Electrics: Hardwire a Dash Cam

[cassell]

Any ideas what that fuse is for?


F33 20A Vacuum Pump (Haynes manual 12.36 wiring diagrams)

[swxc90]

The electrician that fitted mine, installed a power connector (same as the 12v in the dash) above the interior light unit by the mirror, plugged in the power connector that would normally go into the 12v plug and tidied up the cables. I have a short amount coming out by the mirror to the camera.

The feed is taken off the interior lights which is live all the time when the car is running and powers off within a minute of the keys being removed.

He advised to do this, because the unit I have has a voltage regulator built into the power plug and his advice was to keep that in the loop.

[bokabil]

More on these fuses...

I know the manual has a list of the fuse name and location. I also know Fuse #11 is not permanent live.

Is there another fuse that is also not permanent live? Is there a list from Volvo showing which ones are permanent and those not?

Thanks.

[daveo19]

Originally Posted by A lex

For a phone charger it (perhaps) wouldnt cause issues.... but we are discussing dahscams, where a permanent live causes the camera to be always on....

Hi guys

Just out of interest why are you guys seemingly avoiding permanent live connection?

(Read on... maybe I've answered my own question!)

The power draw of the Thinkware f750 I'm looking at is 3.5w at 12 volts. i.e.... approx 0.3 aH.

I'm about to buy a V40 and the stock battery is rated to 70Ah... so that works out at 210 hours - or approx 9 days of "ignition off" before it drains a fully-charged battery - not enough time to park for 2 weeks at the airport when going on holiday!

Anybody happen to know if in "ignition off" mode on these cameras drop into their own low power state and only record when movement is detected?

I've asked ThinkWare tech support if in parking-mode the device runs in a low power 'detection' mode? i.e. GPS/recording is disabled whilst movement is not detected (and hence less aH consumed when parked up) - and device just wakes up when it needs to record movement.

Is there anything I can drop inline to the hardwire kit just turn it all off when the car battery power gets low (i.e. I don't want to particularly be unable to start my car at 3am after a long flight from a 2 week holiday and a grumpy wife/kid on tow)?

All advice appreciated!

Dave

[Gazzza]

this is sooooo easy

Remove the radio as per normal at the back of the unit where the 12v power supply



is that we use for phone ...sat nav and cut the wires and insert the electrical connector blocks



this way you can connect loads of items ( do not go over the rated rating of the MAIN fuse )

and make sure this lead that comes off is also fitted with an inline fuse


Now when we switch the car off NO POWER DRAIN because the socket is DEAD ..


So now every time we start the car dash cam goes live and the sat nav and the phone charger ...love it

[Gazzza]

Originally Posted by cassell

Any ideas what that fuse is for?


F33 20A Vacuum Pump (Haynes manual 12.36 wiring diagrams)

Yep the fuse box is made for all volvo cars and some things are connected and some are not.
Like if you have a petrol car the one that says heater plugs wont have a fuse in it because its for a Diesel and this one re the pump like mine we have a mechanical one i.e NOT electric

and also I dont have a sun roof in mine but putting a fuse in the sunroof fuse holder still don't work and then looking at the roof ... hmm still no sun roof must be a bad fuse ...PMSL

[Simon Jones]

Piggy back fuses are the way forward for ease and reliability. No need to remove any modules or chopping and rejoining of cables. Also has the advantage that it's then isolated from the supplying circuit's fuse. If you were to use the chocolate block method from rear of 12v socket and then plugged in dodgy charger lead into the socket, you'd blow the lighter socket fuse and loose power to the supply that has been spurred off it.

[Gazzza]

Hmm disagree on that as the 12v socket is a good power feed....

The chance of not blowing that fuse are 99.9% ..

Now people could just plug that into any fuse in the car and 99.9% may just do that ..

I guess if you wanted to go try your route Simon I suggest they tap into fuse 11 and still be safe

As this is the 12v socket feed only and nothing else connected to it ( check your car manual incase Fuse 11 is NOT the 12v socket )

[Simon Jones]

A mate of mine is an auto electrician and the most common problem he gets in his workshop is blown fuses on 12v accessory / lighter sockets because the owner has plugged in sat nav / phone lead and managed to short out both parts of the socket. As long as you never use the socket for anything then you're probably 100% safe.

The other thing to be mindful is that when it comes to selling the vehicle, it's simpler to unplug piggy back fuse and leave no trace of any modification. Having bought a Japanese import which previous owners had fitted loads of extras, it took hours to remove the extra cabling, choc blocks, ScotchLoks and bullet connectors, and then make good all the damaged wiring.

[Gazzza]

Originally Posted by Simon Jones

A mate of mine is an auto electrician and the most common problem he gets in his workshop is blown fuses on 12v accessory / lighter sockets because the owner has plugged in sat nav / phone lead and managed to short out both parts of the socket. As long as you never use the socket for anything then you're probably 100% safe.

The other thing to be mindful is that when it comes to selling the vehicle, it's simpler to unplug piggy back fuse and leave no trace of any modification. Having bought a Japanese import which previous owners had fitted loads of extras, it took hours to remove the extra cabling, choc blocks, ScotchLoks and bullet connectors, and then make good all the damaged wiring.

blown fuses.... really .....wow