U.S. Build P1800. LS1 (V8) 5-Speed, Flush Mount Glass Kit

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by Colonel Froth

What's actually being done to improve the geometry? Have you shortened the upper wishbones? Have Paul Horton's said what they're going to do exactly? Thanks

Paul Horton's will figure out what they need to do, as soon as they recieve it. I am putting it together, so they know where all the components need to be placed. Again, we are attempting to make this system work with NO Cutting to the body, so they need hard references to ensure the final product does just that...

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Well I guess this has been a learnine experience.. I sent some picture to the people that is going to do the Crossmember manufacturing, and of course I had it wrong.. I had the upper control arms at a wrong angle, so I have redone it today. Here are the pictures.. The frame just slides right in and bolts up, I cant wait to get a pretty one..

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Well, I finally got the Volvo set on the ground, it got dark, so I couldnt roll it out in the parking lot for pictures. The front end looks like it is going to work awsome, and it really opened up the engine bay.. It literally just slides under the car with ease, so I think it will be something a novice can do without a whole lot of issue, once the kits are offered.

My firewall is cut, but it isnt necessary.. I had to cut it for the 2jz Supra motor, that is why I am going with the LS1. We will have some engine stand that will support the factory Volvo motor in the crossmember.

I also see the Air Dam is going to have to be dialed in a bit, that is why I really want to roll it outside for a real world perspective.

[lukeball]

With that straight-on shot, the car looks great. I really like those bumpers.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by lukeball

With that straight-on shot, the car looks great. I really like those bumpers.

I think so to.. They have grown on me a bit.. I definitely see the lower part of the air dam needs some work, along with the outer corners. Thing flow better up close, but when you are able to stand back WOW, that wasnt what I saw before.. LOL

[Derek UK]

If you're touting this X-member as a conversion for "standard" 1800 owners on the basis that ,although an expensive investment, it will allow cheaper parts replacement, especially calipers and discs, it would be good to see the original engine back in its proper place. i.e. positioned so that the standard cooling and exhaust systems bolt straight up. That way it could be seen that you have overcome the problem of interference of the front of the engine, crank pulley etc with a steering rack. Being able to position R&P steering to give correct geometry has always been a problem which is why there aren't any cars running it. I seems to be simple conversion but problems quickly show themselves. An MII type of X-member can cure the problem of interference between the top A arm inner mounts and the exhaust manifolds on a V8 and for the handful of people who might want to do this, it'll be good news.
The standard steering in good condition is fine except at parking speeds IMO so not an issue with me.
I could envisage a conversion which swapped the tubular A arms over onto the existing Volvo cross member, possible on an exchange basis so that the adaptation was done safely and accurately. Converting that way would give plenty of choice of brakes and ball joints, with a wide range of prices.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

If you're touting this X-member as a conversion for "standard" 1800 owners on the basis that ,although an expensive investment, it will allow cheaper parts replacement, especially calipers and discs, it would be good to see the original engine back in its proper place. i.e. positioned so that the standard cooling and exhaust systems bolt straight up. That way it could be seen that you have overcome the problem of interference of the front of the engine, crank pulley etc with a steering rack. Being able to position R&P steering to give correct geometry has always been a problem which is why there aren't any cars running it. I seems to be simple conversion but problems quickly show themselves. An MII type of X-member can cure the problem of interference between the top A arm inner mounts and the exhaust manifolds on a V8 and for the handful of people who might want to do this, it'll be good news.
The standard steering in good condition is fine except at parking speeds IMO so not an issue with me.
I could envisage a conversion which swapped the tubular A arms over onto the existing Volvo cross member, possible on an exchange basis so that the adaptation was done safely and accurately. Converting that way would give plenty of choice of brakes and ball joints, with a wide range of prices.

I will work on getting an original motor in, but I will say this, there is no clearance issues.. There may have been issues trying to modify a rack to fit the existing Volvo Crossmember and suspsension, but this is a completly different configuration, so the correct geometry isnt an issue.

I can tell you this, the original motor will set in the car with an excess of clearance on Every Point, Crank Pulley, Oil Pan, Exhaust, ect, ect. As far as making tubular control arms, I had tried that approach first, but No Company would touch it, due to the factory Crossmember set up, and the Narrow Upper Control Arm Requirements. Apparently the Uppers Control arms arent considered a SAFE Modification due to them being so Narrow. They Claim that because they are only 9 inches wide, end to end on the Pivot mount, they didnt feel it was feasible if people would drive them harder in braking condition. That is them, not me.. I would have rather just made some control arms for sure.

This Crossmember is Made to directly bolt in, and when I say directly, I mean it takes me 5 minutes to slide it in and bolt it up with the Factory Mounts and Unibody. As far as the Retro Fit with the factory Motor installed, I really think you dont have to remove the motor at all. As a general motor Tech, we would support the motor and body, then replace crossmembers or sub-frames all the time.

I currently have a large list of interested people, and dont see a problem selling these at all. As far as the cost goes, it is looking at about 500 dollars for the Crossmember, then you can accessorize it as you please. You can have a real nice system for about 1200 dollars or go overboard race with huge brakes ect for 3000 dollars.. It is really a matter of choice and budget.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I got to roll the car outside, and see what it is going to look like.. I need to make a decision about the air dam corner transition into the fender and finish the passenger side out and add a lip to the bottom, but I think over all it is going to work. I really like the nose and bumper in the real world, if you look at some of the corner shots, it is going to look pretty good when finish painted. Over all the stance is working, just need to dial it in a bit.

Things seem to look like proportionally, but if you notice something that is off other than the air dam, please let me know.. Also, keep it to proportions, because this is the styling this car is going to go, and the styling has been debated WAY too much on other forums.. LOL

Here is a couple of before..





Now the new Outside Pics..There seems to be a huge difference to me now.. After so long of working on every part of it, the differences tend to fade away the more it is being worked with.

[940_Turbo]

I like the back, but I don't think the upside down cow horns are doing anything for the car. They draw your eye down and the area under the bumper will never be the most visually pleasing part of the car. I think it'll look better and cleaner with horizontal bumpers front and rear.

[irishcarfan]

The back is absolutely stunning - especially the side without the bumpers. It looks like a Lancia, or something exotic - which it is. Also, the grille and lights look great.

The front spoiler and bumpers just aren't my thing and in my opinion, ruin the lovely clean lines of the car. The front doesn't match the back.

Does it need bumpers?!

Great work!