Non starter code 121 mass air flow?

[Laney760]

Just wondering, apart from being in a tricky place to get to, these parts should surely be easy to fit myself, I have a comprehensive tool box (several actually!). I do know that my garage and the RAC man mentioned what a horrid place they are in regards working on the engine.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Laney760

Just wondering, apart from being in a tricky place to get to, these parts should surely be easy to fit myself, I have a comprehensive tool box (several actually!). I do know that my garage and the RAC man mentioned what a horrid place they are in regards working on the engine.

You're right Ellie but how are you feeling? It's easy enough to accidentally get two plug leads the wrong way round on the dizzy cap even when you're not poorly, let alone when you are! Please don't ask me how i know this!

I found the easiest was with an 8mm socket with a short extension, all driven from a 1/4" drive ratchet - any bigger won't get close enough physically to do it.

The reason i didn't suggest doing it yourself is because you mention you weren't well and didn't want you stranded as a result.

By all means do it if you feel well enough, however make copious notes on lead lengths, plug number each lead serves, position of that lead on the dizzy cap etc. Good luck if you do it!

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Laney760

Just wondering, apart from being in a tricky place to get to, these parts should surely be easy to fit myself, I have a comprehensive tool box (several actually!). I do know that my garage and the RAC man mentioned what a horrid place they are in regards working on the engine.

I am not familiar with that tricky place to get to engine. Have you dealt with a distributor cap and leads before? This sounds like a very bad instance on which to start.

In general. Before disconnecting an HT lead from any plugs, I make sure every lead is marked with the cylinder number. In the olde days I clipped numbered clothes pegs. Now my HT leads have typex markings. One typex line for cylinder number 1, two typex lines for cylinder number 2 .... &c.

Then lay out the old leads and distributor cap, measure the leads, check which lead goes where to the distributor cap. Take photograph(s), showing the typex markings. If necessary make typex marks at both ends of each HT lead.

Then fit the new leads to the new cap, alongside the old cap and leads, adding typex marks to the new leads.

Pedestrian. Yes. And. You so do not want to end up with incorrectly fitted HT leads.





I remember, my brother in law thought it would be a good idea to pull the plug leads off his four cylinder horizontally opposed engine. VW. Life is short. I left him to call a mechanic. I hope he paid enough to learn that lesson.



.

[Laney760]

Thanks everybody. The car has just been in the garage whilst I was on holiday for 2 weeks, they fitted a new distributor cap, leads and rotor arm fitted, amongst lots of other work. It turned out the power was down since coming off the motorway that day as a clip that fitted on the linkage to the turbo's actuator was broken.

Although she wasn't difficult to start prior to this work, I can definitely say she is starting much smoother since all these new ignition parts and her annual service.

My mechanic has just sent me the bill for my work and asked me when my previous garage did my cambelt. I know my engine is non-interference. My cambelt was last done in April 2017, I would have covered 35K since then. Is the cambelt interval 50K can somebody confirm please?

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Laney760

Thanks everybody. The car has just been in the garage whilst I was on holiday for 2 weeks, they fitted a new distributor cap, leads and rotor arm fitted, amongst lots of other work. It turned out the power was down since coming off the motorway that day as a clip that fitted on the linkage to the turbo's actuator was broken.

Although she wasn't difficult to start prior to this work, I can definitely say she is starting much smoother since all these new ignition parts and her annual service.

My mechanic has just sent me the bill for my work and asked me when my previous garage did my cambelt. I know my engine is non-interference. My cambelt was last done in April 2017, I would have covered 35K since then. Is the cambelt interval 50K can somebody confirm please?

It is 4 years I know that, can't remember if it is 40k or 50k though.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by 360beast

It is 4 years I know that, can't remember if it is 40k or 50k though.

It is indeed 4 years, early cars were 40k but Volvo changed it on later cars to 50k. Whether this was simply to reflect higher mileage per year or coincident with the rounded tooth timing belt introduction, i'm not sure but if you get it done fairly soon Ellie you shouldn't have a problem.

[griston64]

Deffo 50k for timing belt.

Whats the Volvo service intervals ? Only asking as they usually give you a mileage and years and then a whichever comes first

[Laney760]

Wow, Volvo FAQ 900 gives 95 onwards 940 models as 100,000 belt change interval for all engine models:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart

[griston64]

Haynes manual is every 50,000 miles or 5 years,whichever comes first

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Laney760

Wow, Volvo FAQ 900 gives 95 onwards 940 models as 100,000 belt change interval for all engine models:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...imingBeltChart

Look a bit further over on that bottome line Ellie, it still quotes 50k on B200F/T, B204 and B230E and 70k miles on the B6xxx (white block 3.0 and 2.5 models) which are all interference engines.
That suggests to me they're suggesting those intervals as "run it till it breaks but change it at 100k if it hasn't just in case" which means you could still be left stranded by the roadside and awaiting parts etc to have a new belt fitted.

Better IMHO to plan it at 50k intervals (or 40k for the square toothed belt) and be relatively safe in the knowledge the belt should last.

The worrying bit is in the opening sentences "Miles are shown; kilometers equal miles times 1.53."

Kilometres = miles x 1.64 and it could be a typo but something like that should have been proof read before posting. They could of course be converting the old USA mile to km as they've spelled kilometres the American way and the USA mile was a bit shorter than ours so would work out about right.

I think the old adage of "A stitch in time saves nine" applies here.