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Hello, just bought a '89 740 GL

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Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 00:14   #51
ton246
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
When i mentioned the LEDs i used for the instrument and switch lighting, i forgot to include the following links :

Instrument Cluster LEDs

Switch LEDs

This is what it looks like with blue LEDs although i'm thinking of changing to green :



The links i posted are to the sort of LEDs that i've found work best for where they are being used. There are numerous different types and i've tried most of them. Some give better spreads of light but aren't bright enough, others give much more brightness but also produce "spotting" where there is one very bright area and it fades over the rest of the area etc.
The reason im thinking of changing to green is i now have a pair of 940/960 window switches in the drivers door switchpack. These have a window symbol that lights up so the switches can be found after dark. There is a green LED inside them to provide the light and it's easier to change the dash and switch LEDs as they simply plug in than the ones in the window switches as they are sort of welded in and very fiddly to change.
Thanks for the links, must say the blue looks nice. Might try the window switch mod myself. How easy is it to change the bulbs ?
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Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 00:57   #52
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The instrument cluster bulbs are very easy. At the ends of the cluster at the bottom you have the clock setting knob one end and the dimmer control the other. There is a piece of plastic trim in the cluster behind these knobs - use a thin flat bladed screwdriver to pop this trim out. Easiest done working from the "outside in" - ease the end of the trim up with the screwdriver then slide the blade under the trim. It should then just pop off. Behind these small trims is a pair of screws, one each end. Remove these screws and you can then pull the cluster out. I find it easier to put the indicator and wiper stalks down one notch to give a bit of space for the cluster to come out. If the wiring is long enough, you should be able to pull the cluster out and turn it upside down so it rests on top of the binnacle. If it's not then you should still be able to get enough movement to get at the bulbholders. There's 4 of them (think they are brown holders from memory), remove by turning anti-clockwise and pulling. The bulbs are a push fit, simply pull the bulbs out and fit the new LEDs. Refit the bulbholders and (assuming you didn't have to unplug any of the plugs from the cluster) switch the ignition on to test they work. If any of them don't, remove the bulbholder, turn it half a turn and refit it. They should now work.

While the cluster is out, you can get at the holders for the smaller bulbs for the lighting and the heated rear window. Again the bulbs are a push fit so pull them out and fit the LEDs, test by switching the ignition on and if needed, remove and refit half a turn away to get them to work.
The heated seat switches are similar but i can't remember how to get at them just now, same goes for the cig lighter/ashtray.
The bulb for the heater controls/fan switch is tricky to replace with the LED version as the LEDs are slightly larger than the ordinary bulbs. It's very tight in that one and although i've got some ideas i haven't had the time to "have a play" - when i do i'll take some pics and do a write up on that as it is probably the only real awkward one.
Only things i haven't done yet are the seat belt buckle bulbs, mainly because i don't tend to look at them when putting the seat belt on but if i was being fussy i'd want them to work i suppose!

Planning on ordering the green LEDs to change mine sometime soon so i'll try to make time to do the heater one and the write up.
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Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 08:01   #53
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Old Strut......






New struts..........



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Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 12:01   #54
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Definite improvement! I think it's the biggest single improvement i've made to mine since i've had it - no more risk of being beheaded by the tailgate!
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Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 12:48   #55
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On the subject of tailgate struts, does anyone happen to know how easy it is to get to the pins in the pillars? One of mine isn't attached properly, and the pin goes into the strut at a funny angle such that once in a while it pops out and the tailgate descends at speed onto my noggin. I'm guessing that there's an access hole in the pillar behind the trim, but I haven't got round to investigating yet.
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Old Apr 3rd, 2013, 12:57   #56
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I was under the impression there was some sort of captive nut in the pillars which would mean that it has come adrift and probably isn't easy to get at.
That's probably not very helpful for you though but i guess the only way of finding out would be to remove the struts and trim and have a look.
Considering the stress the pins must be under, i would hazard a guess the captive nuts are actually welded inside the pillars so if the weld has broken the only thing i can think of would be to get some penny washers (aka mudguard washers) and use that between the captive (or even an ordinary) nut to secure the pin how it should be. That's if you can get a spanner inside the pillar of course.

Hopefully someone else will know more and be able to dispel my "doom & gloom" answer into a myth.
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Old Apr 7th, 2013, 09:56   #57
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Just won some goodies from ebay.................
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Old Apr 7th, 2013, 11:33   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ton246 View Post
Yep, just gone through the history file, and it's had both front and rear shocks replaced, timing belt replaced twice ( last one at 96k ),new radiator & water pump ( @ 116k ) numerous discs & pads ( both front & rear plus handbrake shoes at 108k ), and most recently fuel pressure regulator & fuel pipes.

I would say she had niv fitted new , Than new std one's replaced them But they have not changed the softer Springs .
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Old Apr 7th, 2013, 11:38   #59
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I know the answer to the old joke about how to keep a bunch of idiots in suspense is "I'll tell you all later" but joking aside, what have you won?

Forgot to mention, got my new green dash and switch LEDs through the post yesterday so will be a good excuse to do a photo session while i fit them and a write up after if that's helpful for you?
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Last edited by Laird Scooby; Apr 7th, 2013 at 11:44.
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Old Apr 7th, 2013, 12:17   #60
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I would say she had niv fitted new , Than new std one's replaced them But they have not changed the softer Springs .
That sounds very likely. Many moons ago when i was a very young pup, i ran a series of SD1 V8 Rovers. I had that on many of them as Nivomat Self-Levelling suspension was standard fit on the early SD1 V8's. Again, the springs were much softer than with standard shocks which by the time i owned the cars in question had been fitted. Pricewise, standard shocks were about £25-30 each and Nivomats were £180 each so that's a very good reason i expect!

Not looked into it but i would think the same price goes for the Volvo as well.
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