Misc 460 issues - Page 2

ahal · Jan 30th, 2009, 12:36

I'm no expert but what I did with my father's old 440 was to take the radiator out, stick a hose in the right side and give it a good blast of water - same at the left - until the water coming out ran clear. I got a lot of 'orange' crap out of it before it did run clear. Along with a coolant change, maybe bleeding the system of airlocks / flushing and reverse flushing the rad. might be worth trying?

Come to think of it, his car had overheated, causing the car to increase and drop revs on it's own ( no foot needed! ). After the coolant work, it stopped doing this. At least you have a good idea what you are doing with the electrics ... people who know nothing ( majority ) should be imprisoned for messing with electrics!

Regards,

Tony.

veegard · Jan 30th, 2009, 16:06

Yeah, what you're saying is totally right, and pretty much one of the things that happened to me.
I couldn't get the hose clips up without breaking stuff (learned the hard way), they were rusted in place.. So I basically just drained it for coolant, flushed it with water, used radiator flusher, flushed it with water again, then refilled coolant. Problem with the engine revving up and down disappeared again. So, now that I also have fixed my leak, the cooling is excellent.
Don't know how the water pump is doing though, but i have no heating problems as it is now.. But then again, it's Norway, and it's January..

And yeah, I had no choise but to learn the electrical work of the car out and in. Luckily it's fairly simple, wire A comes in, wire B comes out, check resistance to see if it's something weird, then check next sensor. Only thing is my diagnostic tool is dead and the ECU is not possible to test.

B20F · Jan 30th, 2009, 18:41

Most common cause of irratic idle is a dirty idle valve. Here is a howto. easy 20min job. Also take of the hose coming from the airfilter and clean the innards of the throttle housing with carb or brake cleaner, thinner will also do well, and a clean rag. Then put a bottle of injection cleaner in a full tank, put the cleaner in the tank BEFORE you fill her up. Will make her run much sweeter!
http://volvo480.dragons.org.uk/forum...ic.php?t=15569

veegard · Jan 30th, 2009, 18:52

Nice guide, but not really bothered by it anymore now, it runs smooth as long as the cooling is okay. It does misfire from time to time, but idle is fine.
Maybe I should clean the throttle housing though, haven't done that.. But it looked clean last time I checked. Feel like I've been everywhere in this car soon.. But it just keeps throwing problems at me : (
Aanyway, back to fuel consumption brainstorming! Will a leaky exhaust affect the lambda in any way?

ahal · Jan 31st, 2009, 15:51

I'd imagine that a leaky exhaust might give the lambda a false reading and subsequently the engine? I guess it depends on where the leak is.

B20F · Jan 31st, 2009, 16:29

Quote:

It does misfire from time to time

Good very well be a dirty flywheel sensor. it's located next to the joint from the gearbox and engine, below the throttle housing. The sensor is hold down by a half moon shaped bracket hold down with 2 10mm bolts and has a black wire attached. Remove and clean the tip from the sensor with contactspray and an old toothbrush. easy job.

veegard · Feb 1st, 2009, 11:47

It's kinda rare, but it just doesn't run as perfect as a "normal" car would.
Crank sensor is nice and clean, checked it a couple of weeks ago. And rpm representation and idle is normally right on the spot. It gives me a perfect 220ohm value also :>

veegard · Feb 7th, 2009, 00:37

On to another issue, my whole central locking system just seems.. disconnected. The car HAS had a third party DEFA 800 alarm.. and it has been removed before I got it, but just halfway.
Now, I've gotten my diagnostics module to work, but it's not diagnosing ABS and remote alarm / locking at all. Cruise control and turbo I don't have, so those modules aren't active.
Any simple plug in / plug out operation for the whole central locking bit? Would be nice to get it working again if it's a small job and it actually works..

I get 1-1-1 on fuel and srs system. But getting 1-1-1 just means it's not defect, but it can still be dodgy, right?

bvs · Feb 11th, 2009, 10:29

going back to your first post ... a hot wheel might mean that the brake on that side is not released (seized on)
Have you jacked up the car to see if that wheel is easy to turn ?
A brake 'seized on' can also affect car performance etc.
A seized brake can be caused by worn caliper/piston seals or rusty (corroded) caliper jamming the brake pads and stopping them releasing when you take your foot off the brake pedal.
A seized brake will also affect fuel consumption !!

regards baz

veegard · Feb 12th, 2009, 08:38

Hey there, bvs!
It has only happened three times, and it it has always been just fine the next time I drive it!
So.. I haven't really thought about it lately, and haven't jacked it up to check. If it happens again, I'll go check. Until then, I'm just worrying about the fuel consumption in the meanwhile >_>

Jan 30th, 2009, 12:36	#11
ahal Master Member Last Online: May 30th, 2015 05:21 Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Wicklow	I'm no expert but what I did with my father's old 440 was to take the radiator out, stick a hose in the right side and give it a good blast of water - same at the left - until the water coming out ran clear. I got a lot of 'orange' crap out of it before it did run clear. Along with a coolant change, maybe bleeding the system of airlocks / flushing and reverse flushing the rad. might be worth trying? Come to think of it, his car had overheated, causing the car to increase and drop revs on it's own ( no foot needed! ). After the coolant work, it stopped doing this. At least you have a good idea what you are doing with the electrics ... people who know nothing ( majority ) should be imprisoned for messing with electrics! Regards, Tony. __________________ www.volvo400.com

Jan 30th, 2009, 16:06	#12
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	Yeah, what you're saying is totally right, and pretty much one of the things that happened to me. I couldn't get the hose clips up without breaking stuff (learned the hard way), they were rusted in place.. So I basically just drained it for coolant, flushed it with water, used radiator flusher, flushed it with water again, then refilled coolant. Problem with the engine revving up and down disappeared again. So, now that I also have fixed my leak, the cooling is excellent. Don't know how the water pump is doing though, but i have no heating problems as it is now.. But then again, it's Norway, and it's January.. And yeah, I had no choise but to learn the electrical work of the car out and in. Luckily it's fairly simple, wire A comes in, wire B comes out, check resistance to see if it's something weird, then check next sensor. Only thing is my diagnostic tool is dead and the ECU is not possible to test. Last edited by veegard; Jan 30th, 2009 at 16:09.

Jan 30th, 2009, 18:41	#13
B20F Master Member Last Online: Jul 7th, 2016 21:43 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Zeist View Photos By: B20F	Most common cause of irratic idle is a dirty idle valve. Here is a howto. easy 20min job. Also take of the hose coming from the airfilter and clean the innards of the throttle housing with carb or brake cleaner, thinner will also do well, and a clean rag. Then put a bottle of injection cleaner in a full tank, put the cleaner in the tank BEFORE you fill her up. Will make her run much sweeter! http://volvo480.dragons.org.uk/forum...ic.php?t=15569 __________________

Jan 31st, 2009, 15:51	#15
ahal Master Member Last Online: May 30th, 2015 05:21 Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Wicklow	I'd imagine that a leaky exhaust might give the lambda a false reading and subsequently the engine? I guess it depends on where the leak is. __________________ www.volvo400.com

Feb 11th, 2009, 10:29	#19
bvs Blue TD Last Online: Mar 26th, 2011 13:32 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: sussex	going back to your first post ... a hot wheel might mean that the brake on that side is not released (seized on) Have you jacked up the car to see if that wheel is easy to turn ? A brake 'seized on' can also affect car performance etc. A seized brake can be caused by worn caliper/piston seals or rusty (corroded) caliper jamming the brake pads and stopping them releasing when you take your foot off the brake pedal. A seized brake will also affect fuel consumption !! regards baz Last edited by bvs; Feb 11th, 2009 at 10:32.

Jan 30th, 2009, 18:52	#14
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	Nice guide, but not really bothered by it anymore now, it runs smooth as long as the cooling is okay. It does misfire from time to time, but idle is fine. Maybe I should clean the throttle housing though, haven't done that.. But it looked clean last time I checked. Feel like I've been everywhere in this car soon.. But it just keeps throwing problems at me : ( Aanyway, back to fuel consumption brainstorming! Will a leaky exhaust affect the lambda in any way?

Feb 1st, 2009, 11:47	#17
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	It's kinda rare, but it just doesn't run as perfect as a "normal" car would. Crank sensor is nice and clean, checked it a couple of weeks ago. And rpm representation and idle is normally right on the spot. It gives me a perfect 220ohm value also :>

Feb 7th, 2009, 00:37	#18
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	On to another issue, my whole central locking system just seems.. disconnected. The car HAS had a third party DEFA 800 alarm.. and it has been removed before I got it, but just halfway. Now, I've gotten my diagnostics module to work, but it's not diagnosing ABS and remote alarm / locking at all. Cruise control and turbo I don't have, so those modules aren't active. Any simple plug in / plug out operation for the whole central locking bit? Would be nice to get it working again if it's a small job and it actually works.. I get 1-1-1 on fuel and srs system. But getting 1-1-1 just means it's not defect, but it can still be dodgy, right?

Feb 12th, 2009, 08:38	#20
veegard Junior Member Last Online: Mar 5th, 2009 22:11 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rotterdam	Hey there, bvs! It has only happened three times, and it it has always been just fine the next time I drive it! So.. I haven't really thought about it lately, and haven't jacked it up to check. If it happens again, I'll go check. Until then, I'm just worrying about the fuel consumption in the meanwhile >_>

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