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anybody else broken a 1041 axle !?!?!?!

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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 14:02   #21
smithy
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Originally Posted by rogerthechorister View Post
I'm not going dragging! Is that 3:31 good and where is it and how much?
Most of the later 1041 lockers are 3.31 mate
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Old Oct 2nd, 2012, 10:34   #22
volvoz2000
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update on this aswell.... swapped in another welded 1031 last night. Looking down the tube of the broken side it seems the bearing on the diff carrier has broken up also. My theory is that as the axle had been whining (I thought this was normal for a welded diff) due to the bearing breaking up which in turn caused "whip" in the shaft hence it didn't shear off straight. In short it looks like it may not have been down to a weak shaft but a bad bearing
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Old Oct 2nd, 2012, 22:22   #23
rockheadrumble
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ah right, well i guess thats good to know.

i would say the locker mod is as easy as welding it, it only takes an hour to do it once the plates off and diff out.

if its just a drift car i would stick with it welded, its so much easier to initiate the drift. iv tried drifting mine with the diff mod recently and i get a lot of understeer, most likely cos its so long and heavy though, it just wants to keep ploughing forward!! a set of good tyres on the front and sh1ters on the back should sort it though.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 09:17   #24
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Once the diffs are welded the half shafts become about as strong as carrots, I have 4 axles sitting around the back of the workshop with broken half shafts.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 09:19   #25
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Any idea whether there is an issue with doing a different mod on a 1041?? I.e just take the plate off, pull the pawl out with a bar and weld it in place????

We found dry drifting with the welded quite easy, it was the rain that caused all the understeer resulting in the need for hydro handbrake use
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 12:04   #26
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Any idea whether there is an issue with doing a different mod on a 1041?? I.e just take the plate off, pull the pawl out with a bar and weld it in place????

We found dry drifting with the welded quite easy, it was the rain that caused all the understeer resulting in the need for hydro handbrake use
It is easier to cut some of the weight off mate .my 940 would drift around any round about if I wanted it to lol.and drag racing now is spot on no going side ways when I put my foot down
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 12:18   #27
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I found on my car that despite the fact it goes against what is the normal thing to do the fitting of a stiffer front anti roll bar has helped. A lot of the problem is down to the amount of weight transfer to the outside front wheel.
For a track car you really need much stiffer front springs and possibly no front bar. I don't think anything available off the shelf is anywhere near stiff enough. Look at increasing the camber and possibly the caster.

Would an extra rear antiroll bar or thicker one help in the wet ?
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 15:35   #28
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Originally Posted by Steve940estate View Post
I found on my car that despite the fact it goes against what is the normal thing to do the fitting of a stiffer front anti roll bar has helped. A lot of the problem is down to the amount of weight transfer to the outside front wheel.
For a track car you really need much stiffer front springs and possibly no front bar. I don't think anything available off the shelf is anywhere near stiff enough. Look at increasing the camber and possibly the caster.

Would an extra rear antiroll bar or thicker one help in the wet ?
I have ipd bars on mine and I will see what it is like next year at Caldwell racetrack .last at silverstone I managed to get the front mudflap to touch the floor with standard anti roll bars lol
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 16:26   #29
rogerthechorister
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Default Understeer?

I must admit I'd have assumed reduced front roll stiffness and increased rear would have made it easier to get the back out. I'd also have assumed going to negative camber on the front (but have fun retaining a sensible scrub radius) would have reduced understeer. Adding caster I would have thought would inhibit turn-in. But since I don't really get the point of drift, since unlike lap times it is not measurable but aesthetic (sort of like water ballet without the women), I may not be the best commentator here.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2012, 17:18   #30
smithy
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I must admit I'd have assumed reduced front roll stiffness and increased rear would have made it easier to get the back out. I'd also have assumed going to negative camber on the front (but have fun retaining a sensible scrub radius) would have reduced understeer. Adding caster I would have thought would inhibit turn-in. But since I don't really get the point of drift, since unlike lap times it is not measurable but aesthetic (sort of like water ballet without the women), I may not be the best commentator here.
I don't do drifting mate I like my tyres thanks
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