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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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V6 not startingViews : 12522 Replies : 76Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 16th, 2020, 18:05 | #11 | |
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When we ordered the fuel distributor kit it came with 1200 grit sandpaper but no sealant. We used the sandpaper to surface the faces. We had some of the non sealing sealant on the self here which was a similar type recommended with the kit. Once I can get back on to the car and get some higher fuel pressure through I am expecting some leakage at the injectors! As yet I haven't been able to get back onto the Volvo due to an unforeseen illness which has left me home bound since the weekend but recovering slowly. No, this wasn't the one that was at auction, or at least I don't think so, bought it in October and it has 127,000 mls on it. It is LHD model. |
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Dec 16th, 2020, 19:10 | #12 | |
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You can bypass the fuel pump relay to get the pump to run constantly to check pressure and to start the engine overriding the safety system. If it starts the relay is faulty. Common problem. |
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Dec 16th, 2020, 20:37 | #13 | |
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Once we sorted this we had fuel at the engine bay filter and into the fuel distributor. This was where we decided to crank it over to see if it would start. It fired up on easy start then after a few more cranks the engine started but as I said ran on the right hand bank. We didn't run it for too long as the top rad hose is missing and no water in the system. I think it was only running off the cold start solenoid? We also noticed that the fuel distributor was leaking between the two halves and fuel was only dribbling out of the left banjo coupling which fed the left hand bank. That's when we bought the new kit and pulled apart the unit only to find that some one had been in there before and one of the small tops off the spring was not where it should have been and had punctured a hole in the tin gasket. I replaced everything that was in the kit and reassembled the unit, we then had fuel pressure from the fuel distributor although not what I thought would be great pressure. The car started again after a squirt of easy start, then stopped again, after a few tries it would fire on about 3 cylinders and kind of run roughly on fuel. There was no leaking from the fuel distributor which was good. Then it just would not start. But did on easy start. We pulled the injectors out and blew high pressure through them, 3 sprayed out fuel fairly evenly 2 injectors made loud squealy sound like half blocked and one would not blow through at all. I am going to check the fuel pump under the car as we have been informed that there is a high pressure pump there and would like to check to see if this is working as well. Will also by pass the relay as you have suggested just to make sure there are no leaks or find leaks. But I am sure it will defiantly need injectors as you say and will be first port of call to source some as they are fairly easy obtained here. Many Thanks Pete |
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Dec 17th, 2020, 22:57 | #14 |
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Tank pump will pump no matter the polarity. There is a high pressure pump and accumulator under the Rear LH floorpan. Easy start and WD40 along with Hammerite should be condemned to corners of hell.
You will need to buy the seals separately |
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Dec 17th, 2020, 23:20 | #15 |
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It will run regardless of polarity, however it won't shift sufficient liquid if connected the wrong way! It is only a lift pump after all but to move the necessary amount of liquid, needs to be correctly connected.
The pressure pump is usually a roller cell type, similar in general principle of operation to a medical peristaltic pump but not quite the same, just helps with a visualisation of what is happening inside the roller cells. That certainly won't pump anything connected the wrong way round!
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Dec 20th, 2020, 12:32 | #16 |
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Hi Guys, Many thanks for your responses.
Just an up date. The high pressure pump I found was to be working after the few swift taps of the hammer Though it seemed to be screaming its head off as we cranked the car over. It still had the same pressure at the fuel distributor, so I disconnected the main fuel pipe from the pump to the engine bay filter and blew compressed air through the line. The result, now a cleared line as it blew out bits that looked like nutshell fragments I removed all the lines and blew the air through them all, we now have good pressure from the high pressure pump. Put it all back together to have very good fuel pressure at the fuel distributor inlet from the main feed. There is still only very low pressure coming out of the Fuel distributor, not what I would expect to open the injectors. The odd thing is that the car tries to start and will run for a second or too. No Easy start either! Condemned to back of garage There is quite a lot of fuel pressure being returned to the tank too when cranking it over. I am now wondering if the main fuel feed line from the filter is bolted to the fuel distributor in the wrong place. The main return and main feed pipes in are the same size and as the system has been messed with before we took it apart wouldn't surprise me Until we have fuel at the injectors I don't really want to spend the money on new injectors just yet. I will try and google a photo of the fuel distributor laid out and go from there. Also just thinking reading this back to myself, might have some of the crushed nut shells trapped in the fuel distributor Yes the in-tank ump did work although the wires were wrongly connected as positive earth it was working backwards. Pete |
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Dec 20th, 2020, 12:39 | #17 |
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I think you've come up with a diagnosis there Pete, blockage between the fuel filter (possibly in the filter itself, worth changing for the sake of a few quid) and also possibly the pressure valve inside the fuel distributor is stuck. You could try a bit of percussive maintenance with the hammer in the area of the valve on the fuel dizzy, did you add the ATF to the tank?
You could also clamp off the return line to "dead-end" the fuel pressure so you get maximum pressure from the pump through the fuel dizzy and see if that forces out any more rust flakes (nut sheel particles) but don't do this with the injectors in the inlet manifold as you don't want any of those rust flakes getting inside the engine!
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Dec 20th, 2020, 12:52 | #18 | |
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Next week I will get back onto the Volvo, We have by-passed the fuel filter in the engine bay for now. I'll let you know how I get on. |
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Dec 23rd, 2020, 00:06 | #19 |
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I have good news, the Volvo runs now........What was wrong, well..............Many years ago, well 26 years to be exact I had a Peugeot 604 fitted with the same 2.7litre V6 I also had some running issues, turned out that the fuel I was using wasn't of a high enough octane and it suffered from lack of power, all the unburnt fuel started flooding the exhaust system until the muffler exploded and the car just died. I tried to get the car started without any joy, I removed the spark plugs to find them wet. I contacted the original owner who purchased the car new as he was a Peugeot Specialist to talk to him about the way the car was running and that I had only just bought the car less than a month ago from a different owner. The first thing he said to me, 'What fuel are you using'? 92 Octane I said, to which he replied, don't use that fuel, you have to use a minimum 96 Octane! He said that the lower quality fuel doesn't burn effectively and you end up with poor running and excess unburn fuel collecting in the exhaust pipes. He said change the spark plugs and use higher quality fuel, after that I never had any further problems. My mate borrowed the car for a weekend and put low octane fuel in the car, after he returned the car it wasn't running well at all and finally broken down, though it was trying to start it just wouldn't run. Eventually I asked my mate what fuel he had put in it. Low quality cheap octane!! Great I fitted new spark plugs and had better quality fuel before it would start again.
A bit long winded my story here but the gist of the matter was that I put new spark plugs into the Volvo and the engine started, revved up, idled, no fuel leaks from any of the outer lines or Fuel distributor. I just recalled all the starting problems I had with the other V6 and remembered what I had done to sort it. Thanks again guys for your help on this. |
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Mar 26th, 2021, 12:15 | #20 |
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I haven't gone any further with the V6 and I am now about to free up the seized front calliper's, looks like the pistons have got rust around them.
Will keep you up dated and if I need any bits I am sure the guys on here will be able to help. I am sure the front calliper's are the same as the 244's? Cheers Peter |
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