Engine: TD: 2.5 TDI fuel pump timing mark / base settings

[RiPsTa33]

Yes thats correct option a, you also get about 4º adjustment i believe (off the top of my head) on the bottom adjuster. The top one was is just a tensioner but the bottom tensioner adjusts the timing by about 4º so before you move the belt adjust it all the way up and try it then all the way down and try it as the old belt will have been stretched and th new belt will have adjusted the timing as the pump and camshaft pulleys will be closer together. I hope this is making sense. Its trial and error but you will get it in the end and just need to persist. You should be able to get it started using this method but once its running it will need to go on a computer to do the dynamic timing which is where moving the camshaft pulley comes into effect as i think 1 tooth is about 20º and you only get 4º on the tensioner adjustment. Remember to recheck the top tensioner everytime you adjust the bottom one.

[Turbodave]

Originally Posted by RiPsTa33

Yes thats correct option a, you also get about 4º adjustment i believe (off the top of my head) on the bottom adjuster. The top one was is just a tensioner but the bottom tensioner adjusts the timing by about 4º so before you move the belt adjust it all the way up and try it then all the way down and try it as the old belt will have been stretched and th new belt will have adjusted the timing as the pump and camshaft pulleys will be closer together. I hope this is making sense. Its trial and error but you will get it in the end and just need to persist. You should be able to get it started using this method but once its running it will need to go on a computer to do the dynamic timing which is where moving the camshaft pulley comes into effect as i think 1 tooth is about 20º and you only get 4º on the tensioner adjustment. Remember to recheck the top tensioner everytime you adjust the bottom one.

Ahhh right, yes indeed it does make sense.

The lower tensioner has been off and refitted with the adjustor cam maxxed out 'clockwise' if that makes sense. I'll try adjusting it first and if that doesn't work, I'll try moving the belt. That said, I couldn't actually see a timing mark for the lower tensioner on the block / head so I'm unsure if it's even in the correct place.

I have somebody who can set the timing up correctly however it'd make my life a hell of a lot easier if I could drive it there but I'm just weighing up the options. Time is against me this week so it's a case of do I spend a couple or hours and get it running and then drive it to a specialist or just save myself some time / hassle / stress and get it recovered straight there and let them worry about it.

I'm tending to lean towards the latter, on that note I'll give them a ring and see what sort of money is involved in picking it up and getting it running.

Appreciate your advice. I'll be back!

[Turbodave]

It's alive!

Rang a mate (ex Volvo) and was advised to ignore Autodata and start again. So, make sure everything lines up TDC and then totally ignore the timing mark on the diesel pump and the n/s cam pulley. As in ignore them, they don't exist.

Fitted the lower tensioner so the pointer was half way on the raised section on the block. Fitted the new top tensioner and set the pointer on the mark. Unlocked the pump and took a patience pill.

Loosened off the n/s cam pulley bolt and then started turning it anti-clockwise one tooth at a time - and so in turn, move the diesel pump back at the same time. One tooth, nip up the bolt, tun it over. One tooth, nip up bolt, turn it over and so on for about 20 minutes until it clattered into life.

Put the engine back on TDC and then marked the cam pulley to the cam cover and the diesel pump pulley to the pump for future reference. Then, again loosened off the cam pulley nut and just tweaked the pulley clock wise and anti-clockwise until it sounded ok and wasn't reeking like an old Cummins.

So, sorted... well at least running and sounding ok to be fair. Actually, sounding better than it did before the belt stripped. Less clattered when revved now. Next step, up to the local diesel specialist on Monday to have them set the pump timing dynamically to make sure it's 100% spot on.

Total costs so far:

Timing belt - £10.50
Upper tensioner - £37.00

Given the AA dragged it 300 miles home from Blackpool, the money saved in fuel has paid for the repairs. So it's not cost me anything.

Man logic!

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Turbodave

tweaked the pulley clock wise and anti-clockwise until it sounded ok and wasn't reeking like an old Cummins

Classic !

[Turbodave]

Right well, aye... hmmm...

Drove it home yesterday and having puffed a bit blue reek for the first mile or two, it settled down but has absolutely no power. I'm tempted to have a play around with the timing again but it's booked into Ron Sealey's on Thursday so I may just leave it alone. Problem is, I'd rather get it as near as dammit to save some labour costs.... I detest the thought of having to spend money on this car, especially when I could do it myself if I had access to the right tools.

I take it Volvo FCR won't have the facility to do this?

[green van man]

MMMM I think you have done well to get this far. When I baught my V70 it could not be comfirmed that the belts had been changed when due so supplying garage did them, this garage is an independant Audi specalist and as this is an Audi derived engine would of thought no problem, WRONG, after 3 days of trying they towed the car to the local volvo dealer to time up. It would appear that with the volvo locking tools it takes 10 minuits to set it up, without them it may never happen.
No dought others will say it can be done because they have done it, but I decided descresion was the better part of valour and put car into volvo dealer when belts were again due. I am more than happy to change the timeing belt on the landrover but that is a car you can see what you are doing, the volvo gets sent to the garage as I fear the cost of a **** up.

Paul.

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Turbodave

I take it Volvo FCR won't have the facility to do this?

Yes it will. You need 1.7+ for pump timing live data.

You could borrow mine if you weren't so far away.

[Turbodave]

Originally Posted by green van man

MMMM I think you have done well to get this far. When I baught my V70 it could not be comfirmed that the belts had been changed when due so supplying garage did them, this garage is an independant Audi specalist and as this is an Audi derived engine would of thought no problem, WRONG, after 3 days of trying they towed the car to the local volvo dealer to time up. It would appear that with the volvo locking tools it takes 10 minuits to set it up, without them it may never happen.
No dought others will say it can be done because they have done it, but I decided descresion was the better part of valour and put car into volvo dealer when belts were again due. I am more than happy to change the timeing belt on the landrover but that is a car you can see what you are doing, the volvo gets sent to the garage as I fear the cost of a **** up.

Paul.

I've been sailing close to the wind with this car for months. There's no recorded belt change and I've done 40,000 miles in it since buying. I was working on the theory that the car was cheap, changing the belts wasn't and thus it was economically viable - I'd rather buy another car.

The main drive belt (ie, driver side) slipped it's tensioner before Christmas and having done some reading, it seemed setting up the timing was a nightmare as the bottom pulley covers said tensioner so needs removed, but as the crank isn't splined etc, getting it all back on in the same place is impossible. In the end, I just retightened it in situ using a BMW viscous fan spanner. Touch wood, it's been fine though the belt does run off centre randomly.

The injection pump belt; the tensioner failed there too or slipped or broke... who knows. So in turn it stripped the teeth on the belt. Again I did some reading and got bogged down in technical jargon and differences of opinions. Again, because the cam pulley can be infinitely adjusted, I figured it was a specialist job. I was ready to give up, weigh it in and buy a Saab Aero but held out, ignored locking the pump up and instead just moved the pump and pulley back approx 10deg at a time until it started.

Granted, it was bit of a faff but it now runs however has very little power. I did debate going out last night to play around with the timing to see if I could make it drive a bit better, however as it needs set up dynamically regardless, I figured I'd just leave it to the experts as I don't have the facilities to set it up 100% myself, however...

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Yes it will. You need 1.7+ for pump timing live data.

You could borrow mine if you weren't so far away.

....if this is possible, then I'm tempted to cancel my booking and check and see if I can have the correct version and if so, I'd have a go myself - more so because I'm tighter than two coats of varnish and thus, loathe paying others to fix things I could probably do myself! Unfortunately I'm dropping the car off straight from work, so now I'm sat debating if I should check if I can do it myself or just accept the costs and leave it to the specialists.

So far it's cost me around £50, said specialist thinks an hour will be enough so I'm hoping it should be back on the road and running for under £100. That said, it does still need the main belt, tensioner and water pump replaced but like the chap above, it seems that without the correct tools it too can be an absolute nightmare to do. part of me thinks run it till it dies and then scrap it, part of me thinks it'd be worth doing... then again, clutch ain't clever either.

Bloody decisions decisions!

[Turbodave]

It's now at Ron Sealey Volvo in Cowdenbeath...

I've since started pacing the floor like an expectant father.

[Turbodave]

It's now back from Ron Sealey in Cowdenbeath.

Seemingly the timing was so far out, they weren't sure how it was even running so some adjusting later and some electronic wizardry and it's all sorted now and touch wood, running great.

In fact, it's noticeably quicker than it was before it died. It's noticeably smoother and stronger lower down the rev range. Prior to the belt going, it was fine but it tended to be 'not much, not much, not... turbo!' whereas now it seems to pull from much lower revs, much harder and with less of a nothing / boost too. I'll be interested to see how the fuel economy does from here on too.

And on a slight side note, I'd highly recommend Ron Sealey and specifically Mark