Any Advice, Part 2!

[Chris152]

Apologies for being so slow, I'm still struggling on how to jack the rear so I can use axle stands. My understanding is I can use any of the 3 points in the attached pic.
1 (the diff) is cast - even with the little block of oak we're using between the jack and the iron to spread the load more softly, might that crack the housing with the full weight of the rear?
2 (the axle) - it's round, is that ok to jack on?
3 the trailing arm has two vertical 'flanges' (I don't know the word) rather than anything horizontal to put the jack under - will my bit of oak spread the load across both? I'd think a hockey puck would slip between them?

While the lad's online learning, I've lifted each side again today on the jacking points and cleaned and lubed the nuts/ bolts I missed first time, cleaned and sprayed the spacers at the ends, and re-done all the others. One thing I didn't know is that I stick my tongue out when concentrating - once on each side, I touched it on the disc covers. It didn't remain there for very long.

[Laird Scooby]

Option 2 would be my choice for the trolley jack Chris. Axle stands can go next to the jack.

However, if you're jacking to change the springs/dampers, use the axle to jack the car up (leave it where it is as you'll need it later) in position 2, find the reinforced area on the chassis rails just inboard from the jacking point on the sill, lower the car gently onto the stand and then when you've undone the damper lower bolt, the spring to trailing arm nut (inside the bottom of the spring, may also be one at the top of the spring too), gently lower the jack to drop the trailing arm down. This releases the bottom of the damper so there's only the top bolt to remove and if you've undone the spring fastenings, the spring should pop out fairly easily too.

Then Haynes it with the new bits. Use the jack to lift the trailing arm to help get the spring and damper in position then refit the wheel, lift a bit more to release the axle stand and lower to the ground, remembering not to fully tighten the nuts/bolts until the weight of the car iis on the rear wheels - the spring fastenings can be tightened earlier when it's easier.

[Bugjam1999]

I wouldn’t try position 3 on the bottom of the trailing arm, that surface is sloped and the jack will likely slip.

There’s nothing wrong with position 2, but bear in mind that’s quite far off the floor and unless you have a very high lift jack you’ll probably find you’re barely able to lift the car there as the jack will run out of travel.

I jack the car up using position 1, under the diff. I wouldn’t recommend using a block of wood or anything else in between the jack and the diff bottom, you’re just adding extra things that might slip. After jacking the back of the car high enough, I put axle stands under the rear jacking points on the sills and that leaves the car stable and all of the bolts for the rear suspension accessible.

If you’re struggling a bit with a small standard sized trolley jack I can’t recommend a bigger high-lift trolley jack enough- I’ve got a 3 tonne one from sgs that’s low profile and high reach, it’s much bigger and wider than a normal sized trolley jack and the result is its much more stable in use. I picked it up relatively cheaply on eBay, worth having a look.

Cheers

[Clifford Pope]

It depends whether you want to jack the car still sitting on its suspension, or whether you want to support the car with its suspension hanging.

For either, my preferred method is to put a trolley jack under the trailing arm at its lowest point, spreading the load with a block of wood. Then either just jack it as high as you need, if you want it still sitting on its suspension, and shove a block of wood under the wheel for safety.

If I want to lower the suspension I jack it higher and put an axle stand or a stack of blocks of wood under the jacking point, cushioned with a bit of wood as necessary, and lower the suspension either totally or partially if needing to align suspension holes etc.

I know professionals like tyre places just stick a hefty trolley jack under the differential, and I know that must be OK. But all the same instinct tells me that puts a lot of force on the axle, and in my imagination I see it bending.
So I don't like that method myself. Also it needs a much bigger trolley jack than mine.

[Bob Meadows]

Chris:~
For the trailing arm work you will need to support the car body- one side at a time is fine as long as the car is balanced, I normally use axle stands secured under the jacking points with a second as a back up (slide the removed wheel under some point just in case-or heavy timbers-not stacked)

You will need to also support the axle for up/down adjustments/movement as the bolts are being removed or reinstated etc. Trolley jack is ideal.

Going back to a previous mail relating to the spacer inside the trailing arm & shock absorbers-if you don't have them they can be made from heavy gauge hollow tubbing.

Now sticking your tongue out- this is a well know phenomena with classic car owners! so nothing to worry about unless near the exhaust system-if worried just get a friend to do it as it still counts.
Good luck be safe!
Bob.

[Chris152]

Haha, three possibilities, one recommendation for each! That said, the main thing is we seem to have the locations of the three options right - I was looking at them this morning and wondering exactly how they'd work, and now we're clear.

Bob - I'm not clear what supporting the body/ balance means here. Is it that the bolts need tightening on the arm with the weight equally balanced on the back wheels, in which case it'll be best to finish tightening with the wheels on the floor, full weight on them? We plan to lift and work on just one corner at a time, and I'd thought to lower both wheels onto solid 6" blocks of wood so we can get underneath to finally tighten - would that answer the need for support/ balance?

Thanks for the answers all.

ps Bob - I couldn't believe I did it twice, once on each side. What's that thing about making the same mistakes over and over?
Maybe I'm getting a taste for classic cars...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Haha, three possibilities, one recommendation for each! That said, the main thing is we seem to have the locations of the three options right - I was looking at them this morning and wondering exactly how they'd work, and now we're clear.

Bob - I'm not clear what supporting the body/ balance means here. Is it that the bolts need tightening on the arm with the weight equally balanced on the back wheels, in which case it'll be best to finish tightening with the wheels on the floor, full weight on them? We plan to lift and work on just one corner at a time, and I'd thought to lower both wheels onto solid 6" blocks of wood so we can get underneath to finally tighten - would that answer the need for support/ balance?

Thanks for the answers all.

Chris - all options have their merits, you do need to finally tighten the fastenings for the dampers and ARB etc with the weight of the car on the wheels - as i mentioned before if you have a set of ramps they make this much easier!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161914-1-...s/143932473198

I've got a pair of those, bought them last year and they were a lot cheaper then.

***EDIT***

I got mine direct from the supplier and they're still a bit cheaper than ebay appears to be, however P&P might bump it back up so worth double-checking :

https://www.aimtools.co.uk/products/...amps-2pcs-pair

***END OF EDIT***


Alternatively search for "Rhino ramps" on ebay.

[Chris152]

I have some Dave - I bought them following Alan's advice, and they're really good. But - they frighten me! When we viewed the car, the fella drove onto his ramps and I'm sure nearly went over the front! Crazy, I thought. Then I tried once we had the car home, and lo and behold, I felt like I nearly went over the front, too. The last little bit. I've never had a problem with clutch control but these things test my nerves to the limit. So I thought nice wooden blocks, just enough to get under and tighten things up?
Is there a technique using the ramps, or is it just me being overly anxious?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

I have some Dave - I bought them following Alan's advice, and they're really good. But - they frighten me! When we viewed the car, the fella drove onto his ramps and I'm sure nearly went over the front! Crazy, I thought. Then I tried once we had the car home, and lo and behold, I felt like I nearly went over the front, too. The last little bit. I've never had a problem with clutch control but these things test my nerves to the limit. So I thought nice wooden blocks, just enough to get under and tighten things up?
Is there a technique using the ramps, or is it just me being overly anxious?

Until you get used to the "over the top" feel as you finsih the slope of the ramp and the wheels settle into the proper place, it can give that feeling of impending doom Chris!

Reversing is similar, as long as you're slow up them you can catch them on the brake if you do go a bit far, engage 1st and ease the clutch up until it just bites then gently release the brake - a bit like doing a traditional hillstart the opposite way round. Practice makes perfect as the saying goes, i doubt i'll ever be perfect but your confidence grows with each use.

There is a definite ridge on the end of the ramp that you feel as you drive onto them. it's actually quite hard to get over that bit so unless you drive up them like you're doing a hillclimb event, you shouldn't have any problems.

I'd rather put my faith in a pair of ramps than wooden blocks which can easily slip, especially in damp conditions.

[Bob Meadows]

Yes Chris tighten the bolts with the full weight of the car on the ground- once the second side is done it is easier to do the lot- as also confirmed by others etc.
You will probably find that you can access the bolts for this as the rear is quite high but if on ramps/large blocks of wood under the wheels you have full access.
I've change shock absorbers in less that half an hour if all the bolts are free.
Keep the tongue out for this! couldn't resist that!
Regards Bob.

(Ramps- when used I like to get the car high and push the ramp home- driving up also makes me nervous so I don't own any).
The wooden blocks I use are well over a full tyre width & 3ft x 6" with a run up at one end- Be safe!!