Engine 850: B5234TR/2.3/20v/T5R: How to replace your Cam/Timing belt

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by theprancingmoose

Jodt5

Excellent 1st class write up, really appreciate how you went about explaining the difficult sections. Good clear pictures and easy to follow guide. This has given me confidence to try it myself.

Thanks
PM

thanks pm....not being a expert mechanic as such i recognise the areas where either specialist tools or tool fabrication is required...this is not information that can be gleened unless you have carried out the operation yourself....i have no problem passing on tips i have learned thro trial and error, cut hands and twisted fingers...after all thats should be what the forum as a whole should be about....
cheers
jod

[GregE102]

Originally Posted by jod t5

rich is a legend, greg and yes the water pump was replaced but this will be subject to a different how to do that i will do tommorrow....
As you can see the existing pump was leaking, from the lower part of the gasket...however the main reason for replacing the pump is to reduce the risk of bearing failure that is the main cause of pump failure..I would always replace the pump at belt change irrespective of its apparent condition....
cheers
jod

Thanks Jod

What a great Help.
You should be a teacher "Now class pay attention take the ratchet with the 1/2" drive and and 12mm socket and remove the top nut" LOL
Thanks Jod I look forward the read.
Regards
Greg

[ian ferguson]

Hi Jod, I really enjoyed reading your post and the pictures,so much so, I might try it assuming it's similar on a 2.5D, But not until the summer, cold and bashed hands are to much to bear. Regards Ian. Ps. bought a new fridge and the old one started to work again before the new arrived.

[SIAMBLUE]

Originally Posted by jod t5

thanks gary.....its the second one i have done, but i have never left the aux pulley on before...an interesting experience...lol....
if you want my advice gary.., check out braydons prices first.....PITA it is lol....
all the best mate
cheers
jod
ps you still unavailable on the 11th?....

Yes Jod looks that way unless i can arrange the Birthday party for later than 3pm lol, will let you know

Gary.

[ShadeTek]

Excellent write -up Jod and thanks for that. One question, I did my belt years ago but I don't recall anything about a plastic spacer you mentioned? Where did it go? Also does this website have it's own "How to do pages" like Volovospeed? If not, it's time to start one.

[johnmorl]

Originally Posted by ian ferguson

, I might try it assuming it's similar on a 2.5D, .

If you mean the diesel then there's only one camshaft to line up. You can fit a cam locking bar in place by removing the cam sprocket at the injection pump end, having marked everything first. Alternatively, you can just mark everything with tippex having established TDC first. I don't think it's possible to do it without removing the aux pulley - this is much bigger on the diesel as it also forms a vibration damper. To take off the aux (ribbed belt) you just need a 16mm spanner on the lug. Refer to the Audi A6 Haynes manual, and the pics I posted here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=30506 may be helpful, if leaking oil doesn't make you squemish. I'd say the diesel has even less room to work than the petrols. If you have an auto you might want to fabricate a tool to hold the vibration damper still while you remove the crankshaft bolt, on a manual you can put it in gear and get someone to put a foot on the brake. An air impact wrench works well too.
I chickened out of doing mine as I don't possess an air impact wrench (missed the cheap ones in Aldi!) and the way things turned out with my oil leak I'm kind of glad it's in the hands of a pro. If you've got time and a good place to work I'd say have a go.
Good to change the water pump too, and you might want to look at the crank seal if you've got a lot of miles up as it's only £7.

[ian ferguson]

Thanks for the information John. It's a manual diesel and it's dropping oil, I know it's losing oil from the power steering because I have to top it up now and again, but it could dripping engine oil as well. Regards Ian

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by GregE102

Thanks Jod

What a great Help.
You should be a teacher "Now class pay attention take the ratchet with the 1/2" drive and and 12mm socket and remove the top nut" LOL
Thanks Jod I look forward the read.
Regards
Greg

lol, i have a bit of a bossy nature i accept....i will reply to your pm's tommorrow greg, first thing
cheers
jod

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by SIAMBLUE

Yes Jod looks that way unless i can arrange the Birthday party for later than 3pm lol, will let you know

Gary.

come on gaz, pull something out the bag...don, marco , wayne , pedro ,mo not to mention the others..you will be missing out big styleeee....
cheers
jod

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by ian ferguson

Hi Jod, I really enjoyed reading your post and the pictures,so much so, I might try it assuming it's similar on a 2.5D, But not until the summer, cold and bashed hands are to much to bear. Regards Ian. Ps. bought a new fridge and the old one started to work again before the new arrived.

lol...hi ian, my tractor knowledge as johnmorl will confirm is very limited....i would expect judgeing by johns description it is another nasty job...i know jon aka v70windsurfer and reactiveprism aka tony have carried out this proceedure recently on the audi engine, they may be able to shed some light...
cheers
jod