Oh 'eck 'Tank' is not at all well.......

[chesters6]

i have a 1010 watt angle grinder so its a bit powerful for delicate work ,those 1mm disks though have so little resistance you can cut extremely finely in areas you would think twice about with a standard 3.2mm disk.
i may treat myself to a smaller version this year sometimes powerful isnt the best in some cases ,the chap who gave me the disks has a very small grinder (physically) i may have a peek at who makes it ,with the thin disks you dont need big motors to cut with them.
they dont last long ofcourse on hardened metal like bearings but it saves cutting half way through and belting with a chisel for hours,one cut one blow and it was free

they are the ones on this page ,i must ask him where he buys his from
http://www.specialplasters.co.uk/ind...&productId=106

[andy_d]

other than the 1/2 shaft + inner seal bits to make sure you have are "grease , for bearing" (the one on the new shaft from the brakers), diff oil (EP80/90 USED to be the more common type,,but please check which EP rating the volvo wants).
you will need to top the diff up, which will mean getting further under the car, finding the fill plug and a few "words" to get it undone, the long tube on the oil bottle into and fill as per instructions,, haynes book of jokes usually gets this right so a big sigh of "phew" there.

sounds silly but do you have any "brake cleaner" ? that will shift the oil + resudue and muck off the bits with it on , so you can see a Lot better if anythings amiss after replacing the bits.
please do check the pads/shoes for that wheel, and if any oil contamination , bin em and fit new (sorry to your wallet). Its really not worth the risk if they have signs of contamination on them, and oil + brakes isnt a good mix.

i know its cold as "ahem" but if you can take the time to clean all the oil related muck off the bits your working on prior to refitting it will be a benifit to you checking for leaks/other later on.

PS, Some spray on brake cleaners need to be used in a well ventilated space, please try not to breath the fumes/spray in incase,,and yes i think "outside" is well ventilated enough.

[Paul240480]

Thanks Andy.

I have the correct grease in my shed. Brake cleaner spray too, but I think it is getting low, so will another can to my shopping list along with some more oil for the diff. I'm quite confident of the drain & fill plugs shifting okay, as I did a re-fill in 07 ish & they were okay then

The disc was free of oil when I removed it, calliper & pads looked dry too, so I think I got away with it on that score. Of course I will re-check before re-fitting.

The seal is on its way 'Brookhouse Simon' has split one from a bearing kit for me, what a star

The diff oil I used last time was API GL-5 SAE 90 Hyphoid gear lubricant (1.3 ltrs), think it wasa texaco version I found in my local halfrauds type place.

[Paul240480]

Had another little look this morning at Tank. There is, I understand now some sort of hardened steel carrier that the bearing sits into & this is in front of the inner seal. So said carrier has to come out first.

I've tried to 'hook' it out with a screwdriver, but only suceeded in braking a bit off of the rubber seal & finding it has a metal spring inside it's circumference! Well it had! that spring is now out, see pics!


Not sure how to proceed from here. If I 'go at it' with a lever I'm bound to damage something?

[minesa240x3]

Hi Paul glad to see with lots of help you have managed to progress this far,The inner seal will have to be levered out but if you can't get it to move by going all around twisting a screwdriver in different positions then try chopping through it with the screwdriver.Just be carefull not to damage any of the metal axle surround.Thats the outer bit the seal sits against.The bit it hits against in the centre isn't so critical.So aim the screwdriver straight into the direction of the halfshaft..Once chopped it should almost fall out.When replacing the new seal you will have to try and keep it very square or it will jam and possibly distort.gentle tapping on the outer rim working all the way round will get it started.

Wish I had some photoes as I've done this twice before and it's quite easy Once you've done it a few times.
You are doing a blinding job considering the weather and all.
Regards Brian.

[Paul240480]

Thanks Brian. I've not done any more since my last post this morning. Would rather wait for a reply before going at & stuffing something up lol.

So is there some sort of 'carrier' that needs to be removed before the seal comes out, or is it the seal next?

Could I carefully cut through it with a modeling knife now the metal spring is out of the?

[940_Turbo]

There is no carrier that has to come out. All you have to do is hook the seal out. Use a seal hook like in my photo, a slide hammer with a hook on it or a bent screwdriver will do it. If you're careful you can collapse the seal inwards. The trick is not to damage its seat, which is why I prefer to hook them out.

The spring goes inside the lip of the seal. When you fit the new seal, fill the lip with vaseline. That'll stop the spring from popping out as you knock the seal in. You need to start searching for a suitable diameter drift to get the seal into the axle tube square.

[minesa240x3]

As said above there is no carrier,The seal is soft metal covered in rubber!So just beneath the outer rubber is a soft steel ring which is what stops it from deforming.Unless you have something suitable to get behind the seal to hook it out then use a screwdriver,Now to try and explain?You know when you prise off the lid on a tin of paint?Well you need to do this but on the inner edge of the seal.If you get behind it and rest the shaft of the screwdriver against the bearing carrier(axle)and tap it then gradually work your way round the seal.
When you go to refit the new seal the drift ideally needs to be the same diameter as the outer edge as this is the metal bit.But if you don't have a tube or socket this size then as I said offer it up to the inner of the axle and push it in as square as you can and gently start to tap it home.It is soft metal so be carefull.maybe a soft length of wood might help instead of the metal part of the hammer.
Regards Brian.

At the end of the day so long as it's in and fairly square it should seal as it's new!So don't be scared of it.You could always do a better job later on when it's nice and sunny.might even pay to do the other side now you are getting to know how relatively simple it is.

[Paul240480]

Okay, thanks turbo & brian. Glad I waited now

brian, that soft steel ring thing is already out - think it is the thing in my pic in post this morning. I got behind it & hoped it would bring the seal out, but it came away on it's own & left the seal firm & tight & in place.

Need to try again now

[minesa240x3]

Hi Paul the springy thing you pulled out is to aid the soft inner seal lip to sit against the shaft!The whole thing is coated in rubber and the bit that sits on the external part of the axle has a very thin layer of rubber around it.The bit you cut off with the screwdriver is soft as the outer ring only is metal.
As I tried to explain but not very well.Imagine you have the lid off the paint now and just stirred it with the screwdriver!Well lay the screwdriver across the top but with the end of the screwdriver under the lip of the tin????This is how you should tackle prising out the seal.
Regards Brian.