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The new versus the old

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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 19:39   #11
froggyted
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Hi Fenton_jd, that's reassuring, and thanks for the info re. the engines. At the moment i'm driving a 2002 S40 2.0 Classic and have had almost no problems in the five years i've owned it (apart from a recent heater blower transistor failure, see separate thread). Mind you, i still can't find a satisfactory seat position!
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 09:11   #12
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I totally agree Iain, mine is an 04 plate with fvsh and nothing major has gone wrong. Fantastic build quality,
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 11:23   #13
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Hi froggyted,

Quote:
Originally Posted by froggyted View Post
i'm gobsmacked by how many recalls the new model S40 has had!
I've been visiting these forums and other Volvo forums in three different languages for over a year now, and i feel safe to say that the most frequent issues with the new S40/V50 can all be summed up as follows:

1. Alternator: factory fitted a Denso 120A alternator where a 150A one should have been.
2. Door harness: Will corrode causing door locking/unlocking problems and incorrect temperatures to be read. Replaced with an updated harness with gold-plated pins.
3. EGR valve: the original one fitted in the 05.2004 models will stick causing anything from misfires, inability to start the engine to limp home modes and sudden loss of power...ect. Was replaced with an upgraded valve.
4. 2006 and higher models had sticky throttle bodies, an upgraded versions has been introduced.
5. If it's a EURO IV engine then it has a DPF filter and there's a separate tank for a diesel additive that ought to be topped up at the dealers and then the control module is reset. At 90,000 miles the DPF is replaced w/new. Whether it's a EURO III,IV or V engine is Identified by reading the VIN number.

That's all that comes to mind at the moment, I'll fill in if i remember other issues.
Most problems and "rants" reported almost always lead to one of the five issues mentioned above. So when you're out buying a used S40, check to see whether those matters have been solved on your potential buy.

Other issues that arise are common to all turbo diesel cars, and are not specific to the 2.0D Volvo S40, for example failing dual mass flywheels, fuel injectors, clutches... ect.

Good luck.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 11:44   #14
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Thank you very much Guru, that's all extremely useful information.

At what sort of mileage would i expect to find problems with fuel injectors, flywheels and, above all, the clutch? (i appreciate that it's all relative to the way the car has previously been driven, but an average figure would be helpful. As far as i know my 2.0 (petrol) Classic still has the original clutch, exhaust, battery etc., with 69k on the clock).
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 18:22   #15
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You're welcome froggyted.

Forgot to mention:
6. The ignition switch, there is a faulty series in circulation, not pretty because, it's not only that the car won't start, but the steering wheel remains locked too, so imagine yourself parking between two cars with the front wheels turned to one direction = very difficult to tow or flatbed.. Volvo will cover the repairs once that switch malfunctions, but only then, and not before so... talk about prophylaxis

As you said, the durability of clutches and flywheels really depends on the driving style, traffic congestion, whether the car was mainly driven within congested cities or on motorways... ect. A friend with a 2.0D V50 had to replace the clutch master cylinder at 184,000km which is about 115,000 miles, but since that cylinder was situated inside the transmission casing, he got to take a look at the clutch plate and reported that it still had lots of life in it. So he replaced only that cylinder.

The life span of an injector really depends on the quality of diesel fuel being used, one full tank of bad diesel can destroy the injectors, good quality diesel will prolong their lifespan, so it's Tesco diesel vs. Shell V power.
In ideal conditions, they should last for at least 170,000 miles.

As a side note, you currently have an 8 year old with only 69k on the clock... So you don't seem to be munching to many miles, are you sure you want a diesel? These cars, especially with the early versions of the DPF aka soot filter will suffer from cold starts and short runs, you'll find yourself making artificial miles just to maintain the car and regenerate the DPF, just a though.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 23:07   #16
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Hi Guru

From what year did Volvo start fitting a prophyl axis on the S40?

Only joking! ;-)

I'm only half convinced about the reliability of the new model: they seem to have been involved in a lot of recalls, and you yourself have supplied quite a list of potential faults. And yet, there's so much that i like about the car that i'll still probably go ahead and buy.....

I bought the present car at 3 years old with only 27k on the clock, so that was a good start. For the last three years i've only done about 9k a year, considerably lower thank i used to cover. This is due to some changes in lifestyle, which are partly down to an endeavour to try and reduce my 'global footprint', and partly to shifting interests.

It's because of the above that i am considering buying a diesel, since i understand these to be more fuel-efficient. However, i don't want too low-powered an engine, since i feel safer in a vehicle that has a decent amount of pulling power for overtaking and emergency manoeuvres. I'd rather have the power there when i need it and drive less miles to compensate for the extra carbon footprint. I'm also considering buying my first ever automatic for reasons previously stated. Therefore, i thought the 2.0 diesel automatic would be the perfect choice, although i haven't yet finalised my decision (will probably be looking to buy in September, since MOT and a major service is due a couple of months later for my current car, including timing belt). I wouldn't mind the D5 but the tax and insurance is prohibitively high. However, what you have said has now got me reconsidering. Are the diesels really problematic in the cold to the point that they won't start (surely not a Volvo?!!) Additionally, at what point did the soot filter cease to be an issue, since i will probably be looking to get the facelifted model introduced, as i understand, in 2007, mainly for the fitted ipod interface? Perhaps i can be convinced that a petrol variant would be best, but at the moment i'm thinking along the lines of a diesel solely for lower running costs (fuel consumption and tax band).
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Old Apr 13th, 2010, 13:09   #17
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So, since you are looking to buy a +2007 model, then most of the listed potential faults shouldn't be of much concern to you. The face-lifted models were given a major dose of antibiotics that cured most of the listed bugs.
You may or may not get a sticky throttle body, but that can't be considered as a cause of concern... the repair is simple and very straightforward.
As for the DPF, perhaps others can kick in some advice as all I know about them is recycled information from the forums. I've been "blessed" with a EURO III engine without a soot filter. One thing i know though, is that it's a concern for most modern diesel car owner, specially Peugeots and Citroens "it was the French who invented this soot trap in the first place." so the matter of its maintenance is not specific to Volvo diesels but to all modern diesel car owners.

If the glow plugs are in good condition, you're using winter diesel and a thin motor oil "Volvo recommends 5W30 A1/A5 B1/B5 motor oil, 0W30 can also be used" then cold starts should be a breeze in the cold winter months. Mine starts at -21C first hand, no problems what so ever. But common rail diesels do need some time to warm up and reach ideal operational temperature, and that's what i meant by "cold starts and short runs".

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Old Apr 14th, 2010, 09:30   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guru View Post
You're welcome froggyted.

Forgot to mention:
6. The ignition switch, there is a faulty series in circulation, not pretty because, it's not only that the car won't start, but the steering wheel remains locked too, so imagine yourself parking between two cars with the front wheels turned to one direction = very difficult to tow or flatbed.. Volvo will cover the repairs once that switch malfunctions, but only then, and not before so... talk about prophylaxis
been there, took 3 AA vans to get the car out.

also on the list
faulty gearbox
cracked sump
steering lock motor
alternator
door harness
ERG
leaking rear washer

would i buy another volvo car "yes"
but the dealer network is rubbish round here and volvo customer services is usless and unhelpful.

Paul
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Old Apr 14th, 2010, 09:52   #19
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If you look at any car for long enough you will find a list of things to look out for. You can drive yourself mad and then never dare to buy anything. Looking at the lists above it sounds terrifying but they probably apply to most cars with many having more issues. These cars are generally well made and should last better than most. That is probably the best you can hope for.
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Old Apr 14th, 2010, 09:53   #20
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I agree, i've had a large number of faults with my S40. I love the car, but what is really letting them down is the customer support and dealer network, it's quite frankly pants.

Faults on my 05 S40 1.8 so far:

New Engine, new EGR valve, new gearbox, new clutch, new power steering, and new aircon compressor (oh and corroded locking wheel nuts!)

And it's in the garage as i write this due to the engine management light being on and no acceleration!

I've paid for very little of the repairs mentioned above because the car was under warranty at the time, but it was still a huge fight with Volvo to get them to pay out or even acknowledge there was a problem.

I'm looking at an Audi next year, lol
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