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Number 8 fuse keeps blowing!

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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 15:01   #21
Clifford Pope
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All the fuses get their power from the left hand side of each fuse.
They get that power in different circumstances - some are always live, some only when the ignition is on, one or two in special circumstances depending on other things.

Number 8 is always live, because it feeds things that you want to work the moment you open the door.
All the outputs come from the right hand end of the fuse. There are several terminals there, but they all do the same thing.
If you disconnect all the wires on the right, the left hand side will still be live, and the right hand terminals too if the fuse is working.

My book shows 4 green wires connected to the output side of the fuse:

Glove box light
Boot light
Engine compartment light
Courtesy lights

Each output wire controls one function, so if you remove say the glove box wire only the glove box light stops working. There are no branches to other things.

If you only have 3 wires then presumably one of those functions is absent on your model - engine compartment perhaps?

If you do my suggested test of reconnecting them one at a time you will narrow the fault down to one of those. That would be progress, at least.

(Unless a previous owner has messed around with them, and spliced in other things or put the wires back on different terminals, or changed the wire colours, or any of the many daft things we all do but which seem a good idea at the time. )

Last edited by Clifford Pope; Mar 7th, 2016 at 15:04.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 15:38   #22
halfnelson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
All the fuses get their power from the left hand side of each fuse.

My book shows 4 green wires connected to the output side of the fuse:

Glove box light
Boot light
Engine compartment light
Courtesy lights
Mine says the same - however there are two green wires on the left and one on the right.

Was hoping it would be as simple as you suggested - unplugging each in turn. Mine is missing the engine compartment light, and power antenna. However there's still the glove box lights, internal lights, clock, central locking and radio.

Thought I'd go at it the other way and thinking the radio was probably the most likely culprit, would try disconnecting the radio and central locking relays as they both behind this console but have ground to a halt as I can't get the radio out. I'm sure there's a simple way and I'm just being stupid. It'll move a couple of inches forward, enough to get in to the sides and remove the two small screws of the right, but I'm assuming there are two more on the other side but I can't get to them.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 16:23   #23
Derek UK
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The radio has an anti theft bracket attached to the back. That fits into a bracket on the body which has a slot in it. The piece that attaches to the radio has a bent catch on it which acts like a fish hook. Mine had some duct tape wrapped round it to negate the "barb. With it like that it can be pulled out and refitted easily but it still needs to be lined up just right. The radio bracket supports the radio at the rear so don't do away with it. How do you get yours out, don't know, I don't know how much access you need to get your hand up there maybe with a pair of pliers to give the catch a squeeze. Maybe in via the glove box?
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 16:46   #24
Stephen Edwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnelson View Post
Mine says the same - however there are two green wires on the left and one on the right.

Was hoping it would be as simple as you suggested - unplugging each in turn. Mine is missing the engine compartment light, and power antenna. However there's still the glove box lights, internal lights, clock, central locking and radio.

Thought I'd go at it the other way and thinking the radio was probably the most likely culprit, would try disconnecting the radio and central locking relays as they both behind this console but have ground to a halt as I can't get the radio out. I'm sure there's a simple way and I'm just being stupid. It'll move a couple of inches forward, enough to get in to the sides and remove the two small screws of the right, but I'm assuming there are two more on the other side but I can't get to them.
May I suggest, use the test lamp technique. Disconnect the components that are listed as fed by that fuse, and re-connect each one by one?

But first maybe, try an inline fuse to bypass the fuse in the fuse block.

In my litle experience, I have only ever had one vehicle short circuit, a dip switch on a BSA C15. But the 240 fusebox is notorious ...
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 16:56   #25
rtbcomp
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This is a section of the wiring for 1986 and on vehicles. Note the change of colour at various points! I have used blue to represent white.

Volvo 240 Wiring 01-A Small.jpg

Item 46 is the engine compartment light
167 = delayed courtesy light relay
189 = central locking motor, locking
53 = glove compartment light (connected to Yellow & White)
91 = clock (2 positions shown)

The green wire going to the bottom of the diagram goes to the courtesy light.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 17:05   #26
Lucien
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnelson View Post
Thought I'd go at it the other way and thinking the radio was probably the most likely culprit, would try disconnecting the radio and central locking relays as they both behind this console but have ground to a halt as I can't get the radio out.
There is a bracket attached to the upper-left-back corner of the radio (as you're looking at it) with a single screw. You access it by removing the glove box which is very quick. Don't drop the screw. The centre speaker grill in the upper dash also pops out easily (from underneath) if you need a better view.

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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 23:05   #27
Derek UK
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On my radio, which is the same as the one pictured, the bracket is in the middle of the radio and is a right angled bracket held on firmly with 2 heavy screws, The anti theft tab is at the top. I put my radio back in on Saturday so my memory should be OK.
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Old Mar 7th, 2016, 23:14   #28
Lucien
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
my memory should be OK.
Yes - sorry I should have looked closer. Mine is the CR-702, whereas this one looks like a TD-608?

Might still be worth removing the glove box for a better look / better access if difficult to get to it from the front.

Kind regards
Lucien

Last edited by Lucien; Mar 7th, 2016 at 23:19.
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Old Mar 8th, 2016, 07:22   #29
rtbcomp
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I'm sure I had to remove the glovebox when I changed my radio.
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Old Mar 9th, 2016, 20:31   #30
Lucien
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Here's a photo of the rear of a TD-603 to give you the idea:



Regards
Lucien
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