cruise control

[sidney]

Originally Posted by ma70

Don't do it!!! Use the screw type "choccy blocks" not the snap locking scotch ones, much more reliable connection. Or better still, splice solder & heatshrink the wires in.

hi I don't want to cut the wiring plus it just to see if it works

[Antz]

Originally Posted by sidney

well all fitted bloody for got to get some scotchblogs lol

Originally Posted by ma70

Don't do it!!! Use the screw type "choccy blocks" not the snap locking scotch ones, much more reliable connection. Or better still, splice solder & heatshrink the wires in.

Sweet jesus no!!!! Scotchlocks and those god awful chocolate blocks should be banned. Anyone who uses them shouldn't be allowed near wiring. They aren't safe, weather proof and with scotchlocks they usually end up snapping the wire in half when you try and remove them. Ghastly things that should be banned in my opinion.

It should always be properly soldered and heat shrinked for the best contact and weather protection.

[DXMachina]

Originally Posted by Antz

Sweet jesus no!!!! Scotchlocks and those god awful chocolate blocks should be banned. Anyone who uses them shouldn't be allowed near wiring. They aren't safe, weather proof and with scotchlocks they usually end up snapping the wire in half when you try and remove them. Ghastly things that should be banned in my opinion.

It should always be properly soldered and heat shrinked for the best contact and weather protection.

I 'liked' the post because I agree about scotchblocks

however: I disagree with soldering. as by way of Youtube I've learned (via MightyCarMods) that professional loom builders never solder as soldering makes a joint brittle and over the lifetime of a car it can increase the chances of a failure.

Apparently they all use crimp connectors, applied cold so the joint can flex - and so now do I.

[Antz]

In my experience Ive foun crimps can sometimes let go of the wire, plus they look messy. A mass of blue and red crimps littering the place.

Ive always used a good quality solder and heat shrink in my cars and even in my electric guitars. Never had a problem with the joints breaking down or becoming brittle (yet I've had loads of scotch locks and crappy crimp connectors let go)

All the wiring of the standalone ECU in my car is soldered and heat shrinked. Where there were crimps and scotchlocks they have been replaced by proper soldered joints.

[sidney]

now now play fair we all have our own ways of doing things plus it only a temp fix im doing

[sidney]

Originally Posted by gatos

See if any of these help

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...00_S40_V40.pdf
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...01_S40_V40.pdf
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...02_S40_V40.pdf
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...03_S40_V40.pdf
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/dow...04_S40_V40.pdf

hi have you got a pdf for s40 before 2000 ie around a 98 model please

[gatos]

Originally Posted by sidney

hi have you got a pdf for s40 before 2000 ie around a 98 model please

That's all there is I am afraid

[sidney]

yea same as my Volvo disc then only back as far as 2000

[bobthecabbage]

I've had soldered wires snap (quite common). Problems are using too much solder and soldering a join that is subject to movement or vibration.

I've also had crimp terminals pull off, corrode or wires snap off at the crimp. Also if you solder a wire and then crimp it, the crimp tends to cut the wire!

Best bet is good quality crimp terminals and a high quality crimp tool. You are looking at the likes of durite or Wurth branded terminals. Also its important to match the terminal to the gauge of wire.

Other options are solder heatshrink terminals that you just heat with your heatshrink tool and it solders and seals in one hit.

Also available are heatshrink crimp terminals which obviously are then weather proof.
Or go all out and get yourself some econoseal type connector kits!

[GaryS40]

Originally Posted by bobthecabbage

I've had soldered wires snap (quite common). Problems are using too much solder and soldering a join that is subject to movement or vibration.

I've also had crimp terminals pull off, corrode or wires snap off at the crimp. Also if you solder a wire and then crimp it, the crimp tends to cut the wire!

Best bet is good quality crimp terminals and a high quality crimp tool. You are looking at the likes of durite or Wurth branded terminals. Also its important to match the terminal to the gauge of wire.

Other options are solder heatshrink terminals that you just heat with your heatshrink tool and it solders and seals in one hit.

Also available are heatshrink crimp terminals which obviously are then weather proof.
Or go all out and get yourself some econoseal type connector kits!

Knipex for me, Bob.

At £145 a pair, not for the DIY generalist.

I do agree that the crimp should suit the conductor size.

In our company, most connections are made through Weidmuller DIN rail mounted terminals, via insulated bootlace ferrules.

Gary