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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice?Views : 13744 Replies : 248Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 21st, 2020, 08:54 | #241 |
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The Vauxhall slant-4 was probably even more heavily over-engineered than the Volvo Red-block; L.J.K. Setright reckoned they needed 40,000 miles just to be "run-in". Their main weakness was the lazy oil-pump; it was a very good idea to give the engine a minute's running before even thinking about revving it above cold idle speed. The calve clearance adjustment was also neat - a tapered adjuster that you screwed in or out as necessary. As you say, I do know a reasonable amount about them and still rate them highly.
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May 21st, 2020, 09:57 | #242 | |
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As you say, a very good engine!
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Aug 9th, 2020, 06:27 | #243 |
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Well, we seem to have found the car! 1990 GLT estate, drives well and looks great.
I've put down a deposit but before hitting the final 'buy' button, a couple of questions on work needed, if I may. First, under Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories) for the last MoT (Feb) it says: 'Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive (5.3.6 (a) (i)) Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive'. And it's clear that both front outriggers are rusting significantly toward the outer edges (and no doubt some of the floor pans) and need repair as in this link (I think): https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ront+outrigger We don't plan to do any welding ourselves so this will have to be farmed out to a garage, and I'd like it done asap rather than waiting for things to get worse. My question is, how difficult/ expensive do the jobs sound? Thanks for any thoughts, Chris Last edited by Chris152; Aug 9th, 2020 at 09:08. |
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Aug 9th, 2020, 11:15 | #244 | |
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It could also be a case of cutting out previous repairs then cutting back to good metal, welding in repair pieces and then prime, paint etc. You can save yourself a lot of money (and potential grief) by stripping out the upholstery, carpets etc from the areas concerned on the inside. No point paying a garage £x/hr to do that when that money would be better spent doing what they're charging for which is welding. You'll also learn a lot about how the car is put together and maybe find other potential rust spots that can be treated before they turn ugly. I'm glad the right one for you came along, hopefully it will be a long and fruitful ownership!
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Aug 9th, 2020, 11:22 | #245 |
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Thanks Dave - from what I've seen of the outriggers the metal needs cutting out and replacing - tbh I'm surprised the MoT didn't have more of an issue with it, but then I don't know what I'm talking about! It cropped up in advisories several years in a row, which isn't good, but presumably wasn't progressing a lot?
And definitely, we'll strip out the carpets and things before getting the job done, as you say. As for the suspension points, I couldn't even find them as I crawled around underneath, so no idea as to their condition tbh. What I saw looked solid but I was probably looking at the wrong things! |
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Aug 9th, 2020, 11:59 | #246 | |
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Using the springs as a reference point, follow them down to the trailing arms - the long arms that go front-back and the axle and springs sit on. Follow these arms forward and you will find they attach to the underside of the car near the sills but actually on the floorpan. Normally this area is strengthened so should be fairly obvious. Maybe when you actually have it sat on the driveway you can reverse it onto a pair of ramps and see it better.
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Aug 9th, 2020, 12:11 | #247 |
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These bits I've circled, Dave? (Assuming I've managed to attach the pic!)
I looked at those and they looked fine, but as I say, I've no idea really. |
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Aug 9th, 2020, 12:20 | #248 |
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That's the ones Chris, if i could do the little circle things i would have done but you got it right.
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Aug 9th, 2020, 12:24 | #249 |
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Thanks Dave!
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