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Swirl Arm low cost repair!Views : 169800 Replies : 183Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 2nd, 2014, 17:21 | #51 |
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Last Online: Dec 17th, 2014 17:21
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Kings Lynn
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Swirl Arm Repair
Hi all,
I thought I would post my solution to this issue as this thread was particularly useful when it came to making the repair. I have a V50 D5 Automatic from 2007 which has the old style link with a rose joint on the swirl flap and on the motor / actuator and holes in both ends of the link which should click over the top. My car has covered roughly 57000 miles and the linkage was worn out at the engine end. After a kick down to accelerate the dreaded message of 'engine system service required' came up. Engine revs were restricted to 3000rpm under heavy acceleration. After a trip to the dealer and being told it was £650 to repair the linkage I thought I would have a bash myself. I had to remove the rocker cover which is a bit of a chore, as documented elsewhere! Once in I removed the swirl flaps, drilled a 3mm hole through the rose joint at the engine end, filed and cut down an M3 bolt to the correct length and then gently pushed it through. I then put a new linkage I had bought from eBay on. Following this I placed an M4 then an M3 washer and then a nut on to stop the linkage coming off the joint. Finally I tapped the end of the bolt over with a trusty hammer to stop the nut coming off. I would rather have used an M3 nyloc but this was hard to come by over the festive period. I then placed the flaps back in the appropriate place, reassembled the rocker cover and fired it up. Everything works fine and the error has gone away to boot. The only parts I had to buy were the link (£11), as previously described and 5 new copper injector washers which have to be replaced (£20). One thing to be careful of, as I am sure everyone is aware, is not to strip the threads when tightening the rocker cover and injectors back up, the block is only aluminium and this is very easily done as I nearly found out! If you have the old style linkage you won't be able to get it from your dealer unless they have stock as it has now been superseded by the newer link. I have attached a couple of photographs in the hope they may aid someone in the future. Thanks ever so much for the previous comments as they really did help. Happy new year, Ed |
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Jan 2nd, 2014, 23:47 | #52 |
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Last Online: Jul 22nd, 2017 23:24
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Londonderry
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That was an enterprising trick. My 07 S80 has the same problem. Bought a new link arm but it wouldn't stay on.
Tell me, is there an oil seal where the shaft goes in? I've also got an oil weep from that area. |
Jan 3rd, 2014, 00:18 | #53 |
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Last Online: Jul 22nd, 2017 23:24
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Londonderry
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So are we saying that only one inlet valve per cylinder is actually in operation at lower revs?
And if the butterflies are uncontrolled and flapping about when the connecting arm is off, what position do they want to assume (closed or open)? Will the airflow want to close them? Or will they want to maintain an open position? If you were to lock the swirl shaft in the open position (assuming this is with the rose joint pulled out towards the swirl motor) then you should have both inlet valves getting air, and you shouldn't have any performance issues on acceleration? And mpg should also be OK. Perhaps Clan could verify this? |
Jan 6th, 2014, 13:05 | #54 |
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Last Online: Dec 17th, 2014 17:21
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Location: Kings Lynn
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Hi jp11,
There is an o-ring in the plastic clip that the rod with the flaps slides through This then sits in the top of the engine. I think after a while this o-ring wears a little and some oil weeps out. I have a similar thing but didn't think it was enough to worry about. In answer to your second point, from what I saw there are two inlets per cylinder, one with the flaps and one without. At lower revs the flaps are open to allow as much air as possible in to the cylinder to give a good burn and reduce emissions. At high revs the flaps are shut as enough air flows into the cylinder. A description of this is given in the PDF document I have attached which was given earlier in the thread. In my case the trouble was, when the link broke the flaps were left open meaning performance at low revs is ok, but at high revs there was too much air, hence the performance was reduced. The error that was picked up by the ECU in my case was Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) sensing too much air. Therefore if you I had locked it open, I would have had reduced performance at high revs as there would be too much air flow. I am not sure what would have happened if I locked it shut... For reference, on my car, open is with the joint pushed towards the engine, closed is with the joint pulled away from the engine. I have now covered 300 miles and the mod seems to be holding up. Let's hope it continues! At least we don't have BMWs which apparently have a habit of sucking these flaps into the engine! I hope this helps and I hope you can get a fix sorted Cheers, Ed |
Jan 10th, 2014, 08:31 | #55 |
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Last Online: Jan 8th, 2018 11:12
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: cambridge
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HI
Ok i have the new part from Volvo, is one of the clips spare or do you put both on? Here is the affected area on my car, it appears that only the ball joint has snapped and that this part 'Clips' in. Can i get the original part and just refit it or do Volvo not make this part any more? My theory would be to refit it and hope it lasts another 7 years before burning a 2mm hole through the bracket and attaching the new pin. |
Jan 10th, 2014, 11:34 | #56 |
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Last Online: Jun 7th, 2024 20:13
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kent, UK
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Clips
I used both on mine, you should be able to get both on ..
You might have to grind out some of the casting area where the 'nail head' end moves past it. I found this fouls the casting when pushed fully back (which would have added more trouble / strain to the linkage) a dremel is perfect for this kinda thing ... Clarke do a similar tool CRT-40 which is good for tight spaces which machine mart sell at a good price. |
Mar 3rd, 2014, 15:40 | #57 |
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Last Online: Jul 9th, 2021 14:16
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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V70 swirl flaps
Hi all
Having problems with engine service req coming on a number of times. the arm has been renewed by an indy but keeps coming off. the previous time I removed it completely and im pretty sure I moving the motor back and moved the butterfly and it has been ok with no message for a couple of months. The other day after higher than usual revs the message came back & can be erased by pressing the read button on the stalk. There is no lack of performance with the car and the position of the butterfly does not seem to have an effect on the engine could this have a detrimental effect ultimately(until a repair as per the posts on the nail repair and PDF explaining operation of swirl action) is done or a new swirl flap assembly is fitted indy wants £450 I trust this will include a modified connection on the butterfly-arm socket. The problem seems quite common and the concences of opinion on the repair is mixed, also which is open and closed on the flaps away or towards the block with the butterfly. Thanks in advance for comments. Tony. |
Mar 3rd, 2014, 16:11 | #58 |
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Last Online: Oct 31st, 2019 10:38
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: suffolk
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Depending on the age, the later style link arms can be turned around so they stay on. You'll need a pair of decent pliers (ideally pump pliers so the grip is parallel) to force it on.
When mine went this is what I ended up doing and had no more issues. Is seems the ball joint gets warn and the little recess on the arm is not thick enough to hold it on, but if you reverse it with the larger collar holds it nicely and the reverse angle of the arm doesn't seem to affect operation - it probably puts more stress on the arm but at £3 a pop its worth ago - not that mine ever went again (10k miles). Also when the arm was not connected I didn't notice any performance difference, but in the cold weather did take longer to heat up.
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Mar 17th, 2014, 13:46 | #59 |
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Last Online: Jun 16th, 2015 15:11
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Location: flint
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Swirl Repair
Swirl instructions here from Volvo Newsletter
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Apr 1st, 2014, 21:52 | #60 |
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Last Online: Nov 1st, 2023 21:12
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Aix en Provence
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Dear all,
I would like to install a bump stop on the servo arm, as proposed at the beginning of the Thread. I had a look this week-end, and did not suceeded to witness the calibration process. I started and then stopped the motor 6 or seven toimes, and no calibration... It is a 2006 V70 phase II D5 163cV. Would you have additional information about the calibration process occurence ? Did the bump stop on the servo arme proved efficient on the long run to ultimatly sole the swirl arm issue ? Kind regards, JMF |
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