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How much to repair?

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Old Nov 23rd, 2014, 22:33   #11
Suterman
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you could try lakes or breakeryard.com for the gearbox,

If its always dripped and hasn't got any worse I'd leave it.
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Old Nov 24th, 2014, 19:35   #12
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The gearbox tail shaft bearing is a common problem for wear when worked hard. If you do much towing then you will be best to add an extra oil cooler.

If seen them badly worn but never cause a vibration.

My money would be on an issue with the prop like a dry UJ or a problem with the center bearing
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Old Nov 24th, 2014, 21:21   #13
volvo always
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
The gearbox tail shaft bearing is a common problem for wear when worked hard. If you do much towing then you will be best to add an extra oil cooler.

If seen them badly worn but never cause a vibration.

My money would be on an issue with the prop like a dry UJ or a problem with the center bearing
Thanks everyone The garage didn't phone me today so phoned them and the workshop manager is supposed to call back tomorrow.

I have been in contact by email and on the phone to a Volvo specialist and he has suggested the tail shaft bearing. He said it used to be available from Volvo but wasn't sure if it still was so I'm contacting FRF Tomorrow.
My car has done 207,000 miles and certainly seems like it has never had a tow bar. I do drive it generally quite hard though with hard acceleration and using the kickdown!
The RAC diagnosed the prop centre bearing and due to the initial 2-3 weeks wait for a new centre bearing from volvo had fitted a used prop. This may be knackered anyway?
Could it be the wrong prop from a manual and not an automatic or are they both the same?
What I'm thinking is have it towed to the Volvo specialist and let them sort it. They can fit a new gearbox supplied by me for £90 labour+vat and fluids. It's just finding a new gearbox if it is the gearbox after they have looked at it. If I can't get a gearbox may get it converted to manual although I like the autobox.

Many thanks James

Last edited by volvo always; Nov 24th, 2014 at 21:23.
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Old Nov 24th, 2014, 21:52   #14
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The manual prop has a longer front half and would not the auto.

The bearing or more accurately the bush in the tail shaft will normally only cause the oil leak. My dad was going to order one this year but opted to change the box I think. His had got so bad it was leaving big puddles on the floor and needed topping up daily or even twice daily.

Is the vibrate the same as what it was before or differnt now?
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Old Nov 24th, 2014, 22:01   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
The manual prop has a longer front half and would not the auto.

The bearing or more accurately the bush in the tail shaft will normally only cause the oil leak. My dad was going to order one this year but opted to change the box I think. His had got so bad it was leaving big puddles on the floor and needed topping up daily or even twice daily.

Is the vibrate the same as what it was before or differnt now?
When they called to say it's fixed I would say much worse as in un driveable as loud banging and vibrating coming from under the gear lever in like a rhythmic pattern. You can hear it outside the car too, but better in reverse.

Thanks, James

Last edited by volvo always; Nov 24th, 2014 at 22:04.
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Old Nov 24th, 2014, 22:09   #16
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Fairly clear it is not the gearbox then.

It must be an issue with something they have done on the prop.
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Old Nov 25th, 2014, 20:02   #17
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I phoned the towing company and they said the same problems as below and needed a specialist to sort it. As a gesture of good will they transported the car 12 miles to the Volvo specialists and it is the rear output shaft bearing and seal and some support rubber is extremely perished allowing massive play.

Getting it done One part was the last in the country! Can't wait to get my 240 back and from the costs given too me not that costly thankfully!

James
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Old Nov 27th, 2014, 22:31   #18
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The Saga continues.

Got a call from the Volvo specialist to say my car is fixed so got a taxi to the garage, paid the £219.00. Had a used rear output tail housing fitted and a new gearbox mounting. The dealer sorted a drivers window issue, it had come out the track due to loose bolts on the motor.
Pulled away and on pulling away the knocking was still there, so drove on a test drive and it did it a few times while accelerating away.
Returned to the specialist and we both went on a test drive and to be fair to the specialist if you drove it like a granny it didn't knock/bang. Only under moderate/ brisk acceleration would it knock/bang sounds right under the gear lever.
He inspected the engine mountings and there is a lot of movement in them. I could see the mountings separate from the rubber so going to get a new pair fitted.
What are your thoughts? It does make sense if the engine twists the gearbox and it knocks against the transmission tunnel.
I drove it gently the 12 miles back home and it did knock a few times more so going round bends and pulling away. On the straight doing 55mph it drove fine with no knocking.
Ordered 2 new engine mounts from FRF and should get them Monday. It may be it's a combination of numerous faults all creating the knock like worn prop centre bearing, rear tail housing and gearbox mount.
I'm hoping this is the cure as it will of cost £330.00 so far.

James
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Old Nov 28th, 2014, 18:39   #19
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James on my manual , I did the two engine mounts with cumbrianmale . On manuals there is, I understand another similar mount on the gearbox . Does the auto have one too? Just throwing another thought into the pot.
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Old Nov 28th, 2014, 22:11   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul240480 View Post
James on my manual , I did the two engine mounts with cumbrianmale . On manuals there is, I understand another similar mount on the gearbox . Does the auto have one too? Just throwing another thought into the pot.
Hi, Yes the automatic box does have a gearbox mount which has been replaced. Hope the new engine mounts do the trick.
Went on a careful 10 mile drive to the supermarket and it knocked twice one while pulling away going uphill, the other turning left going uphill. Seems accelerating uphill and random turning makes it knock and the odd knock on the level. Reverse doesn't seem to knock.

James
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