Project: Converting 1.8 into a 1.9D

[skyship007]

Matt86:
written evidence from the manufacturer
an inspection report provided for insurance purposes

That seems to agree with my first post, that Volvo will have to do a survey and the insurance folks will find it fun.

My local Volvo dealer has a restored Cobra auto in his front display area, as he also sells sports cars. I love Shelby's rockets, so I was taking a good look, as the last Aston Martin he sold turned out to be from a rather dubious source (It was stolen in Switzerland) and I noticed it had been restored by my local Posche dealer, BUT had a new electro shift ZF auto box for some real odd reason. That's been done before, but the paperwork still took 6 months according to the rather pretty Volvo "Blotter Jotter" (Front desk clerk) after completion of all the other requirements, which I presume was VIN related.

Oddly enough that sports car is not worth much, as it is not a real restored classic and very expensive to insure as a daily driver. It also had the wrong engine type and required some type of race fuel. It did look nice though!
They have a reputation for being a real handful in the wet, so I hate to think what an auto box with the wrong MAP would do when pushed.

[Matt86]

written evidence from the manufacturer
an inspection report provided for insurance purposes

The evidence to be provided is only one of those listed required. The inspection report for insurance purposes is if it's an insurance write off. Which the diesel is. The insurance won't effect the car because at the end of the day once the job is finished it's going to be just like any other V40 Diesel 1.9D the ONLY difference is that's it's in a V40 shell. There's no additional information that I have to provide or that they need that'll cause any extra cost to me.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by Matt86

written evidence from the manufacturer
an inspection report provided for insurance purposes

The evidence to be provided is only one of those listed required. The inspection report for insurance purposes is if it's an insurance write off. Which the diesel is. The insurance won't effect the car because at the end of the day once the job is finished it's going to be just like any other V40 Diesel 1.9D the ONLY difference is that's it's in a V40 shell. There's no additional information that I have to provide or that they need that'll cause any extra cost to me.

OK, so you think the MOT folks et al will just sign it off as a 1.9D because the body and engine weight is the same or very similar. Silly question but why not just buy another 1.9D and go work in a classic sports car company, or just fix the 1.8. At least they can be sold again, if you decide to move into the sports car game.

[Matt86]

No I'm not saying that. I'm saying that all I'm swapping over between the cars is the chassis, from what I've looked up regarding the cars both the vehicles have the same weights so the weight wouldn't cause me any problems. According to what I've already found on DVLA and VOSA websites I'd only need to have a VIC test after it's been MOT and insured.

The MOT will pass providing I put everything back together properly and then it has a VIC test which is just to check the car can move on it's own power and it's what I'm telling the DVLA it actually is and the reason I'm not buying another 1.9D is because I love the body and colour of the car I have already as a 1.8 but I love diesels and want to put a diesel in it just because I feel like it. I'd never have a hobby as a job as it would just ruin the hobby.

I'll be attempting to get hold of DVLA again tomorrow to confirm this is the case anyway.

Although while I have you here Starship as you've got a diesel and are the master knowledge centre of fluids What oil would you put in a 200K one and what manual transmission fluid would you chuck in as well? These will all need doing so want a decent bit to put in!

[v40alex]

My V40 diesel has a 'mass in transit' of 1395 on the V5 - I assume that's the weight in kg with all the fluids, etc. I couldn't see any other numbers on the V5 that seemed close or relevant.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by Matt86

No I'm not saying that. I'm saying that all I'm swapping over between the cars is the chassis, from what I've looked up regarding the cars both the vehicles have the same weights so the weight wouldn't cause me any problems. According to what I've already found on DVLA and VOSA websites I'd only need to have a VIC test after it's been MOT and insured.

The MOT will pass providing I put everything back together properly and then it has a VIC test which is just to check the car can move on it's own power and it's what I'm telling the DVLA it actually is and the reason I'm not buying another 1.9D is because I love the body and colour of the car I have already as a 1.8 but I love diesels and want to put a diesel in it just because I feel like it. I'd never have a hobby as a job as it would just ruin the hobby.

I'll be attempting to get hold of DVLA again tomorrow to confirm this is the case anyway.

Although while I have you here Starship as you've got a diesel and are the master knowledge centre of fluids What oil would you put in a 200K one and what manual transmission fluid would you chuck in as well? These will all need doing so want a decent bit to put in!

Difficult question, as I need to know if the engine is leaking or burning oil and what the car is used for etc.

For extreme race use, overweight towing or desert operations I would use Amsoil 15/40, as it's the only genuine German standard full synthetic that is fairly easily available. That's what Volvo recommend in their documents for hot deserts only!

For more normal use I would try Shell Helix Ultra Diesel 5/40 and half a can of liqui Moly Ceratec every 5K miles, BUT don't change the oil filter until 10K miles.

For bad stop start use I would try the new Castrol Magnetec 10/40 and half a can of LM Ceratec:

http://magnatec.castrol.com/castrol-...ec-stop-start/

For Artic (Below minus 25C cold starts with no pre heater etc) operations:
Castrol Edge 5/30 plus another half can of LM's best high tech snake oil.

For a bad boy block that burns, drips or rattles when hot, nothing will beat Mobil 1 10/60 EL (It's a high mileage oil), plus half a can of LM stop leak if real terminal phase, with full can of Ceratec for the last rites!

PS. If the blocks not real clean, just use an idle only LM flush (Or BG etc) just before the oil & filter change. No oil funtions correctly if it can't circulate!

GEARBOX: Genuine Volvo box oil OR LM GL4+ 75W90 in summer if towing etc.

VOLVO filters only and never change the air filter unless it looks real dirty!

[Matt86]

Originally Posted by skyship007

Difficult question, as I need to know if the engine is leaking or burning oil and what the car is used for etc.

For extreme race use, overweight towing or desert operations I would use Amsoil 15/40, as it's the only genuine German standard full synthetic that is fairly easily available. That's what Volvo recommend in their documents for hot deserts only!

For more normal use I would try Shell Helix Ultra Diesel 5/40 and half a can of liqui Moly Ceratec every 5K miles, BUT don't change the oil filter until 10K miles.

For bad stop start use I would try the new Castrol Magnetec 10/40 and half a can of LM Ceratec:

http://magnatec.castrol.com/castrol-...ec-stop-start/

For Artic (Below minus 25C cold starts with no pre heater etc) operations:
Castrol Edge 5/30 plus another half can of LM's best high tech snake oil.

For a bad boy block that burns, drips or rattles when hot, nothing will beat Mobil 1 10/60 EL (It's a high mileage oil), plus half a can of LM stop leak if real terminal phase, with full can of Ceratec for the last rites!

PS. If the blocks not real clean, just use an idle only LM flush (Or BG etc) just before the oil & filter change. No oil funtions correctly if it can't circulate!

Looks like Shell it is! It's just going to be a daily motorway drive, Engine is solid - No burning or leaking as of yet! (Touch wood) Does the odd bit of caravan towing but won't be for a while as found damp so needs some renovating as well... Need to check see if that block is a mess or not - Expect it could do with a damn good clean. - Been given a K&S Air panel filter - Worth using or likely to cause issues?

[kieran40]

Looks a good project you have there,in regards to paperwork and stuff a new v5 will be issued once it has gone to a vosa station,were after about half an hour of taking youre car into a inspection chamber to check it all out they will give you a vic,I don't know about the new style registrations but on the older style they usually re register it as a q plate.they did on my j reg fiesta rs turbo back in 2002.and on my rover when I converted it to 1.8,they just want to make sure youre not putting a cut n shut back on the road that's all.good luck with youre project.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by Matt86

Looks like Shell it is! It's just going to be a daily motorway drive, Engine is solid - No burning or leaking as of yet! (Touch wood) Does the odd bit of caravan towing but won't be for a while as found damp so needs some renovating as well... Need to check see if that block is a mess or not - Expect it could do with a damn good clean. - Been given a K&S Air panel filter - Worth using or likely to cause issues?

AHH!!! Bin the K&N, OEM or at least Bosche / Mann AND made in Germany from a sensible dealer. CHECK THE DATE STAMPS if bought on Fleabay.

Towing a caravan is no big deal unless it is a heavy one. If you change gear correctly (3 to 4000 RPM if in a hurry to accelerate) and listen to the engine going uphill etc, it can clean a block up, not damage it. In oil analysis results terms it makes no difference. Alas it is not such good news for the clutch system and even if you are real good with your feet it can increase gearbox bearing wear rates at lot.

[Matt86]

Coolies - Will do, Caravan isn't a heavy one at all, Single axel old 70s style caravan! and push it around myself when it's full so not too worried there.

Finally got through to DVLA, only a 2hr queue :\, anyway - Once I've done the swap all I need to do is have it inspection check done (VIC Test) and send the paperwork from that, Along with my MOT certificate and the amended V5 form of the vehicle change to the DVLA and that's it.
Also as the Vehicle tax will change I'll have to amend those details too as rather than it being taxed based on CO2 it'll be based on the engine size.

Gotta love how lazy the DVLA is getting!