240 General: Tailgate/Wash/Wipe/Wiring Repair

[Paul240480]

It's very common for the rear wiper wiring to break up where it is fed through the tailgate hinges as many of us know. I repaired mine a while back and took a few photos. This method saves having to remove or disturb the gate hinges, or the tailgate itself - which is a two man job to lift I understand. It can be done by using props to support the gate whilst removing a hinge, but would not reccommend it, as if a pole slips you'll knacker the other hinge!

The result here is having a working rear wash/wipe, the finish is a bit ugly & may not be acceptable to all. There are other methods, but this worked for me

1) carefully ease back the roof liner, I found it easiest to start in the corner, then work along the rear & then along the off-side. (Photo shows N/S due to piccies being a last minute thought)


2) In the 'void' you will find a white plastic connector for the tailgate loom. Disconnect it. Just a wiggle & pull job.



3) Next look up into the void directly below the hinge. You'll see the two bolts that hold the hinge. Using 13mm socket undo these 2-3 turns only. This should free the wiring enough to allow you to pull it through from within the void & from within the tailgate pillar, removing the rear wiper wiring from the tailgate completely. One black wire will remain, I think this is an earth strap. This wire in my case is fine, so I left it in place. Dont forget to re-tighten the hinge bolts.





4) Now, in my case the roof lining is split along where it is stretched around its 'hanger' (this is the bit that may not be acceptable to those wanting 'perfection'). I fed the wires through this 'handy' split. Then join the 4 wires (all coulour coded) & insulate well, I used (small block connectors, you could solder them). Reconnect the push fit joiner.


You will be left with a small wire 'loop' which will be visible when the boot is shut & more so when it's open. But you will have a very very cheap fix. Since this I have done the same on the N/S, as those wires gave out too.

There may well be neater methods, if you know of one feel free to add to this thread. Replacement wiring looms are, of course available. Budget around a tenner a piece - Eurocarparts & Fleabay

Cheers

[Clifford Pope]

That's always been my method too. I know purists like to restore the proper wires through the hinge, but to me it seems stupid reinstating a flawed method which will certainly fail again after a few years.

What I tend to do is replace the wires one by one as they fail, until finally they are all routed externally in a loop.

[rtbcomp]

I did the same trick, but yours is a lot tidier as I used crimp connectors. The interior of my car is pretty well shot so I wasn't too concerned about aesthetics.

The wiring that failed on mine was someone else's previous repair.

[chesters6]

i did both of mine the second after i learnt from the first a little more tidy.
i just used the original connectors and cut the wire after them just long enough to solder to and shrink tube to and the same the other end
note in the original loom the heated window wires are infact a pair i guess they needed to be doubled up in area to pass through the hinge but still not heat up in use ,so long as you use a thicker bit of wire in the non hinge method its fine just to have one ,saves wriggling yet another wire through that narrow channel by th window

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by chesters6

,saves wriggling yet another wire through that narrow channel by th window

Feed one stiff wire through first, then tie all the others to it in a tidy bundle .

[chesters6]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

Feed one stiff wire through first, then tie all the others to it in a tidy bundle .

yup sussed that in the offside job

[940_Turbo]

Multimeter test lead wire is extremely fine stranded and flexible. I've found that if you use it to replace the bit through the hinge it doesn't seem to break. Maplins sell it by the metre.



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