Brakes: Guide to replace rear brakes on S60/V70

[Lord of the Nazgûl]

mojo!!
I did mine a few weeks ago but got shiny brembo discs, yours look nicer lol... i didnt take pics, but thanks for reminding me about those %$**! retaining springs.. I nearly had a breakdown trying to remove them without resorting to bolt cutters hehehe. .. now im off to adjust my handbrake, you just reminded me

[S60-MBS]

Originally Posted by Lord of the Nazgûl

mojo!!
I did mine a few weeks ago but got shiny brembo discs, yours look nicer lol... i didnt take pics, but thanks for reminding me about those %$**! retaining springs.. I nearly had a breakdown trying to remove them without resorting to bolt cutters hehehe. .. now im off to adjust my handbrake, you just reminded me

Should have bought the beasty over to mine, I would be more than glad to have done the brakes for you Mark

Offer does apply to anyone in Birmingham too

[pierremcalpine]

Potentially a dumb question: is it a good practice to replace shoes when disc/pads are being replaced ie are they more or less on the same maintenance schedule? Sounds like I need to take them off anyway to get the discs off, correct?

[Marmitespreader]

No, the shoes sit behind discs, discs, callipers & carriers off to change/check shoes.
Pads sit in calliper outside of disc, so only calliper removal required for pad change.
It is vital that the shoes are checked, as they are prone to delaminating & can cause hub damage in some failure cases.

[Brendan W]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

Potentially a dumb question: is it a good practice to replace shoes when disc/pads are being replaced ie are they more or less on the same maintenance schedule? Sounds like I need to take them off anyway to get the discs off, correct?

The only dumb ones are the ones you don't ask.
As Marmitespreader said there is a bit more work involved in getting at the shoes for an inspection or replacement. I don't really see the point of an inspection as by the time the discs are off etc etc.
Given the shoes known bad behaviour I replaced the shoes at 94k and when the disc comes due soon 132k there will be more new shoes.
My version of best practice is change them shoes every four years no matter what. If before that the lever one morning rides higher , change the shoes.If there is a clunk or sticking reversing out your drive, change the shoes If the Cuckoo arrives early, change the shoes.

[mikealder]

Originally Posted by bogart

In the picture following section 9 showing the new disc in situ what is the purpose of the nut head that appears at the bottom of the disc.

That bolt you mention has a 10MM head when you remove it the disk will be unbolted from the hub, the bolt secures the disk/ drum to the hub and needs to be removed to release the disk/ drum - Should be much easier task to complete when you take the bolt out - Mike

[dcorless]

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=119250

[leswindeler]

I changed the handbrake shoes on my V70 today.
What I did find was that it is not the shoes stopping the disc coming off but corrosion where the disc mates with the hub. I gave them a squirt of WD40 before resorting to the rubber Mallet. Believe me, it took a fair amount of whacks to separate them.
A quick clean with a file around the hole in the disc and the area on the hub where they mate cured the problem.
I realised that was the problem because once I replaced the disc I took it off again but found it difficult.
As for the old shoes, they had separated from the backing plates. I have never seen such a poor design. It also proves to me that some main stealers do not do their job correctly at service intervals.

Hope this helps some folk out there.

[V70AWF]

Have just purchased a pair of PAGID rear discs for my 2003 V70 from Euro Car Parts. They appear to have been sprayed all over with silver paint. Do I clean this off before fitting or fit as is? Last time I purchased disc for my previous Audi they came in steel finish.

[Djbutler]

Originally Posted by S60-MBS

Hi Folks,
Just thought I pass on my experiences today at renewing rear discs,pads and shoes on my S60 2003.Took me a little longer than expected but all was worthwhile in the end.

1) Raise vehicle and for your safety use axle stands as extra support,I placed my wheel underneath also as I am abit too paranoid.Release handbrake and chock front wheels.



2) Remove wheel and take picture just so that you can remember how the rattle spring is fitted,Should look something like this.



3)Remove Rattle spring and then remove dust caps on piston slide bolts,Using 7mm Hex key (Allen key) undo the slide bolts.



4) Once slide bolts are removed you will be able to slide away caliper from carrier,leave pads intact for now.Using wire (or garden twisty in my case ) hang caliper on suspension in order to reduce stress on brake hoses.



5) Using 13mm socket and rachet begin to remove caliper carrier bolts,Meanwhile taking care not to damage the rear wheel sensor,The wire for sensor can be removed from bracket should it be getting in the way.




6) Once carrier if off you can begin to remove disc,Mine was stuck firm so i had to use a large rubber mallet to encourage the disc.once disc if off this is what you be seeing,At this point I was a little disapointed at a certain main dealer for reporting my brake shoes where completely naff,As you can see from pic below they are anything but naff.



7) Remove springs from shoes,the spring in centre of hub was the trickiest I found,The trick to it is to use long nose plier to grab and push it into hub and while pushing to twist it just a touch,The spring then should come free,You can however encourage spring by pulling away top of shoe and by using a thin screwdriver to prise at spring end.The end result should look like this.



8) Clean the dust off hub and inspect hub area for grease leakage ,use light dabs of copper slip on area which comes into contact with brake shoes.Once all is clean fit new shoes and assemble new disc.
Hint: fit side toward front of car first as the shoes once fitted squeeze together making it alot easier to fit disc.

9) Now for the pads,remove the pad at front of caliper which is bonded to caliper.Using a G clamp push back piston with old pad still in place.I used a Draper brake bleeding kit while pushing piston back,The caliper being a brake part which gets very hot should contain alot of crap which I didnt fancy pushing back into system.
Once piston had been pushed back remove old pad which is clipped into place,Clean surrounding area of rust and dirt.Refit caliper and carriers and being to install new pads,If you are using original Volvo pads you will find the outer pad has a 3M sitcky pad on outside which bonds pad to caliper.Refit rattle springs,At this point you want to refer to picture you may have taken earlier to see how spring fits,Believe me I done it twice today .
The end result should be like this:



Repeat all steps for other side of car.Once all parts are fitted road test car,before moving of pump the brake pedal in order to push the pads into correct place.Drive at about 20mph and pull up handbrake,this will help embed the shoes,You may notice your handbrake may have got very tight after new shoes as was in my case,This means handbrake adjustment is needed.

To Adjust Handbrake
1) Remove handbrake lever Gaitor,This normally just unclips upwards with console lid open.




2) raise the biege coloured plastic flap and you will see a 10mm nut and bolt as in centre of pic below.



If you handbrake is too tight then turn nut anti clockwise,if loose then clockwise.

Hope this helps

Regards
Mo

Ps I really need to lose weight ,being a little large is making working on cars painful now

I see from the wheel under the car that you went to the common sense school of methodology , the other point is something I must agree with as well, no more ice cream after meals for me.......I have been considering drilling and riveting my shoes when I do them before MOT in a few months, should be some copper rivets in the shed somewhere.