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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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98 940 2.3lpt auto stalling, not startingViews : 2121 Replies : 56Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 27th, 2020, 10:35 | #11 | |
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When you change the sensor, remove the bolt and put it somewhere safe. Don't go near the hole with the bolt until the new sensor is in. If you want to clean out the threads in the bolt hole, turn the sensor slightly to reveal the bolt hole, squirt penetrating oil into it and on the bolt then run the bolt in and out a few times. Remove the old and insert the new sensor, aligning it with the bolt hole as needed before trying to fit the bolt. You do know you can raise the bonnet completely vertical to help with getting in there?
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Mar 27th, 2020, 10:43 | #12 | |
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah I’ve been working with the bonnet completely vertical and loving it. Ok so what i gather from what your saying is dont drop the bolt down the hole that the sensor goes in? And therefore dont go near the area with bolt in finger tips without the sensor being in place on the bell housing? Thanks |
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Mar 27th, 2020, 10:50 | #13 | |
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Either way it's not something i'd like to contemplate just for the sake of being a bit careful!
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Mar 27th, 2020, 10:55 | #14 | |
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Mar 27th, 2020, 11:10 | #15 |
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I've managed to get milk so far but thanks anyway, was just a case of looking outside my usual list of suspects to buy it from. Thanks for the thought though!
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Mar 27th, 2020, 12:11 | #16 |
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I though you said all the electrics where dieing? Do you mean all the dash lights go out even though the key is still in the run position?
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Mar 27th, 2020, 12:29 | #17 | |
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This morning it started first time when it was cold and i repositioned it on the drive a bit. But I’m not driving it again for a bit because i dont want to break down while we are meant to be staying at home. I have ordered a radio suppression relay and a new fuel pump relay after reading that if either of them fail you can get very similar symptoms. Looking at the amount of greasy dust on mine compared to other bits in the engine bay I’d say they are original and the car is at 154k Thanks for the reply Last edited by zchael6; Mar 27th, 2020 at 12:35. |
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Mar 27th, 2020, 13:12 | #18 | ||
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Have to confess, i didn't make the connection - no pun intended! Quote:
Whatever you do, don't rush out (metaphorically speaking) and buy one as they are all different. You need to check the part number first! I have here (getting in the way of my typing) a late 940 starter switch, the part numbers are 1324628 and 828120 - both apply and both will bring results on the Volvopartswebstore and other sites. The switch part is held on to the back of the ignition barrel by two screws with slotted heads. I'm not 100% sure on the late 940s but i believe you can get to it from underneath by removing the trim panel under the dash and using a torch. I'm sort of wondering on a hunch if somehow the plug on the back of the switch has been pulled loose, perhaps if the instrument cluster has been out at some point? https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...5/9447805.html Part number has been updated to 9447805 ^^^^^. Gives you an idea exactly where it is. Once you know the part number, we can confirm or refute fitment of the one i have. While you're removing it to find the part number, you may find my hunch is correct that the plug is partially off - if so refit it and try it before anything else.
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Mar 27th, 2020, 13:22 | #19 | |
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Mar 27th, 2020, 13:33 | #20 |
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It's a possibility but you've also said it's often cut out when it's cold too. Worth checking this if only to eliminate it from the process.
If it's engine bay temperature it's more likely to be the ignition amplifier module as i think Ash mentioned when he was talking about the CPS further up. The amp module is on an aluminium heatsink plate on the left hand inner wing behind the headlamp. To help eliminate that from the proceedings, certainly on the hot problem, undo the two screws that secure the module to the heatsink and using a non-abrasive cleaner, clean the back of the module and the heatsink where the module mates to it and polsih them up as smooth as possible - don't use sandpaper or similar! Once clean, add a smear of heatsink compound to the back of the module, as you refit it on the heatsink, give it a wiggle to spread the compound more evenly. Same procedure if you fit a new one. Thing is, your warning lights only get their feed from one place and that's the ignition switch, although it does go through the fusebox to the instrument cluster/warning lights. However the only thing that adds up if you lose the ignition and fuel as well as all dash lights/instruments is the ignition switch as it's the only common part.
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