'98 V70 D5252T engine vibrations

[debcab06]

Well; I did make some enquiries and the price from Volvo varied between £97 and £120.....However, after jacking up my car and looking at the job in hand, I felt that you would need the hands and mind of a gynaecologist to remove and replace the mounting....... My freindly Volvo dealer did the job for £160 inclusive of VAT.

There is not a lot of room down there so if you`ve hands like a leg of lamb and fingers not dissimilar to sausages, get someone else to do it.............. (not that mine are but I`m sure you get the point!!)

[Galaxie390]

Hi Folks,

Sorry for the inactivity from me on this thread. No excuse, other than life!

No money to get the crank end mount at the moment, not too fussed lying on a cold driveway swapping the thing. So am just grinning and putting up with the vibration.

Have to say what a great guy Artiedtke is, recently met up with him and he was kid enough to check my IP timing. Was really handy being able to compare my engine to another tdi, and as we found the vibration on my heap were quite severe. As a bonus we indentified the mount as being very soft and a aircon pressure sensor fault! We spent 2 hours talking volvo in a cold McD's car park...we had a great time, not so sure my Wife and the kids were too impressed though, esp after a rough crossing from Dublin!

SjefGoossens, thanks for the reply about front end alignment. I've only read it quickly, but I must be having a slow day as I'm not sure how the alignment would contribute to engine vibrations? Will have a strong coffee and read it again : )


Will keep you posted.

Cheers,
Rich

[Baffler]

Hey Rich,

I've had some unpleasant vibrations on my recently acquired TDI and on removal of the OS wheel I discovered a collapsed mount.






The above pic says enough but with the engine removed it's clear that oil has been contaminating it over a long period of time. It's as soft as a sponge.


Kaput!







The oil appears to be coming from around the back of the oil filter/cooler/bracket area. Crank pulley is bone dry from what I can see. I've only just removed the engine today so need to investigate further.

[artiedtke]

I reckon this is what's happened to Rich's. I reckon his mount is shot, but the engine is not bottoming out on the subframe, it's more like it's floating on that end which would explain the softness and bouncyness of that side of the motor.

The culprits of oil on that end is usually from the rear crank seal or from the oil filter area as has already been mentioned.

Check the wishbone mounts on that side also if there's oil contamination. They may also be completely shot !

[Galaxie390]

Hi Liam,

Thanks for the pics of the mount, it made me realise that not everything about my car is wrecked..... ; )

The same mount on my engine as Artiedke said, is really soft. The area shows signs of previous oil leaks from the crank seal, which was replaced last year.

I ordered a new mount from FRF in Swansea for about £74, plus only £12 delivery! It's due next week.

How bad a job is it to take the engine out? Just curious as my auto gearbox has developed a random bad judder at low/ idle speed just as you take off or come to a stop.


Cheers,
Rich

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

The same mount on my engine as Artiedke said, is really soft. The area shows signs of previous oil leaks from the crank seal, which was replaced last year.

Aha !!! Getting very suspicious that mount is now !!

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

How bad a job is it to take the engine out? Just curious as my auto gearbox has developed a random bad judder at low/ idle speed just as you take off or come to a stop.

Oh no !! Is it worth a box fluid flush first ? Have you checked the level etc.

AFAIK the easiest way to get the engine out is to drop the whole lot on the subframe. Depending on the tools you have though you may need to disassemble the entire front end to pull it out, unless you can get access to a 4 post lift to lift the car off the engine.

[Galaxie390]

Oh no !! Is it worth a box fluid flush first ? Have you checked the level etc.

...... Lol, add a few expletives and that's what I said! The box got new fluid last August long with the belts, water pump, crank seal, filters, etc. It does make you wonder when to call it quits on a 190,000mile car. But as I don't have enough cash to get a 'newer' car this one will have to do.

The new engine mount arrived this morning, so if the weather's ok this weekend I'll have a go at fitting it.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Cheers,
Rich

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

How bad a job is it to take the engine out? Just curious as my auto gearbox has developed a random bad judder at low/ idle speed just as you take off or come to a stop.

I don't think it's something you could attempt on the driveway, Rich. With the front end removed I lifted mine out through the top.







It's a rather heavy lump and quite dangerous without the correct tackle. My arrangement not being the safest.

[Galaxie390]

Hi Guys,

Liam, thanks for the pics - I now officially have shed envy! ; )

Well a bit of progress....

Fitted the new mount ok, nice easy job took about 30min. Original one was a little soft, but generally not too bad. However, when I got it off the rubber had completely separated from the base and it just fell apart.

The new mount (gen Volvo) made a small difference to the vibration, but the engine is much firmer now with the new pad.

Also had a go at the timing. Eventually got the sprocket loose and rotated the sprocket towards the front by prob about 1/2 tooth in the end. Adjuster was off by quite a way, so that was set that up to the marker first.

It really is quite hard to get a really small adjustment! Has Artiedtdkhad said it would be a certain amount of trial error, but nothaving access to the software to check the timing I was very conservative with any adjustment.

There was some change in the vibration, but it's still there but seems higher up the Rev range. Too early to say, as the run home was 35 motor way miles but will try it over the week.
On the plus side, the engine is definitely more responsive with more power. It started this morning (-2) with literally a flick of the key. It always was good starter, but now it's bloody great!

The vibration is still there at idle, but it's now worse when it's in gear and being held on the brakes. Never noticed on sat eve as it was good run home, but this morning in Dublin traffic it was terrible! It's a pity as the car is bloody great when you're moving.

Artiedtdk , reckoned the auto box might be the next place to look, and I'm beginning to think he has a point.

Just put 6 months tax on it at €600, which is non-refundable. So am balancing up pros & cons of sourcing and fitting a new gearbox (not looking forward to that one) or selling it on.


Has anyone eany experience of these AW50-42 gearboxes? What could fail inside that would cause these vibrations?


CHeers,

Rich

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

Artiedtdk , reckoned the auto box might be the next place to look, and I'm beginning to think he has a point.

The only reason I'm thinking this is that Rich has pretty much replaced all his motor mounts now, and the ones on my 850 have pretty much 100k on them I reckon, and the vibration is just not there on mine, so im eliminating the fact that it could be the motor mounts.

The only difference is Rich has an auto box, which he's very recently reported 'juddering' from if I'm correct bud ?

Now I'm not sure how these things work, or any auto box for that matter, all I know is I've always wanted to know how they do.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, when it's in drive there is an active drive from the crank, through the torque converter through the gears and to the wheels, the only thing holding the car back is the brake and the lack of fluid pressure through the TC right ? So the car will be trying to move forwards, which would explain the vibration there. You can do this in a manual car, put it in gear and try to go with the handbrake on, the car struggles and vibrates and will eventually stall.

However when your in park, I know that the box is locked, by some pins, but is there still fluid being pumped through the TC ? or is this bypassed, so the car wont be trying to move forwards ? like having the clutch pressed in on a manual.

Also, what happens when your in neutral, the TC spins but there is no active drive through the gears ?

So putting these together, the vibration should be at its minimal when your box is in neutral as there is nothing effectively holding anything back.

I hope all this gibber makes sense lol !