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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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0W30 or 5W30Views : 56864 Replies : 194Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 25th, 2016, 12:18 | #51 |
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No, it doesn't burn any oil.
I've always used the Castrol Edge but I think I'll move to the Shell 5W30. Thanks. |
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Jul 25th, 2016, 12:34 | #52 | |
2008 XC90 D5 SE
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Tim, As discussed on the phone minutes ago -Ive bought the wrong oil from you. Ive decided to err on the side of caution and return my oil (at my own cost) and I have already ordered Helix Ultra A5/B5 5W-30 from your site with next day delivery. Thanks again for great information on here and our chat earlier. Last edited by colinbos; Jul 25th, 2016 at 12:38. |
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Jul 25th, 2016, 12:51 | #53 |
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Hi
Glad to have helped out. Sorry it's a pain to swap the oils over, but it is the safe option. Cheers Tim
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Jul 26th, 2016, 08:14 | #54 | |
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If you are chasing best fuel economy figures then stick to an 0w30, BUT I would add half a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec as that will beef up the anti wear additives and is approved for DPF's. Both Acea C and E cats have restricted additive levels, so using Ceratec does make sense, although it's of more use in an older engine. Shell Ultra seems to be the cheapest full synthetic at present, although that situation could change.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
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Jul 26th, 2016, 09:58 | #55 |
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If a car requires an A5/B5 oil for the DPF, you can't just put in another spec as that can lead to a blocked DPF. I've dealt with a fair few D5 engines with DPFs and even when they have used a low ash oil rather than A5/B5 (the one that comes to mind is someone who used the Motul Eco Clean C2 rather than their Eco-nergy 0w-30), the DPF warning light kept coming on.
I don't advise the use of oil additives. Even ones that seem harmless can effect the oil chemistry and make the oil less effective. One company that I know of was developing a new additive technology, so they tried it with their own oils and the oil became less effective, so they had to come up with a different basestock to use with the new additive package. There is no reason to change the oil grade at a certain mileage point. I often see that you should use a thicker oil when a car has covered a lot of miles (often 100k is mentioned), but it doesn't make sense. The only real reason to go to a thicker oil is when the engine is badly worn, leading to oil consumption issues. Cheers Tim
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Jul 26th, 2016, 15:11 | #57 | |
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Thicker oil over 100,000 miles ? why? There will be no measurable wear ie everything still in tolerance , unless something has been neglected .... Volvo engines go better and better with age , especially when over 100,000 miles ..
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Jul 26th, 2016, 18:16 | #58 | |
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Jul 26th, 2016, 18:54 | #59 | |
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The main blocks do last well, but the turbo bearings benefit most from both top of the range oils like Ultra or M1 that are a tad on the thick side. SAE ratings cover a range of viscosities and HM oils (Extended Life in Mobil terms) are nearly all at the top of their range, although M1 10w60 is an exception, as it's almost into the 50 range. GTX is a bit of a cheap option but like Maxlife it should help cut oil consumption and leaks. M1 10w60 is kind of a last stand oil for when the main bearings start to fail. PS: There is no need to use a major brand oil additive like Ceratec until over 100K, the amount of wear reduction is debatable but they will reduce the damage done if you run out of coolant, oil or suffer a HG failure or serious overheat.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) Last edited by skyship007; Jul 26th, 2016 at 18:59. |
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Jul 27th, 2016, 09:33 | #60 |
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High mileage oils are just a marketing thing, selling thick oil to the people that think at 100k their engine needs a thicker oil for more money than the standard version, pretty much the same idea as 'Diesel' oils. The Mobil Extended Life was developed as an oil for motorsport applications, as a replacement for the 15w-50 (10w-60 has become a more popular grade than 15w-50).
There isn't really such a thing as a high mileage oil. Often it's just a thick oil, some others say they contain seal swelling agents to help worn seals (all decent oils should have that anyway) and when you ask some of the companies what the difference is between their normal 15w-40 and 15w-40HM is, they can't tell you. Higher viscosity oils do not mean better protection. You're right about the block being fine and it's the bearings that need help, but a thicker oil doesn't necessarily help that. A synthetic will have a better film strength than a mineral oil of the same grade, but most HM oils are mineral based. Using a thicker oil also puts more strain on the oil pump and components. Back to the D5 DPF thing again, I don't think there are any A5/B5 HM oils, so they will not be suitable for a DPF equipped D5. Yes, a lot of cars are not well looked after and you can never be sure how it's been treated by previous owners, but there are plenty that are fine and they do not need high mileage oils or thicker oils than standard. I do not deal with Ligui Moly, so I am not sure about what their additives claim to do or how they work, but a lot of additives basically thicken the oil, reducing protection and putting more strain on the components. I just don't see the need or benefit of an additive and my car is on 156k and using the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40. I get no leaks, no consumption and as it's a better oil than the standard 10w-40/15w-40 the dealership had been putting in before I got it, it will be protecting the bearings more than over the last 14 years. Cheers Tim
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