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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Jul 7th, 2023, 07:07 | #251 | |
Chief Bodger
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This is his pre-plating cleaning process and along with agitation and a good power source you can do nickel and zinc okay at home. Cleaning Solutions Isopropanol IPA Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda heavy duty drain cleaner) Hydrochloric acid (brick cleaner) Tap water between each cleaning step. Pre-Cleaning Process If the part is already zinc plated, rusty or heavily soiled, do the following. Clean parts in thinners to remove grease, underseal etc. Clean part in hot water, washing up liquid and baking soda, then dry. Soak the part in hydrochloric acid until the solution stops fizzing. When the fizzing has stopped, all of the old zinc / cadmium plate will have been removed. Now wash the part in water. Inspect and check for rust. If there is rust on the part, put it back into the hydrochloric acid. Inspect every 30 minutes or so. Dont leave it in any longer than necessary. Wash the past in water each time you remove it. Once you have completed the above, lightly wire brush the part by hand. This will remove any residue from the process above. Again, wash in water. Now you can move to the Cleaning Process. Cleaning Process This is the important bit. Wash part in Isopropanol IPA, then water. Wash part in Sodium hydroxide then water. Wash part in hydrochloric acid (max 2 minutes) then water. If water will not bead on the job, it is clean. If water does bead on the job, clean it again. Look up the Water Break Test to get an idea of how to check surface cleanliness. When water will not bead on the job, it is ready for plating.
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Jul 7th, 2023, 07:08 | #252 | |
Chief Bodger
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Jul 9th, 2023, 18:19 | #253 |
Chief Bodger
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Painted the engine and gearbox today, couple coats of epoxy mastic and then a couple of coats of 2k topcoat.
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Jul 12th, 2023, 20:08 | #254 |
Chief Bodger
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I gave the engine bits a rub down and clean and decided to go with a 2k clear over. They are darker in the pics than in person.
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Jul 13th, 2023, 16:21 | #255 |
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Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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It is interesting that your alloy parts are so dark. After removal of grease mine looked very light in color. I sprayed them with a high heat aluminum colored finish paint to brighten them up and give a uniform appearance. For an aerosol spray bomb paint it has been remarkably durable (9+ years).
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Jul 13th, 2023, 17:03 | #256 | |
Chief Bodger
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I have some Mipa high heat silver paint for the manifold, it's the dogs when it comes to high heat paint. Really good stuff.
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust. Last edited by Burdekin; Jul 13th, 2023 at 18:59. |
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Jul 13th, 2023, 20:55 | #257 |
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The pulleys and oil filler cap are steel so I understand that. The thermostat housing, timing cover and water pump are aluminum alloy(s) of some ilk. It was primarily those latter three that I was curious about why they turned out so dark.
This was pretty much the color of my timing cover (before and after I painted it). https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2117...SABEgJ5pPD_BwE However, I see that some covers do look darker https://vp-autoparts.com/en/artiklar...vo-b18-20.html Mine is an original Volvo cover that was machined to accept the later neoprene seal. |
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Jul 27th, 2023, 20:35 | #258 |
Chief Bodger
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Painted the 142 gearbox mount and a couple of the gearbox brackets tonight.
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Jul 31st, 2023, 12:50 | #259 |
Chief Bodger
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The 142 is progressing. The painter has made a start with the rear 1/4. She needed some pulling to get the trim line straight and then in epoxy primer. Excited to see paint going on. I made a start on the brake booster and master cylinder.
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Aug 3rd, 2023, 19:48 | #260 |
Chief Bodger
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Painted the brake booster today. I was almost finished and my air fed whistle was going off, one of my compressors had seized. Not looked at what the issue could be but a pain. Got a new brake master cylinder today and comes with a silver coating, anyone leave them silver and if so does the coating last?
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