Intermittent poor starting?

[KBB]

Originally Posted by GaryS40

Other than the intermittent slow starting, mine still pulls away smoothly, accelerates brilliantly and flies up the rev band with no issues at all.

Gary

when you say slow starting do you mean the engine cranks at a slow speed?

[brynmor530]

Originally Posted by KBB

If this starting issue is a result after timing belt replacement then it would be a possible. If it has just suddenly started then likely not. This is where a code reader with live data capability would give key info as to where the problem may be.

Thanks KBB. It's been like this since I bought it a couple of years ago. The belt was changed days before I collected the car. After two years of poor starting and sluggish performance I've finally grown tired of it and decided to try and get it sorted. Time to get the timing belt/timing checked out.

[KBB]

Then I would recommend using (beg/steal/borrow) the correct cam and crank locking tools. The cams sprockets sit on elongated bolt holes that allow quite a bit of movement. It the have been moved the markers may show correct position but the cams can be out.

Only way to be 100% accurate is to lock the cams from the rear with the correct tool.

[960kg]

........you will also have to remove the starter motor and turn the crank clockwise to allow a 10mm drift ( there is a special tool) to be slid into a hole after the blind plug has been removed then go anticlockwise so the crank web sits up against the drift.

It is easy to get it wrong so to check it is correct the mark on the Crankshaft timing pulley will have to correspond with the mark on the oil pump. Then you can adjust the belt and pulley.

[GaryS40]

Originally Posted by KBB

when you say slow starting do you mean the engine cranks at a slow speed?

No, it takes about 5 seconds to fire, instead of the usual 1 second.

Gary

[brynmor530]

I thought I should update you about the intermittent poor starting on my car. It's not perfect now but it is much better than before. As you know I fitted the new FPR, cleaned out the vacuum pipe connector on the inlet, cleaned out the idle air control valve with no noticeable change but after a few weeks use it's getting better. Where as it would start quickly once in every 10 goes now that's pretty much reversed. Haven't had time to check the cam timing yet but 9 out of ten is pretty good. Maybe the engine management needed a little time to adjust after those parts were replaced/cleaned?

[sarumboy]

There has to be a common reason here - mine is doing exactly the same thing now! Having changed a few bits up to three weeks ago (always with Volvo parts) and getting nowhere, I decided to leave it until there's a chance to get a proper diagnosis done and, HEY PRESTO, it's getting better!

Instead of a 6 or 7 second crank every time, it's now a 1 or 2 second crank every seven out of ten tries. Really weird.

Does the ems really have a mind of its own, which is what it seems like.

[960kg]

Having known what owners try to do when replacing parts they always try to scrimp on the wallet and when i replaced my FPR on the `98 T4 i needed "O" rings which were £6.26 for 2 and it cost me £30 odd for them, this was 3yrs ago

The old ones do distort and swell and sometimes will not be seated correctly so then air may leak past giving the engine a still longer cranking time because of a weak mixture.

You can always check this by squirting WD 40 at the injector where it meets the head while it`s idling.

The ECU is very clever on our motors and does learn all that is given to it.

Perhaps disconnecting the battery when changing the FPR may resort to basic settings otherwise the ECU will still use the settings it had while the old faulty one was fitted until it learns otherwise.

I do hate changing batteries on my V70 T5 as all the settings it has learnt go back to basics and when i go out the first time it is quite sluggish for some time until after going WOT for length of times it all comes back again.

[brynmor530]

Thanks for confirming that 960kg. I'll test the injector O rings as well just to be sure they are sealing correctly. Although I didn't have to disturb any of the fuel rail or injectors when I replaced the FPR, given the environment the O rings sit in, no doubt they can leak from age alone.

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by brynmor530

Thanks for confirming that 960kg. I'll test the injector O rings as well just to be sure they are sealing correctly. Although I didn't have to disturb any of the fuel rail or injectors when I replaced the FPR, given the environment the O rings sit in, no doubt they can leak from age alone.

The trick with fuel injection systems is simple, "Read the instructions", including the safety instructions. Nearly every marine diesel that I came across with injection system faults (Leaks in particular) had been incorrectly fiddled with. Often the wrong washers or O rings had been used (Or the old ones had been refitted), no one had used a torque wrench where required and often over torqued a fuel pipe union or damaged a injector clamp thread, so that it failed later. Common rail systems work at much higher pressures, so it's important to get everything right.

If you have a potential injector leak, it's worth remembering before you start sniffing around the system with the engine running, that the nice black engine cover offers excellent eye protection.
Most OEM injector O rings don't fail from age (Some cheaper ones do), but cheap fuel additives and even engine bay cleaners in some cases, can cause trouble with some types. Same trouble with fuel filter seals etc. Acetone is top of the list, but their are other solvents that can degrade a fuel or oil seal over a long time frame.