200FT Hard cold start. Pulls like a train when warm.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Fuel is meant to be rich at start up on a cold engine though!

BUT. Of those three scenarios that do or should result in rich fuel, one of them does not start this car! That is when that particular CTS is fitted and connected. So. What happens if a known good CTS is fitted and connected?

Worth eliminating that point init?

Am I really missing something here ???

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

BUT. Of those three scenarios that do or should result in rich fuel, one of them does not start this car! That is when that particular CTS is fitted and connected. So. What happens if a known good CTS is fitted and connected?

Worth eliminating that point init?

Am I really missing something here ???

I'm sure he has changed the CTS, can't remember where i saw it in the list of things done but i'm sure it's there somewhere.

Yes, you're right, nothing should be overlooked, like i said a long time ago in ths thread, this will either be something incredibly simple or complex, not sure which yet!
As such nothing should be overlooked!

[AndyV7o]

You're seemingly having the same thoughts as me Stephen!
Disconnecting it resulted in car starting, so lets acknowledge that and look at other things...
Everything is all valid and very good stuff, but Ive personally always focussed primarily on something as cut'n'dry as that and its associated paraphernalia before moving on (and so would the others at the garage where I did a stint many moons ago). It coukd be a red-herring, but its best to establish that first.
Not that I'm criticising anyone, as I said its all good, valid stuff and Im reading this thread with interest. Ive got basically no experience of volvos until about 6 weeks ago! When at the garage we had a couple in for service, but nothing faulty...
Fords on the other hand, escorts in particular, were plentiful, broken fuse box pcb's, burnt out valves, ignition modules and coils, blocked breathers, I could go on...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

You're seemingly having the same thoughts as me Stephen!
Disconnecting it resulted in car starting, so lets acknowledge that and look at other things...
Everything is all valid and very good stuff, but Ive personally always focussed primarily on something as cut'n'dry as that and its associated paraphernalia before moving on (and so would the others at the garage where I did a stint many moons ago). It coukd be a red-herring, but its best to establish that first.
Not that I'm criticising anyone, as I said its all good, valid stuff and Im reading this thread with interest. Ive got basically no experience of volvos until about 6 weeks ago! When at the garage we had a couple in for service, but nothing faulty...
Fords on the other hand, escorts in particular, were plentiful, broken fuse box pcb's, burnt out valves, ignition modules and coils, blocked breathers, I could go on...

I've repaired many Escort/Onion fuseboxes and later replaced them when the cost came down. It seemed like the Escrot was a particularly unreliable car, in fact it wasn't - there were just huge numbers of them on the road!
French cars on the other hand, same and worse faults but not as many of them yet more were faulty.............

[AndyV7o]

The cvh and early zetec were sh1tters though! If looked after like a new born lamb theyd be ok but rather intolerant of any minor abuse, ie the majority of owners
There was a guy with a smokey xr3i, he was told it was dying due to low compression, crappy breathers and the rest, his answer was to keep adding more 'tuning' items It had cone filter with a cold-air ram feed from the bottom of the front valance (so it could suck stuff & water up) and all sorts...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by AndyV7o

The cvh and early zetec were sh1tters though! If looked after like a new born lamb theyd be ok but rather intolerant of any minor abuse, ie the majority of owners
There was a guy with a smokey xr3i, he was told it was dying due to low compression, crappy breathers and the rest, his answer was to keep adding more 'tuning' items It had cone filter with a cold-air ram feed from the bottom of the front valance (so it could suck stuff & water up) and all sorts...

Early Zetec was a bit after my time in an ex-Ford dealers where i saw a 17k mile Escort 1.3CVH that had an absolutely shot engine - worn out, blew more smoke rings out of the exhaust than enough!
Never driven hard, owned by an old guy who bought it new in 83 on a "Y" when he retired, used once a week to go to the Post Office for his'n'hers pensions, a bit of shopping (....and £3 of telephone stamps, a TV Licence stamp etc) in the Post Office for freshly baked bread then another 3 miles onto the nearest town and supermarket.
An hour or so later, the 3 miles home again.
Why was it shot? The choke was never pushed in!

As for putting a CAI in the front valance, the hottest air above a road is in fact about 6" from the surface..............

I do remember seeing the official Ford memo saying the CVH was ONLY to be fitted with Bosch plugs (never Motorcraft) as all others would misfire in it!

The dealership (ex-Ford) was a Suzuki and Seat (when Seat were still independent of VAG and only just launched here) so i got to drive (and fix!) a wide variety of vehicles!

[AndyV7o]

The 1.3cvh was rather short-lived tbf, must've made some engineering c0ck up, had a bad rep and only made for a few years. You dont make a new engine and soon replace it with the old one for nowt!

Anyhoo, best not sidetrack the thread too much!

[Danders]

Evening chaps. Im reading this thread with interest too!

I had some time on he car on the weekend as I said and (I’ve been here many times before so say with some hesitation) I think I (we) made a breakthrough. I’m away for a few weeks now, so will confirm when I’m back, but in short summary...

- In tank pump working fine.

- Sampled fuel from test of the tank pump had no separation.

- ...cold start with the old temp sensor strapped to the block resulted in a very happy crank-flare and content idle... and then another immediately after...

Of course I excitedly retested the resistance of the two sensors at the ECU and found that they read the same.... mostly. What I had previously put down to my cheap knock off Fluke meter causing spurious readings when measuring resistance, looks like actually the new (fitted) sensor was giving spurious readings. By spurious I mean open circuit, then a second of recognisable resistance, then open circuit then various other resiatcnes in between. I guess I read what i wanted to see-the good reading and doubted my tool instead. Bad workmen eh?

I get a solid reading from the ‘old’ sensor.

I wrote on my phone so apologies for the typos, but wanted to keep you helpful people in the loop whilst away.


Now the reason I started the whole shenanigans was for poor start. First hit was the sensor. Second hit was replacing the dizzy. What I thinkbI actually did was fit a bad sensor. Then fix the dizzy, then the world of pain opened up.

Like I say though, I won’t hold my breath until a few more days running.

Thanks all so much for your help and encouragement - will Update again soon so future probalems may be more easily resolved for fellow owners.

[AndyV7o]

Updates are always good 👍 I hate unfinished stories, of which forums have many!

[Danders]

And the dodgy resistance readings are only on one pin of the ‘ new’ sensor. So I suspect the thermistor(?) on the pin, rather than the ground.