. If you're using 5 hole "spacers", you will almost certainly need longer studs. cheers James __________________ VOC 300-series Register Keeper '13 V70 D4 SE Lux '89 740 Turbo Intercooler '88 360 Turbo Intercooler '84 360 GLT '81 343 GLS R-Sport '79 343 DL '70 164

Oct 16th, 2012, 13:28	#16
ian2000t Premier Member Last Online: Oct 21st, 2023 20:25 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Halesowen	The way the ones you posted work is that you bolt them to your hub using your normal wheel nuts (you may need to shorten them though). Then you use wheel bolts rather than nuts which screw into the spacer. Personally I really don't like that idea - relying on a bolt threaded into an aluminium spacer to hold the wheel on. I went for the expensive ones like Smithy has - there the spacer attaches to the Hub with nuts, and the spacer has it's own studs mounted in it which the wheels then attach to with another set of nuts. __________________ 1990 Volvo 760 GLE D24TIC ZF22 - 16psi, more fuel, Monark 293 nozzles, 40mm lower, Bilstein TCs, 24/19 ARBs, full Polybushed front, H&R spacers, 17" Titans. Running Veg oil/petrol mix. Past: 1988 Volvo 740 B230E M46, 1991 Volvo 940 B230FB M47

Oct 15th, 2012, 18:52	#12
volvoz2000 Premier Member Last Online: Jun 10th, 2022 11:48 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: reading	frankly I think we are all a bit confused as to what you have got and what you need. Hubcentric spacers have their own studs normally so nothing needs changing, just bolt them on with the special nuts and away you go. naff ebay cheapos require longer studs once you go past about 10mm, and aren't really recommended as they aren't truly hubcentric

Oct 16th, 2012, 14:27	#17
foggyjames 300 Register Keeper Last Online: Jun 7th, 2024 15:35 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Nottingham	Interesting point Ian - whether or not the ally thread is sufficiently robust. The thread is usually cut into the steel hub on production cars, albeit a much shorter thread that the spacers will have. I would still worry about stripping over time, especially if impact guns are used liberally! I'm sure they could make a version to take studs easily enough, Carl...or go for the studded H&R ones. cheers James __________________ VOC 300-series Register Keeper '13 V70 D4 SE Lux '89 740 Turbo Intercooler '88 360 Turbo Intercooler '84 360 GLT '81 343 GLS R-Sport '79 343 DL '70 164

Oct 16th, 2012, 15:13	#18
barkster1971 VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:11 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Swineshead/Salford	hr I think the H and R ones are the way forward. Can I have a supplier? Thanks. __________________ new engine! new car!

Oct 16th, 2012, 16:14	#20
rockheadrumble Senior Member Last Online: Sep 7th, 2020 21:54 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Kendal	I had ali nuts on my evo 6 and they stayed on fine mate. plus you would 25mm of thread to screw in to so it should be plenty strong enough. joe

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