Any Advice, Part 2! - Page 38

Chris152 · Feb 5th, 2021, 19:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

it's actually quite hard to get over that bit so unless you drive up them like you're doing a hillclimb event, you shouldn't have any problems.

Ha, ok, point taken! I think maybe part of the problem was that I wasn't at all used to the car when we tried, it is very different from my van. I bought the wider ones because I didn't trust myself, they seem really stable. So much to learn!
Just saw yours Bob - glad to hear I'm not alone. I'll definitely play safe.

Bob Meadows · Feb 5th, 2021, 21:32

An old trick to stop ramps moving forward whist trying to get the car on is to use a length of folded carpet looped through the bottom rung ie so the carpet becomes trapped under the tyres holding the ramps into the tyres (you can glue the loops of carpet together)
Bob.

Laird Scooby · Feb 6th, 2021, 01:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

An old trick to stop ramps moving forward whist trying to get the car on is to use a length of folded carpet looped through the bottom rung ie so the carpet becomes trapped under the tyres holding the ramps into the tyres (you can glue the loops of carpet together)
Bob.

Great idea for the traditional metal ramps Bob but won't work with what Chris has got.

Also no need as there are rubber pads built-in underneath to help prevent slippage.

loki_the_glt · Feb 6th, 2021, 08:53

I've got a set of CJ Autos wind-up ramps, formerly the property of 827Roverman on this forum. They sit nice and low so you can drive the car onto the guideslope, get out and check you're properly lined up, and then drive on to the lifting section proper. The only downside is that you need a speedbrace or ratchet handle to lift them them but you can select the amount of clearance you want. I've used them once since buying them and they really are worth having.

I originally had a set of their hydraulically-operated ones but they eventually failed - not through poor quality workmanship but because I couldn't get level ground under them and the front of a 940 weighs quite a lot.

Chris152 · Feb 8th, 2021, 09:53

Ooh, those windup ramps look good, but a hefty price! The ones I bought came with a mini ramp leading to the actual ramp, to stop the ramp from pushing away. I think the biggest difficulty I have is that I can't see them as I drive on, which is disconcerting as you get to the top. Practice.

The weather's being annoying again, now it's dry, it's far too cold for lying on the floor outside fiddling with bits of metal. But the ASB turned up, tho it's not the same as the one in the pic - it has a larger 'hump' to the right (seen from the rear), I assume for models where the exhaust comes through at a lower level. (In the ebay pic, the humps are the same height both sides of the diff.) Our exhaust goes right over the axle so doesn't need the hump, but I've looked at pictures on the net and seen some have these ASBs (presumably retro-fitted) with the same exhaust setup as we have, so hopefully it'll be ok?

Chris152 · Feb 9th, 2021, 10:37

Quick question - on a 1990 240, will the front side/ indicator unit come off complete with the headlamp unit once the three nuts attaching the headlamp unit are removed? Haynes shows two nuts holding the side unit in place, but I can't see any on mine and they're not mentioned in Mike Brace's account of how to replace headlamps here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=54565

We don't want to get on with it at the moment as it's freezing out, just planning ahead. After lubing the nuts lots as advised, the four nuts we can easily reach without removing the battery came loose easily, so all good so far!

Laird Scooby · Feb 9th, 2021, 11:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris152

Quick question - on a 1990 240, will the front side/ indicator unit come off complete with the headlamp unit once the three nuts attaching the headlamp unit are removed? Haynes shows two nuts holding the side unit in place, but I can't see any on mine and they're not mentioned in Mike Brace's account of how to replace headlamps here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=54565

We don't want to get on with it at the moment as it's freezing out, just planning ahead. After lubing the nuts lots as advised, the four nuts we can easily reach without removing the battery came loose easily, so all good so far!

Might be wrong on this Chris but i think for your year there are clips that hold the side/indicator cluster in place. Failing that, look for hidden screws that secure it, chances are it will have to come out before you remove the headlamp itself.

Chris152 · Feb 9th, 2021, 11:22

That's what I understand form Mike's guide, Dave, but I was a bit thrown off by the Haynes illustration of 'later model' units. I guess they're just trying to keep us on our toes - I've looked from all angles and can't see any nuts.
We really want to get on with it but it's so cold, and as you pointed out, warm's better for brittle plastics so I don't want to try while it's this cold, now a tad above freezing. I'll bring the units inside to warm up and work on once we get them off, but I'm concerned right now that any undue pressure on the link between the head and side light units could result in cracks. It's also a good excuse for staying inside, in the warm.

Laird Scooby · Feb 9th, 2021, 12:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris152

That's what I understand form Mike's guide, Dave, but I was a bit thrown off by the Haynes illustration of 'later model' units. I guess they're just trying to keep us on our toes - I've looked from all angles and can't see any nuts.
We really want to get on with it but it's so cold, and as you pointed out, warm's better for brittle plastics so I don't want to try while it's this cold, now a tad above freezing. I'll bring the units inside to warm up and work on once we get them off, but I'm concerned right now that any undue pressure on the link between the head and side light units could result in cracks. It's also a good excuse for staying inside, in the warm.

I'm sure i've said something along these lines before Chris, Volvo seemed to change the spec of their cars according to what they had in stock, phase of the moon and the results of a sacrificial troll. Your best bet is approach with caution and work out which fitting method you have before going too deep until you're sure.

Stephen Edwin · Feb 9th, 2021, 12:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

.... Your best bet is approach with caution and work out which fitting method you have before going too deep until you're sure.

Yes David. I definitely agree.

and I remember needing to remove the side and indicatot lights. do not ask me for details ....

Chris. I am pleased the penetrant has worked for you. And taking everything indeers is a very good plan.

.

.

Feb 6th, 2021, 08:53	#374
loki_the_glt Torquemeister Last Online: Today 09:04 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Asgard, Cheshire	I've got a set of CJ Autos wind-up ramps, formerly the property of 827Roverman on this forum. They sit nice and low so you can drive the car onto the guideslope, get out and check you're properly lined up, and then drive on to the lifting section proper. The only downside is that you need a speedbrace or ratchet handle to lift them them but you can select the amount of clearance you want. I've used them once since buying them and they really are worth having. I originally had a set of their hydraulically-operated ones but they eventually failed - not through poor quality workmanship but because I couldn't get level ground under them and the front of a 940 weighs quite a lot. __________________ loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4.

Feb 5th, 2021, 21:32	#372
Bob Meadows Premier Member Last Online: Today 17:15 Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE	An old trick to stop ramps moving forward whist trying to get the car on is to use a length of folded carpet looped through the bottom rung ie so the carpet becomes trapped under the tyres holding the ramps into the tyres (you can glue the loops of carpet together) Bob.

Feb 8th, 2021, 09:53	#375
Chris152 Senior Member Last Online: May 28th, 2024 08:06 Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Cardiff	Ooh, those windup ramps look good, but a hefty price! The ones I bought came with a mini ramp leading to the actual ramp, to stop the ramp from pushing away. I think the biggest difficulty I have is that I can't see them as I drive on, which is disconcerting as you get to the top. Practice. The weather's being annoying again, now it's dry, it's far too cold for lying on the floor outside fiddling with bits of metal. But the ASB turned up, tho it's not the same as the one in the pic - it has a larger 'hump' to the right (seen from the rear), I assume for models where the exhaust comes through at a lower level. (In the ebay pic, the humps are the same height both sides of the diff.) Our exhaust goes right over the axle so doesn't need the hump, but I've looked at pictures on the net and seen some have these ASBs (presumably retro-fitted) with the same exhaust setup as we have, so hopefully it'll be ok?

Feb 9th, 2021, 10:37	#376
Chris152 Senior Member Last Online: May 28th, 2024 08:06 Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Cardiff	Quick question - on a 1990 240, will the front side/ indicator unit come off complete with the headlamp unit once the three nuts attaching the headlamp unit are removed? Haynes shows two nuts holding the side unit in place, but I can't see any on mine and they're not mentioned in Mike Brace's account of how to replace headlamps here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=54565 We don't want to get on with it at the moment as it's freezing out, just planning ahead. After lubing the nuts lots as advised, the four nuts we can easily reach without removing the battery came loose easily, so all good so far!

Feb 9th, 2021, 11:22	#378
Chris152 Senior Member Last Online: May 28th, 2024 08:06 Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: Cardiff	That's what I understand form Mike's guide, Dave, but I was a bit thrown off by the Haynes illustration of 'later model' units. I guess they're just trying to keep us on our toes - I've looked from all angles and can't see any nuts. We really want to get on with it but it's so cold, and as you pointed out, warm's better for brittle plastics so I don't want to try while it's this cold, now a tad above freezing. I'll bring the units inside to warm up and work on once we get them off, but I'm concerned right now that any undue pressure on the link between the head and side light units could result in cracks. It's also a good excuse for staying inside, in the warm.

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