Timing gear replacement

[Ron Kwas]

Derek;

I'd match the thickness of repair piece of Sump Gasket, as best I could to prevent leaks, so I'd have a sheet of the thicker cork on hand also, and cut the repair piece from that depending on what I found on disassembly.

...and what's one mm out of 36 among friends?...as long as the socket fits (and I know a 36mm does fit!) Please take a few pictures of disassembly...and if Hub and Gear are not yet completely separated, a rag between Crank and Cam Gears may be enough to prevent turning while loosening Nut...after that, some careful prying should allow removal of Gearhub.

Good Wrenching!

[Derek UK]

Just checking through the pieces in the Brookhouse fibre timing gear set. This note was inside.



I assume NO DOT PULL should say DO NOT PULL! Don't know if a garage would normally have an oven and I don't think a microwave is a good idea! I have freeze spray for the cam nose. but could only rustle up a blow lamp which again probably not a good idea.
Other anomalies in the kit include what looks like a steel thrust plate rather than the bronze one and the 2 plate screws have no Loctite splodge. Does have the spacer ring which the NOS kit doesn't. Crankshaft gear is wrapped in a piece of newspaper with an advert from Forest park Illinois, so I guess the kits come from the USA.
I'm basing my comments on a proper NOS Volvo kit which unfortunately had a bit of surface rust on the cam gear steel centre. It has cleaned up pretty well and would be OK I think. If nothing else the steel removed by the rust leaves slight recesses that will trap oil nicely. That kit has the Loctited bolts and also a new retainer clip for the felt seal. Plus the bronze thrust plate.

[Ron Kwas]

Derek;

I don't think the Thrust Plate needs to be changed with a simple Timing Gear replacement...but if those bolts are removed, whether original with bent retention tabs, or aftermarket with a threadlocker, they do need some form of secondary retention when installed.

I have never run across a high interference between Cam and Gearhub, but raising it to toasty warm over the Cam at ambient (with a toasteroven, retired from food service), plus some lube, and maybe a gentle tappy tappy from a soft hammer, should help gently and safely persuade Gear onto Cam...

Regarding cryptic instructions...I agree, it likely was supposed to be "Do Not"...but I hope this is only indicative of someone making a typographical error, and then not seeing it because they were seeing what they wanted to see, not what was actually written...(human nature!), opposed to the Gearset coming from some country where English is a second language...is there any indication of Country of Origin?

Good Wrenching!

[Hat]

Just a paper anti-sue mechanism...
It's not really an interference fit, just snug, so a rubber mallet and some lube.

[old fart]

I fitted an alloy gear,which was definitely not a press fit with a bit of a tap, but had to be heated up good and proper, then it just slid on nicely.

[arcturus]

For what it's worth when I replaced mine I eased the bore of the gears with some wet and dry until I could just get them on. I seem to remember that keys are used to secure them before the nuts are screwed on. I have had no problems over a few thousand kms. The new gears are not always an exact diameter internally

[tdz840]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Just checking through the pieces in the Brookhouse fibre timing gear set. This note was inside.



I assume NO DOT PULL should say DO NOT PULL! Don't know if a garage would normally have an oven and I don't think a microwave is a good idea! I have freeze spray for the cam nose. but could only rustle up a blow lamp which again probably not a good idea.
Other anomalies in the kit include what looks like a steel thrust plate rather than the bronze one and the 2 plate screws have no Loctite splodge. Does have the spacer ring which the NOS kit doesn't. Crankshaft gear is wrapped in a piece of newspaper with an advert from Forest park Illinois, so I guess the kits come from the USA.
I'm basing my comments on a proper NOS Volvo kit which unfortunately had a bit of surface rust on the cam gear steel centre. It has cleaned up pretty well and would be OK I think. If nothing else the steel removed by the rust leaves slight recesses that will trap oil nicely. That kit has the Loctited bolts and also a new retainer clip for the felt seal. Plus the bronze thrust plate.

Derek
Volvo had a specific tool to fit the timing gear, SVO2408 (pg 2-26 Fig 48). Very easy with the tool.
Gordon Hunter had the correct tool and I borrowed it to make a couple of copies.
You are more than welcome to borrow it
Russ

[Derek UK]

Russ - Re SVO2408, it looks as if you screw it into the cam and then do up the nut. I looked at a camshaft I have the other day and that doesn't have an internal thread. Makes it pot luck if the one in my engine has one or not. If it is threaded, a spacer and some washers plus nut and bolt would work as long as the interference fit isn't too great. Posts indicate that this is unpredictable.
Bottom line for fixing this is just to replace the fibre cam and nothing else, not replacing the thrust plate at all but the amount of wear on the thrust plate is again unpredictable. I will be having a word with my garage later and will get back to you via PM about loan of the tool. Thanks for the offer. I'd guess they would have a 36mm impact socket as it appears to be a common size for wheel hub nuts.
As mentioned, trying to tap the gear on can have the cam moving back and knocking out the plug at the back.

[tdz840]

Derek
It attaches to the cam nut. No internal thread.
Used it on a C, D, K and the KG cam all from different suppliers and all worked just as well. Need to get the tool down as I haven't touched it for a few years but recall a taper action was going on.
Incredibly easy with the tool, no heat just a bit of oil and you can almost wind it on by hand.
No tapping required, which as Derek knows is a big No No. You will dislodge the rear core plug which if the engine is still in the car means an engine out job

[tdz840]

Originally Posted by old fart

I fitted an alloy gear,which was definitely not a press fit with a bit of a tap, but had to be heated up good and proper, then it just slid on nicely.

Agree with heating the alloy gear up. I forgot about that.
I put it in hot water then slid it on with some teflon paste.
The fibre wheel I used on my first rebuild went on with with little nause, however I did use a dowel with wet and dry to allow the oil to be retained as I slid it on the cam nose.
Useful to know for those having issues get big things in tight holes. Always useful to rub it first with wet and dry...