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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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What did you do to your 850/X70 today???Views : 151574 Replies : 937Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 9th, 2022, 22:54 | #771 |
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Last Online: Apr 20th, 2023 21:16
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Location: St Neots, Cambs.
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Lights
Hi all,
Was at Lakes today and with help from another regular at Lakes we converted the unused section of the 850/V70 light cluster. Just thought it would be fun to do......what do you guys think!?
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1991 940 TD - straight six turbo diesel - some people hate them I love them! |
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Apr 13th, 2022, 12:53 | #772 | |
Grumpy Old Git
Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 09:16
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Location: South Yorkshire
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Quote:
I can't tell the brightness from the pic though - are those just the sidelights switched on (not fogs)? If its all equally bright, and no possibility of confusion between brakes/fogs and sidelights, then it should pass an MoT too - the lens is still E marked Having said that, I'd be tempted to use those upper areas for brake lights
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S40 2.4i '07 Japanese import '96 850R - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312484 Ex Danish Embassy '96 940 GLE LPT - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=326071 |
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Apr 13th, 2022, 14:43 | #773 |
Clogs
Last Online: Dec 26th, 2023 08:04
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Canterbury
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High level rear lights
They must be side lights as the two lower ones are on (as they should be when side and headlamp lights are on) and the middle tailgate brake light isn't. Only one bulb lights up on braking on each side (the top one of the two red lights).
It's a good idea to have brake lights higher up as well in the empty space, but not too bright. I've put LEDs in the reversing lights which are much brighter than the brake light 21Watt filament bulbs. Will it affect the bulb failure system if there are additional bulbs? |
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Apr 17th, 2022, 10:51 | #774 |
Grumpy Old Git
Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 09:16
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Location: South Yorkshire
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I've put LEDs in the reversing positions too - makes a reasonable difference IMHO.
Re the additional bulbs in the circuit, IIRC the system checks for a difference between left and right hand side resistance, and illuminates the warning lamp if the sides differ. So, if that is right (and it may not be!), adding an equal number of left/right lamps shouldn't matter. Its the additional electrical load on the wiring that you need to be mindful of, so that the cable isn't overloaded. Thats even more of a problem on our 25+ year old wiring looms
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S40 2.4i '07 Japanese import '96 850R - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312484 Ex Danish Embassy '96 940 GLE LPT - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=326071 |
Apr 17th, 2022, 11:00 | #775 |
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Quote:~
"Re the additional bulbs in the circuit, IIRC the system checks for a difference between left and right hand side resistance, and illuminates the warning lamp if the sides differ. So, if that is right (and it may not be!), adding an equal number of left/right lamps shouldn't matter." ------------------------ ~ ------------------------- The above is correct for the '88 240 - so likely the same for other models. Bob. |
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Apr 17th, 2022, 18:34 | #776 |
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Decided to tackle my two stage bonnet pull. The symptom was when I pulled the bonnet release handle there were two distinctive clicks before the bonnet popped up. If I didn't pull the handle far enough and only one click was heard the near side was still latched.
I cut a slot in a small washer and fitted it between the lead end of the cable and the catch lever and squeezed it closed so that it wouldn't fall off. I tried it a few times by locking down the latches using a screwdriver before I closed the bonnet. The first pull with the bonnet closed and it felt a lot better but there was still two stages but nothing as bad as before so I cut a second thinner washer and fitted it beside the first and checked again a few times before closing the bonnet. Happy to report it now opens in one seamless motion NOTE... Be careful fitting washers, if they are too thick it will prevent the latch from closing over and locking in place Slot cut in washer to allow it to go over the cable. Once fitted it needs to have the gap closed to prevent it falling off Location of where to fit the washer(s) on the near side latch (UK car)
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MY2010 XC90 SE (M66-manual) Magic Blue (467) Sold MY1997 850 GLT (62,000 miles) Silver Sand (419) MY2005 V70 2.5T (66,000 miles) Willow Green (471) Volvo 850 GLT website |
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Apr 18th, 2022, 05:10 | #777 |
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Finally got round to sorting the boost issue on the T5. Replacing the TCV and vacuum hoses was on the cards for a while, but finding time was tricky what with a pile of other cars to sort for MOT etc. Initial inspection showed a broken vacuum hose at the TCV, and when the rest of the vacuum hoses were removed a lot of them had actually split underneath the small metal clamps as well.
I replaced the original Pierburg TCV (part number 7.21681.01 12) with a new Pierburg TCV (part number 7.28197.16.0) and replaced all of the perished vacuum lines. A quick road test showed all was now well again. The fuel cut off due to overboost initially caught me off guard. It's quite sudden and aggressive. One second you're boosting and the next it feels like you've hit a brick wall. If this happens under load it's important to sort it asap, given the well documented issues relating to bent conrods. Looking at the pic it's clear the vacuum hoses were overdue for replacement.
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1996 850 T5 - Sold 2003 S40 1.9d - Sold 2004 S60 D5 |
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Oct 27th, 2022, 22:19 | #778 |
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After three and a half years of enjoyment I've sold the 850. Gone to another home where I have full faith that it'll be well looked after. These cars are definitely worth keeping on the road. As the saying goes, they just don't make them like they used to!
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1996 850 T5 - Sold 2003 S40 1.9d - Sold 2004 S60 D5 |
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Oct 28th, 2022, 08:20 | #779 |
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I had a fairly productive day last weekend on my 99 V70 with 180k. It was little jobs that together have made the car feel much better -
1. Changed rear shocks, mounts and springs using sachs. 2. Greased all pads and clips to stop squeaking. 3. Greased boot struts, I fitted these new last year but the supplied lube was too little and the boot opening was very loud creaking. Now smooth and silent. Note that lubing the shafts didn’t do much, they needed removing and the ball joints greasing. 4. Successfully cleaned the electric window control panel with contact cleaner and a paint brush. It was very mucky and only the drivers window worked, with the rears getting stuck down and not up! It took two attempts but now all 4 work well up and down. 5. Also cleaned the key fob. It took 10+ presses at close range so I just used key in door. But now after contact cleaner it works well as it should from range. 6. Did the electrical tape fix on the rear seat brackets to stop squeaking. 7. Adjusted new handbrake shoes for good operation. These were mintex, I was prepared to swap them with genuine after reading up on here, however after ‘bedding in’ they work as they should on steep inclines. 8. Gave the interior a thorough hoover and a meguiars aircon bomb things. So all in all small jobs except the suspension, but even that was fairly straightforward. It has made the car feel so much better to use, it is very odd how smooth it drives, with no creaks or squeaks, and all electrics work as they should! Thanks! Last edited by duckhunt101; Oct 28th, 2022 at 08:23. |
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Dec 3rd, 2022, 20:08 | #780 |
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Fitted near side rear top damper mount on V70[no more bangs from suspension]and freed up/cleaned near side front brake caliper which was starting to "drag" seems to have cured it for now but if the problem returns new calipers aren't overly expensive.
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