Thoughts please on swapping from TDi to D5

[5cilinder]

Originally Posted by foggyjames

Very easy, but make sure you remove the upper bracket (to the gearbox, for the rear one, and the engine for the front), as I tore my front one jacking up the engine to remove the rear (being lazy). they have superceded the part number for the rear mount, which is fine, but you don't need the £50 matching new upper bracket which Volvo tell you you need - the old one fits AOK. There must be a reason for it, but I couldn't see it, so I took the risk and saved £50.

Mine improved my vibration, but didn't really remove it. We think the problem is the gradually failing DMF. That's getting replaced soon, so we'll see. It's possible there's a bent con-rod (long story), but the primary theory is that it's the DMF.

cheers

James

The vibration can also be caused by leaking vacuum outside the mounts
Check the vacuumbox under the egr cooler wich alternates the bypassvalve in the egr-cooler during warmup
Remove the tube from the solenoidvalve and suck on the tube if its leaking it causes to vibrate at idle during warmup
The vacuumbox cant be replaced easily/ seperatly but blocking of the hose will restore vacuum and leave the bypassvalve closed during warmup wich is no problem realy the automatic d5's have no bypassvalve at all and function well

[foggyjames]

That is definitely something I'll look at, thanks

Mine currently runs pretty badly, though. We're pretty sure it's caused by the DMF. My clutch is also slipping in the summer, so there's nothing to be lost. I'm upgrading to an M66 while I've got it all apart.

cheers

James

[66split]

Well all, I went and did it. Got rid of the v70 2.5D and bought an s60 D5. The v70 went to a new owner for a reasonable price and the new owner seemed like a nice guy and was over the moon with the car. I got a very nice Metallic Silver s60 with FSH, full black leather, heated electric seats, cruise and the Dolby stereo which i have to say is fantastic...to the point where i didn't even bother taking the subwoofer out of my v70 to put in this - just left it for the new owner which he was pleased about. The dealer I bought it off did the cambelt and tensioners etc and gave me three months warranty too. Initial ideas of the car, very good. Feels very tight, no rattles or knocks etc and is very quick when you want it to be. Seems just a little worse than the 2.5D on diesel, I've done three tanks now and got 751, 738 and 698 miles respectively. Interestingly, that last tank, I had the heated seat on pretty much the whole time so it seems like that's made quite a difference. Seems not much different to the v70 overall though i have to say, I dont like the more computerised heater/blower controls!!!! Dont seem to be able to get the right settings and the car mists up a lot - the v70 never did this and i preferred the simple hot/cold and low/high twisty knobs!!

[BillB]

Well done and good luck with the car. I currently have a Tdi V70 (advertised on here but no serious interest so far) and a V70 P2 2.4D with RICA (Euro4). The latter easily outperforms the Tdi (well you'd expect that) but there are some annoying features e.g. the door handles are too far forward, the dash controls are less "obvious" like the heater as you say, rearwards vision (when reversing) is worse, you can't see the end of the bonnet. Other than that I still like it, especially the power, but consumables such as tyres will cost more and it is heavier on fuel (although I'm tending to use its power too much). As others have said the Tdi does have a "solid" feel whereas the Phase 2 is a bit more "Ford" (but only a bit, the design is essentially Volvo). The phase 2s are OK - at least you don't have the electric handbrake to go wrong...... Regards.

[izools]

Although it's now after the fact, I'm not sure on the 163 v 185 engine thing,

My view on it is this:

185 engine doesn't have engine mount issues
185 engine doesn't have turbo pressure regulator to fail
185 has uprated clutch
185 not so prone to intercooler issues

There are swirl arm issues but this is really five minutes with a cordless drill and a pin or nut and bolt to fix. I've never worked on a car mechanically before and this was the first thing I ever did in an engine bay so as long as you know how hold a simple tool you'll be fine

Certainly easier to fix that Vac issues on the 163 FWIW.