Amazon: - Freebie Amazon project - Page 8

Gordon Hunter · Feb 7th, 2012, 18:11

My goodness. What a faff.
In my zeal to get on and finish the front end, I had forgotten to put the rad in and lined it all up and adjusted the flanges without it in place -incorrectly! Duh!
This cost me nearly a whole day in further faffing, cutting, shaping, etc.
At last it is welded in place and all seems to be a good fit.
Once I remove the front panel and the wings I'll spot weld the rad panels onto the inner wings which should help give it a more factory look.
Nice to see the car with the rad back in place. It's feeling more do-able now...

001.jpg

I've also spent a WHOLE DAY!!! tidying up the workshop and clearing out the store. I considered this a worthwhile sacrifice of time as I now have all the parts together in one place and neatly stored and sorted on shelves. The workshop is now a much safer place to be too...

002.jpg

Another half day was spent stripping down the bumpers and collecting lots of small parts for shot blasting. It's tha small bits that take AGES!... More soon...

Gordon Hunter · Feb 9th, 2012, 16:20

That's the radiator cowl panels spot welded in now. I also made up a couple of new wiring loom fixing tabs and spot welded those in on the top of the panels...

009.jpg

While the wings are on the car allowing easier access, I decided to take a dent out of the drivers side wing.
Here is my kit for dent removal including shrinking disk...

004.jpg

First I cover the area to be re-shaped in black marker pen...

001.jpg

Next I go over it with 120 grit. You can then see where the highs (shiney metal) and lows (marker pen) are...

002.jpg

I then use the hammer and dolly to bring up the lows and the shrinking disk to bring down the highs. It's just a process of patience before you get back to the original shape. This won't need any filler now, just a high build primer will do...

008.jpg

Here's a shot of the nearly finished spare wheel well.
I'm nearly there just some holes in the boot floor to deal with befor I can turn the car over and get stuck into the drivers side...

010.jpg

Tail · Feb 9th, 2012, 21:36

I had to google then and see what a shrinking disc does and how it works, excellent.

Gordon Hunter · Mar 12th, 2012, 22:33

Passenger side boot floor was hiding some nasty little rot holes...

Rotten corner.jpg

boot floor from inside.jpg

So I decided to remove the bumper mount and cut back everything...

Rot cut out.jpg

I cleaned the bumper mount up for re-use in the shot blasting cabinet and re-shaped it...

bumper bracket cleaned up.jpg

The car has had a smack up the back end at some point...

Ding in rear panel.jpg

This had just been bodged over with filler, so I repaired this with a chisel that I ground to shape out of some plastic Delrin rod...

repairing ding.jpg

with all the repair panels welded in by gas and spot welder, I just have an edge or two to blend in with the gas kit and I'll be able to plug weld that bracket back on. I've lined it up to the car with the mounting bracket from the chassis roller and bolted it back on to pull all the panels in flush...

Ready for welding.jpg

LankyTim · Mar 12th, 2012, 23:13

This thread really is tip-top!

nonhog · Mar 13th, 2012, 17:58

Nice going, very fast progress! Thanks for the motivation!

Gordon Hunter · Mar 31st, 2012, 21:47

I've broken the remaining work needed down into seperate areas...

Boot floor

1.) Fill in wierd drain hole things. These don't seem to serve any purpose other than to accelerate the rot on the Amazon's floor pan! Paul (222S) put forward a very plausible conclusion -they are not in fact drain holes, but jig locating holes for the assembly line. They could well be that, but whatever they are I'm going to gas weld them shut. They vary in condition from tolerable surface rust to completely rotten out. The following photo from the boot floor illustrates this very nicely...

003.jpg

2.) Repair bodge to RHS rear wheel arch...

006.jpg

3.) i.) Remove bodged cover plate and replace boot floor underneath. ii.) Replace side valance panel.

014.jpg

4.) Repair fuel tank recess lip...

001.jpg

Trailing arm bracket

Same story here as the LHS...

008.jpg

RHS Rear wheel arch

Usual collection of MOT cover plates here, so It'll all need to come off. This time I'm thinking of replacing the outer section of the arch with a new panel to save time...

010.jpg

011.jpg

012.jpg

013.jpg

One other thought is that the back panel has seen much bodgery and definately better days. I may end up just replacing this with a new one rather than spend hours trying to hammer / dolly it back. A smack on the back end has seperated the flanges enough to let moisture in and start the rot, so further down the line I'd probably regret not tackiling it now...

018.jpg

019.jpg

There's still a little finishing off to do on the LHS boot floor repairs, but it's all back together now, just needs a bit of tidying up...

007.jpg

Gordon Hunter · Apr 2nd, 2012, 18:20

Unfortunately rear panels are not in production at the moment and I don't feel like taking 6 months out to develop the tooling to make them!
So, it'll have to be 'make do and mend'. If I make decent repair panels, shot blast and then lead load seams it should last as well as a new panel.
It seems all my usual stockists are out of acetylene gas just now, so while I'm waiting for some to be shipped from Germany I've started disassembling the bodged repairs to the boot floor...

001.jpg

Looks like the car has had a smack up the rear on the drivers side too. More ropey repairs...

004.jpg

Tail · Apr 2nd, 2012, 18:56

When you said you were going to fit a new panel i did wonder if you had a secret supplier somewhere because mine allthough looks ok from the outside is starting to go from the inside and a new panel would make the job so much easier than the repairs it will need. Ah well maybe it can wait a bit longer......

Gordon Hunter · Apr 2nd, 2012, 19:42

The problem on mine is that with it having apparently had two shunts to the rear and as well as it being a difficult panel to access with a hammer and dolly, the force has stressed the flanges and let moisture in to rust it out too. One solution might be to replace the flange and part of the panel on the bottom edge and blend the rest into the radius at the bottom of the panel. A repair section like that wouldn't be too hard to make and that radius would absorb the heat from welding and give minimal warping. Also a good point to loose the join by blending in and polishing. A bit like I did on the LHS rear quarter bottom.

Mar 12th, 2012, 23:13	#75
LankyTim Missing the point Last Online: May 1st, 2024 18:59 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Stoke-On-Trent View Photos By: LankyTim	This thread really is tip-top! __________________ Tim 1968 Volvo 145 long term project. Currently without a Volvo daily driver.

Mar 13th, 2012, 17:58	#76
nonhog Senior Member Last Online: Jun 26th, 2022 22:30 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Seattle/Tacoma View Photos By: nonhog	Nice going, very fast progress! Thanks for the motivation! __________________ 80 Bertone 5.0 Ford swap underway. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129720 66 Amazon Estate mild mods in the near future. (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332836)

Feb 7th, 2012, 18:11	#71
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	My goodness. What a faff. In my zeal to get on and finish the front end, I had forgotten to put the rad in and lined it all up and adjusted the flanges without it in place -incorrectly! Duh! This cost me nearly a whole day in further faffing, cutting, shaping, etc. At last it is welded in place and all seems to be a good fit. Once I remove the front panel and the wings I'll spot weld the rad panels onto the inner wings which should help give it a more factory look. Nice to see the car with the rad back in place. It's feeling more do-able now... 001.jpg I've also spent a WHOLE DAY!!! tidying up the workshop and clearing out the store. I considered this a worthwhile sacrifice of time as I now have all the parts together in one place and neatly stored and sorted on shelves. The workshop is now a much safer place to be too... 002.jpg Another half day was spent stripping down the bumpers and collecting lots of small parts for shot blasting. It's tha small bits that take AGES!... More soon...

Feb 9th, 2012, 16:20	#72
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	That's the radiator cowl panels spot welded in now. I also made up a couple of new wiring loom fixing tabs and spot welded those in on the top of the panels... 009.jpg While the wings are on the car allowing easier access, I decided to take a dent out of the drivers side wing. Here is my kit for dent removal including shrinking disk... 004.jpg First I cover the area to be re-shaped in black marker pen... 001.jpg Next I go over it with 120 grit. You can then see where the highs (shiney metal) and lows (marker pen) are... 002.jpg I then use the hammer and dolly to bring up the lows and the shrinking disk to bring down the highs. It's just a process of patience before you get back to the original shape. This won't need any filler now, just a high build primer will do... 008.jpg Here's a shot of the nearly finished spare wheel well. I'm nearly there just some holes in the boot floor to deal with befor I can turn the car over and get stuck into the drivers side... 010.jpg

Feb 9th, 2012, 21:36	#73
Tail Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Newton Abbot	I had to google then and see what a shrinking disc does and how it works, excellent.

Mar 12th, 2012, 22:33	#74
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Passenger side boot floor was hiding some nasty little rot holes... Rotten corner.jpg boot floor from inside.jpg So I decided to remove the bumper mount and cut back everything... Rot cut out.jpg I cleaned the bumper mount up for re-use in the shot blasting cabinet and re-shaped it... bumper bracket cleaned up.jpg The car has had a smack up the back end at some point... Ding in rear panel.jpg This had just been bodged over with filler, so I repaired this with a chisel that I ground to shape out of some plastic Delrin rod... repairing ding.jpg with all the repair panels welded in by gas and spot welder, I just have an edge or two to blend in with the gas kit and I'll be able to plug weld that bracket back on. I've lined it up to the car with the mounting bracket from the chassis roller and bolted it back on to pull all the panels in flush... Ready for welding.jpg

Apr 2nd, 2012, 18:20	#78
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Unfortunately rear panels are not in production at the moment and I don't feel like taking 6 months out to develop the tooling to make them! So, it'll have to be 'make do and mend'. If I make decent repair panels, shot blast and then lead load seams it should last as well as a new panel. It seems all my usual stockists are out of acetylene gas just now, so while I'm waiting for some to be shipped from Germany I've started disassembling the bodged repairs to the boot floor... 001.jpg Looks like the car has had a smack up the rear on the drivers side too. More ropey repairs... 004.jpg

Apr 2nd, 2012, 18:56	#79
Tail Master Member Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Newton Abbot	When you said you were going to fit a new panel i did wonder if you had a secret supplier somewhere because mine allthough looks ok from the outside is starting to go from the inside and a new panel would make the job so much easier than the repairs it will need. Ah well maybe it can wait a bit longer......

Apr 2nd, 2012, 19:42	#80
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	The problem on mine is that with it having apparently had two shunts to the rear and as well as it being a difficult panel to access with a hammer and dolly, the force has stressed the flanges and let moisture in to rust it out too. One solution might be to replace the flange and part of the panel on the bottom edge and blend the rest into the radius at the bottom of the panel. A repair section like that wouldn't be too hard to make and that radius would absorb the heat from welding and give minimal warping. Also a good point to loose the join by blending in and polishing. A bit like I did on the LHS rear quarter bottom.

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