Amazon: My Amazon project - an attempt towards a reliable car

[Derek UK]

Yes the exhaust pipe extends through the flange by a few mm into the recess in the manifold outlet to help the seal. See pictures on Brookhouse.
https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...andard_Exhaust
I don't buy the expansion idea with regard to the bracket. It's the leverage of the exhaust on the manifold, especially as both the exhaust and engine are rubber mounted.
If your old exhaust is in reasonable condition an exhaust shop with a tube bender should be able to copy it in stainless. There are generic stainless silencers out there, hopefully in Iceland.

[samaron]

Thank you, Derek! Looks like I have to find a way to copy that part on the flange.

I didn't buy that theory about the bracket either. I've found that people come up with ridiculous things and usually best to go by my own judgement. Like with the carburetor leaks I had. Several insisted it was because of the new evil ethanol mixed petrol that came on the market this year. Didn't buy that one either, and surprise... was the new fuel pump overpressurizing the carburetor.

Unfortunately exhaust shops isn't a thing here in Norway. Custom exhausts is something I have to sort out myself. At least the exhaust is in okay condition and will be a good template.
Looking around online, I have found some web shops that sell stainless pipes with and without bends, as well as other exhaust components like silencers. However, I think the expectation is that people doing custom work also want large diameter pipes to enhance sounds. My Amazon has narrow pipes, maybe 1" or so. I can't recall the exact number right now, but I remember it was smaller than B18/B20 exhausts. Might be a challenge to find appropriate pipes, but I suspect I need to compromise and deal with the consequences of larger diameter pipes if I want stainless.

[Derek UK]

Larger bore exhausts also slow down the gas and on a standard engine that can reduce the extraction. I don't think you will have to do anything special with the flange. You just have to weld the pipe into the flange with a bit sticking out. If you deliberately make it few mm too long you can then grind it down for the best fit. Just make sure there is enough clearance to allow a proper crush on the gasket. You'll just be copying the original. Just get the angles right or the pipe will point in the wrong direction!

[samaron]

I think the challenge will be to find a supplier with stainless pipes in the appropriate dimensions. The manifold inlet diameter is 38 mm, and 9mm to the step inside.
The pipes that are readily available for me are 63,5 and 76 mm, which doesn't fit. Those would probably also give the car that distinct sound of someone trying to make it appear sportier than it is.

[Derek UK]

What is the condition of your current exhaust system? I note that the parts book shows a small fish shaped box in the front pipe but the Brookhouse one just has 2 sections of plain pipe. Because the first section of pipe is always very hot it usually lasts well. The pipes and boxes get cooler as the go to the rear and the subsequent condensation at he very back rarely gets hot enough to evaporate if you only do short runs. Result is the back boxes rust out first. If you can use part of the front pipe in conjunction with stainless sections the system should last OK. SS systems for the B18 Amazon are available and you could like use the majority of that. The Brookhouse steel system for the B16 is not too bad a price, a lot cheaper than one for the B18A, but shipping would add quite a bit to it. The same is true for an SS one of course.

[gjr0]

38 mm (1 1/2") stainless tubing seems to be readily available in the US. These guys make exhaust parts and also have pre-made bends.
https://www.profusionexhausts.com/38...be-pipe-1-5mm/

[samaron]

The exhaust system isn't leaking. The pipes are a bit crusty. The front pipe with the fish shaped box is intact, but I am uncertain if it can mate up with the B18 pipes. The silencer has a different part number, and I recall the exhaust tip was slightly smaller than on the B18/B20 cars at a car meet I went to. The web shops here sell the stainless as a kit, so I would need to pay the full price when I need only parts of it. Importing from abroad is very cost prohibitive at the moment with the poor exchange rates. The new money laundering laws also make it very inconvenient to pay foreign invoices.

The regular steel exhaust is about the same price for both B16 and B18 here. Roughly 350 quid with the current exchange rates. I'm a bit hesitant to use regular steel, as past experience tell me a brand new exhaust system lasts about 5 years before it develops leaks (or fall apart) from rust. As you mentioned, Derek, the rear often have the problems.

I will need to do some more research and thinking to find the best approach. Your replies so far have been appreciated.

[samaron]

Came across some interesting information. Had someone claim the vehicle identification plate in my car isn't original because the numbers are stamped into it from the top. Apparently the numbers are supposed to be stamped from behind to make them protrude. The type designation (P12004) supposedly isn't a valid number either.

Did some searching around on Volvo Amazon Pictures and found that, in fact, everything checks out.

amazon5.jpg

What I found the most interesting was that the number 4 in the type number tells what equipment the car came with. Turns out the car came without seat belts, windscreen washer, mud flaps on the front and only partial undercarriage treatment. I have gotten told off in the past for the lack of seat belts. Not because of safety, but because it is factory original, no exceptions. I found that a bit hard to believe. At least I have some more evidence on what equipment the car is supposed to have now besides the owner's handbook.

Because the windscreen washer is third party, I checked the front mud flaps today. No marking whatsoever indicating they're Volvo Original. Probably aftermarket too.

Another piece of information I found on the site is that the exhaust was 38 mm (1 1/2") and was changed to 44 mm (1 3/4") from ch. no. 12793. The silencer was also changed at that point. Might not mate up properly with B18 exhaust pipes, then. This also confirms that I did indeed see a size difference when compared to the other Amazons at the meet I went to.

I think I will leave the car fairly original and not reinstall the front mud flaps. I'll remove the windscreen washer too, as it doesn't work right. Vacuum powered system, and when I push the button it doesn't stop when I let go. It keeps going for 30 seconds or so before the stream dies out. I very rarely use the washer in general, so nice to have the option to remove it. It just leaves a hole in the dashboard. Perhaps I can find a vintage momentary switch and add a push button for the wipers to do one cycle at a time. At least it is something useful that fills the hole.

[samaron]

Disassembled my front and rear bumpers yesterday and have spent a few hours brushing off rust on the insides. Gave some of the parts some beating with the hammer as well. For the most part its just surface rust on the inside, but ended up with some holes. The pieces that ended up with holes have some old impact damage. I assume the chrome plating must've cracked in those areas.
Assumed reproduction bumper parts would be readily available, but the suppliers I use don't have them in stock at the moment. I've also read somewhere that the marked supposedly is flooded with reproduction parts in stainless steel, but I have yet to find someone that sell that. Everything so far seem to be sourced from VP Autoparts, which is chromed steel.
Looks like I just have to file the holes less sharp and use them for a while as is.

20230930_164825.jpg

I've also made some progress on the exhaust.

Found a shop that specialize in racing/rally parts that sell stainless pipes with 38 mm (1-1/2") diameter. No silencer with appropriate connections, but I suppose the welder should be able to adapt one intended for larger pipes.

Asked around about the fish shaped box in the front, and were told by a Swede that it isn't a silencer. It is in fact a spark arrestor. Considering that it has been omitted on later exhaust systems, it can probably safely be left out. Most likely I'd have to engineer my own contraption as it doesn't appear to be common to have on exhausts for normal passenger cars.

In the process of finding out where to get the pipes, I had someone claim I absolutely should use larger size pipes. Apparently the factory ones are "severely undersized", even for my car. I didn't question the bloke, as past experience tell me it is most likely a futile act.
Out of curiosity, I searched around for exhaust pipe calculators and fed in some numbers. Tried multiple, and all of them came up with that the 38 mm pipes are just fine. I'm not an automotive engineer, and could very well be some other factors I'm not aware of at play, but I'm still not convinced about the claim.
Still, Volvo did "upgrade" the size from 38 mm to 44 mm around ch. no. 12793. I have a feeling this is due to the sports model that got introduced. The calculators usually said I could have slighly less, like 31 mm pipes, but 38 mm is fine and good for around 90 HP. The sports model has 85 HP or so, which would put it close to the "limit." My assumption is the change was done to give some overhead for the sports model without affecting the performance of the non-sport. Using the same exhaust on both should save some production cost.

I could be completely wrong, of course. Regardless, I haven't found stainless 44 mm pipes anywhere, so I either have to go for 51 mm (2") or 38 mm. Going 51 mm would probably give the exhaust that sporty sound I want to avoid. Perhaps it even would harm the performance?

[Derek UK]

I might guess that the bumper corner you show with the holes is the rear one above the exhaust? The rather acidic fumes can rot out the steel from the inside until all that is left is the chrome. That doesn't last long! Stainless bumpers are cheaper than chrome ones but I don't think they are available with the early over riders. They are a slightly different shape. I have them on my '67 Combi. Over 12 years old now and still fine although the painted coating on the inside that is there to cover up all of the hammer marks is peeling in places. Overall quality now is better than what it was like with these early ones.