Any Advice, Part 2!

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Quick question - on a 1990 240, will the front side/ indicator unit come off complete with the headlamp unit once the three nuts attaching the headlamp unit are removed? Haynes shows two nuts holding the side unit in place, but I can't see any on mine and they're not mentioned in Mike Brace's account of how to replace headlamps here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=54565

We don't want to get on with it at the moment as it's freezing out, just planning ahead. After lubing the nuts lots as advised, the four nuts we can easily reach without removing the battery came loose easily, so all good so far!

Undo the three retaining nuts on the back of the head light and pull the headlight and indicator unit directly forwards as one unit. The indicator has two rubber push fit grommets things (not sure of the correct term) on the back that push into holes in the bodywork at the front of the wing, so it’ll need more of a pull and possibly a wiggle to come free on that side.

With the headlight facing you, the indicator section should slide off two mounting lugs on the side of the headlight towards you (There’s a metal retaining clip to remove first) but the plastic is old so go carefully.

If any of the remaining retaining nuts are seized I highly recommend using a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the nuts off on the back- following mikes guide and levering off the clips that hold on the headlight glass is only going to lead to you damaging paint.

Cheers

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I'm sure i've said something along these lines before Chris, Volvo seemed to change the spec of their cars according to what they had in stock, phase of the moon and the results of a sacrificial troll. Your best bet is approach with caution and work out which fitting method you have before going too deep until you're sure.

There’s a reason why it’s called the Haynes book of lies - whilst useful, they’re not always correct.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

There’s a reason why it’s called the Haynes book of lies - whilst useful, they’re not always correct.

My favourite is HBoF - Haynes Book of Fantasy. This translation guide explains more :

http://mez.co.uk/haynes.html

[loki_the_glt]

This is what a removed lamp assembly looks like:

[Chris152]

Thanks all - really helpful. We'll try to disconnect the side light housing from the headlamp housing (as per your advice, Bugjam) without disconnecting the wiring to the side lamps, then fetch inside. Even colder this morning, getting a bit concerned as MoT time is approaching at the start of next month! We should be fine, it's looking milder over the weekend - but it is frustrating not being able to get on with it. We'll post an update when things get moving again.

ps Quick question on the rear suspension. I've read the sequence for changing springs and shocks, all clear. But we also have to remove the bolt securing the trailing arm to the rear axle bracket in order to attach the ASB - is it best (or even possible) to do this one bolt first, then remove and replace the spring and shock (including the lower shock bolt, which is the second bolt attaching the ASB), OR do we just remove spring, shock then trailing arm to rear axle bracket and replace everything at once? The reason I ask is that if spring and shocks are still in place, it may make removal and replacement of the rear axle bracket bolt easier, as things will be more aligned?

[Laird Scooby]

I'm not sure what you're asking about Chris? What's an ASB?

[Chris152]

ARB?! Anti-roll bar/ anti-sway bar?!
Stabilizer bar, in Haynes.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

ARB?! Anti-roll bar/ anti-sway bar?!
Stabilizer bar, in Haynes.

Ah, ARB makes more sense!

When you change the springs and dampers, refit the bolt through the axle bush to trailing arm finger tight with the head outboard so the nut is inboard. Loosen the nut a little and tap it with a hammer to push the bolt most of the way out but so a little of the thread is still in the nut. Undo the nut the last few threads and then with the nut off the bottom bolt of the damper, the ARB will fit on fairly easily on the first side. Refit the nuts finger tight and then repeat the procedure on the other side to fit the ARB, only fully tightening the fasteners once the weight of the car is on its wheels, on a pair of ramps is easiest.

The other side will be a bit tighter but you'll soon work out where you need to lever to get the ARB mounted.

Make sure the nut is at least 3-4 threads onto the bolt, don't hit the end of the bolt thread without the nut on or you'll never get the nut on again!

Just FYI on terminology, sway-bar is the USA term for an anti-roll bar, no such animal as an anti-sway bar. Haynes have always annoyed me by calling them stabiliser bars as that's hardly correct in their function which is to reduce body roll. The Panhard Rod could more accurately be described as a stabiliser bar as it stabilises the axle within certain limits about the centre line of the car as the suspension goes up and down.

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks all - really helpful. We'll try to disconnect the side light housing from the headlamp housing (as per your advice, Bugjam) without disconnecting the wiring to the side lamps, then fetch inside.

I wouldn’t take this approach- it’s cold and the plastic the headlight housing and the indicator unit is made from is even more brittle when it’s cold, so separating the indicator from the headlight outside is likely to lead to breaking the brackets - and they’re not the strongest things anyway.

Undo the three nuts, pull the headlight/indicator unit forwards and then once it’s far enough forwards that you can get your hands behind it, undo the electrical connectors to the headlight bulb and the bulbs in the indicator unit (these are easy to remove and just pull off, since of course you might have to replace a bulb at some point).

Then take the whole thing inside and leave it overnight to warm up before you start tinkering with it.

Cheers

[Chris152]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Ah, ARB makes more sense!

When you change the springs and dampers, refit the bolt through the axle bush to trailing arm finger tight with the head outboard so the nut is inboard.

So, in broad terms, the sequence is: Undo nut on spring; undo bottom nut then top nut on shock and remove; lower axle a bit to remove spring; remove trailing arm to axle bracket bolt; refit trailing arm to axle bracket bolt (nut inboard) with ARB attached; refit spring, lifting axle; refit shock with ARB attached; lower and tighten all nuts.

Does that look right?

Bugjam - good point, we'll fetch the lot indoors, hadn't thought to leave overnight.

Thanks both.